Snow Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid?

   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #21  
The only problem - ordering on line. Can they be returned if not the correct size. How difficult would returning them be. I got my chains at Les Schwab - a local tire store chain here in the PNW. It was only a 12 mile drive. And no problems returning if the had not fit.
 
   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #22  
My tire chain expierence is fairly limited to a old ford 851 with double ring chains and a pair of Vbar chains for my 4x4 dump truck.

Double ring chains are almost useless in frozen gravel. Av bar or something of the same are more what you will want. I plowed in 2wd with my dump truck with highway tires and Vbar chains.

Im also looking for a set of tire chains for my tractor with turf tires. Im no so conserned about the snow/ice performance.
 
   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #23  
OK, you asked so here we go again myself and a few others have and use and believe in the ability of the "Euro"style chain.
There are posters that will say you don't need them, all I can say is that I have over the years used most every style of tire chain available.
From 4 link spaced street chains to 2 link space bar reinforced, including the so called duo-grip and even the big double ring chains.
On a frozen dirt/gravel driveway the OFA's, Aquiline Talons, TRYGG's studded chains can not be beat, you will have more traction then you do in the summer.
They are expensive but they will grip better then any thing else available, the traction for driving and stopping is excellent, also side hill traction including side grip is also excellent.
View attachment 623514View attachment 623515

The 2wd plowing was pushing around 16" of snow with that style of chain.

I have the diamond studded from tire chains.com on by RTV (front/rear). I should have some good feedback on my hills in about a month :). However I would also recommend diamond studded if you are on gravel. No reason not to have the best traction possible.

In re side hills, diamond studded should not slip. However you will not find me on side hills....
 
   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #24  
If looking for tractor tire chains consider looking at Skidder type chains.
 
   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #25  
I saw a video that one of the guys on this forum made. It was on putting chains on an LSXR4100 series tractor (same model I have), and it took him 3 hours to mount them on one side. IIRC, it went a lot faster on the other side when he took the air out of the tire...but then you need to jack up a 5000 lb tractor.

I HATE the things. It took me an hour of hard work to put chains on a Polaris UTV, but they work well once on. Likely the best option.

This will be my first year blowing snow with my new LS and hope I can get by without chains. I have little to no grade to deal with. I currently have an inquiry in at Kold Kutter for studs that screw into tires. I doubt they will be as good as chains but may be good enough for my needs...and much easier to install. My other thought is to put the studs on the rears and use chains on the front tires.

Like you, I see cost as secondary. My issue is wrestling with 100+ lbs of chain on each of those rear tires. Just to old to handle that. Even if the studs only last 3-4 years I will be OK with that. But I do not run my tractor on pavement and put less than 150 hrs a year on it.

I posted several pictures last year about how I install my tire chains, it is a method that removes most of the lifting and tugging.
I can mount a set of chains on 18.4-30 tires in less then half an hour for both.
Also the Euro style many manufactures want them to be installed a bit loose, enough to get a fist under the cross chains with NO tensioners.

Oosik, you wonder whether studded is sufficiently superior to V-bar to justify the price;
most definitely I have run both on hard packed snow, ice, gravel and paved roads.
There is no comparison the studded style Euro type chains will outperform and ride better then any style of traction chain available.
The last V-bar reinforced chains I ran were on two link spacing and the studded Aguiline were twice as effective.
I could stop on my steep driveway with a 2wd tractor and backup, with the v-bar it was iffy to stop without using the blade also and once stopped almost impossible to back up the tires would just spin and chew unless you went into high reverse and used tire speed.
I have switched completly to the studded Euro for my tractors and on the farm we have switched over half the tractors that get chained up over and the others as the ladder chains get beyond repairing. These tractors are used feed cows in outside feed lots all winter with heavy wagon loads with tractors from 60 hp to 125 hp.

To install;
1) lay the chains out traction side up
2) attach a rope to the chains and to the wheel/tire, I just tie the rope to the chain making a V to hang on the tread
3) drive forward pulling the chain up onto the tire
4) stop and arrange the chain evenly on the tire (a second person speeds this up considerably)
5) drive the chain on untill your fasteners are in a convenient location usually have way up the rear of the tire
6) fasten your fasteners and drive a bit if needed refasten
7) keep your fasteners the same distances on both sides, do not have one side tighter then the other
 

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   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Actually there is one reason not to have the best traction possible. Tuppence is tuppence. I think I might be able to find chains for $3,000 for my little 25 hp tractor, if I keep looking. I know I'm going to have to spend some serious money here, but the question is HOW serious.

I think I should put chains on front and rear. The rear is pretty obvious, but the front also seems important because I may be carrying snow down my hill in the FEL, so I'd be going downhill with weight out there in front (why I'm using a FEL is another story but feel free to ask). I'm certainly going to stay in 4WD in a low gear, and also will need to brake at the bottom as the slope continues all the way to the public road. Sound reasonable?

Obviously, you can't necessarily pick from every type of chain and fit the two tire sizes I have, which are 43X16.00-20 and 25X8.50-14. I'm looking at specific sellers and have not yet found somebody that sells studded chains for both. So far the best I'm finding is tirechainsrus who sells Aquiline MPC for $598.18 and Aquiline Talon for $847.18 to fit my rears, and nothing more aggressive than 2-link ladder chains for $168 to fit my fronts (which actually are on the Garden Tractor list). So I'd be around $750 or $1000 depending on which rear chain I pick. I would go $1000 if it would really make a difference -- would it?
 
   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #27  
My tire chain expierence is fairly limited to a old ford 851 with double ring chains and a pair of Vbar chains for my 4x4 dump truck.

Double ring chains are almost useless in frozen gravel. Av bar or something of the same are more what you will want. I plowed in 2wd with my dump truck with highway tires and Vbar chains.

Im also looking for a set of tire chains for my tractor with turf tires. Im no so conserned about the snow/ice performance.

IMHO, I don't think skidder, or "diamond" or "duo" type chains (i.e. chains that have links that connect the horizontal ladder "rungs") are as necessary on a turf tire, as there's no problem of the cross chains rungs falling between the tire lugs as they might on other tire types. Depends on how much you want to spend.
Yes, ladder type chains offer less sidehill stability, and maybe more bumpy ride; but the 2 link ladder type are smoother riding than the 4 link spaced ladder type.

Nobody has talked about snow chain tensioners: Needed or not needed?
Fancy spring type, bungee cords, baling twine?

I'm in the "I don't need them" camp...until I do.
 
   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #28  
The Talons will grip much better and may also be a heavier chain,
for your fronts some people have used the good atv chains as they come in the smaller sizes.
 
   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #29  
I don't care HOW/WHEN you mount a set of chains. I don't think you will ever consider it as one of the most fun jobs. I've done it in the late fall - when it was still warm outside. I've done it with a foot of snow on the ground. It's still a PITA.

It's akin to removing barbed wire from your rototiller or brush hog.
 
   / Chains for snow & ice -- what mistake is it most important to avoid? #30  
I don't care HOW/WHEN you mount a set of chains. I don't think you will ever consider it as one of the most fun jobs. I've done it in the late fall - when it was still warm outside. I've done it with a foot of snow on the ground. It's still a PITA.

Very true it's not fun, but neither is manual labor.
I've done both when it needed to be done and I would expect you have also. :drink:
 

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