Chains for hauling tractor

[ROUSTABOUT]

I prefer straps myself. Much easier to deal with and easier on the finish as well.

I'll tell you a true story about straps and chains. I was down in Homestead Florida, with a 40 cubic yd dump trailer, crew cab 4x4 3500 Dodge flatbed, cleaning up a hurricane. Dump was terrible, had a huge dozer to pull folks. I got stuck, all I had was a strap. That dozer snapped that strap like a rubber band on the local newspaper. Remembered we had some chains on an international that a boy from DeKalb drove down. We followed each other. He brought two skid steers. I went by the AF base where it was parked and got two chains. Hooked them together and wrapped tape around joint. For some unknown reason, one of them skid steers had a five gallon bucket of tape, clear packing tape. I also made a new lens for my busted headlight. That was some handy tape. Anyways, I got pulled out several times and I pulled others out several times with chain, no problem. The strap and chain question was answered. I have had a large track hoe with the tracks on a 45 deg angle, pulling all it could, to get a loaded concrete truck close enough to pour a slab, with a chain. Them straps say 10,000#, but that is max. Chain has a 4x safety factor. I guess you could put more straps. I know one fella hauls his tractor, one strap across top of bell housing, between dash and engine. Tractor and baler on trailer, towing the rake on rear of trailer.

 

[bcp]

An old rusty chain is usually better than an old frayed strap.

Bruce

 

[etpm]

I plan on one chain through a clevis on the draw bar and just ratchet straps on the front axle.

If you are going to transport you tractor on public highways your tie down plan sounds as if it is not safe. See this link:

for how to safely rig your tractor. There are many websites that explain rigging. Please make sure your tractor is tied down properly. My son borrowed my Yanmar YM2310 tractor and I checked the rigging before he left. He had one chain pulling straight forward and one straight back. I saw this and tugged on the front chain perpendicular to the chain, the same force encountered when going around a corner. I was able to move the tractor about 1 inch sideways just from me tugging on the chain hard. The trailer was wet. My demonstration convinced my son that he needed to correct the rigging. He would have had to anyway because I wasn't gonna let that tractor be trailered unsafely. Please make sure your tractor is rigged properly. It is easy to do and your tractor will be safe, especially if you need to make any sudden movements avoiding idiot drivers.
Eric

 

[bcp]

5400 WLL ratchet straps:

4 Inch Ratchet Straps | Heavy Duty

4 inch ratchet straps offer exceptional strength for heavy duty jobs. Available in a variety of colors and sizes. Custom straps also an option.

www.uscargocontrol.com

6670 WLL ratchet straps:

Heavy Duty Ratchet Straps | BlackLine Tie Down Straps

BlackLine is our own line of premium heavy duty ratchet straps - the strongest straps in the industry with the highest available working load limit.

www.uscargocontrol.com

Not tie-down straps, but just to show that there are stronger straps than the commonly seen ones.

Straps to 76,000 WLL

Semi Truck Recovery Strap | Heavy Duty Recovery Strap | USCC

Simplify semi truck recovery with straps that can recover vehicles and machinery up to 80,000 lbs. Made from heavy-duty nylon with reinforced eyes.

www.uscargocontrol.com

Straps to 134,000 WLL
Heavy Equipment Recovery Straps | Machinery Recovery Straps | USCC

Bruce

 

[Redlands Okie]

I would be comfortable with Grade 70 chain in 5/16. As mentioned above I also chain down all four corners using 4 chain binders. I do toss a strap or chain over the attachment on the rear. I do four corners because it fast and easy for my setup, and there is no need for me to even get on the trailor. I prefer to do more than possibly needed in case of a accident and fancy lawyers getting involved, its best to over do things.

They make straps that will work fine. Keep in mind a minor scratch on a chain does not matter. Just a little bit of frayed area on a strap can be a big issue. And the strap should never be located where it can rub on a corner or sharp edge, even a somewhat rounded corner. Under stress its amazing how easy straps will cut or break under such a situation.

One thing I see quite a bit of, make sure your hooks are attached in such a way that even if the chain or strap gets real loose that the hook still cannot come loose.

 

[bcp]

Interesting demonstration in favor of parallel straps instead of crossed straps.

Bruce

 

[5030]

Straps have their place as well as chains and binders. Being a retired (35 year) trucker, I used both, depending on the situation and you can very well cause a chain to fail if the chain is placed over an immovable edge with no chain protector under it and cinched down to the point where the link bends. Conversely, a strap over a sharp break without a strap protector under it ( we used rubber belting) will fail quickly.

One thing I don't like about pulling with a chain is, if it breaks the broken end comes at you like a bullet and could be fatal if you are in the line of fire. Snatch straps, on the other hand, just fail and don't turn into misles. Even today, I have both and use both depending on the application and I have a couple HD snatch straps as well.

 

[BruceS_55]

Thanks for all the input. This is exactly what I was wanting. I want to tow safely.

 

[Quickster2]

You can go to truckntow.com. I chain my Kioti DK45 and loader down with chains. I bought and use the chain protector sleeves doubled up to protect the tractor. I use Vulcan tie downs for the bucket. Grade 70 3/8" US made chain with Dura Bilt ratcheting chain binders all 4 corners. I don't want any issues if I ever get into an accident. My frequent tow is from Michigan to KY (500 miles) with my 25' Sure Trac gooseneck trailer. Don't skimp is all I can recommend.

 

[Willie B]

I need to purchase a chain to tie down my tractor when hauling it. The tractor is a TYM 2515h and weighs around 3000 lbs without the loader and close to 4000 with the loader. Will a 5/16 inch chain be sufficient or should I get 3/8 inch? The 5/16 inch yellow chromate chain has a load capacity of 4700 lbs and the 3/8 has a capacity of 6600 lbs. From the numbers I would think 5/16 will work unless I'm missing something like stress load while braking etc. Any ideas?

Dot requires 4 chains for the tractor, a fifth for the bucket. Experts will insist cross chaining is best, it isn't always practical. I haul a number of lighter tractors & automobiles. I also haul a 16000 LB backhoe & a 14000 LB dozer. I have 6 5/16 grade 70 chains 12' long & for the bigger loads same in 3/8".

In CDL weight ranges (over 26000 gross combined weight) my state has an obsessed truck inspection team. The formula for chain sizing is complicated, but 5/16 grade 70 transport chain is fine for your load. Using one chain looped through the drawbar would get you a fine in Vermont, there is risk of the tractor sliding sideways.

If you aren't absolutely sure of chain procedure, there are excellent You Tube videos, some done by truckers, others done by DOT officers.