Chains: Front or back?

   / Chains: Front or back? #1  

CobyRupert

Super Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
5,865
Location
Washington County, NY
Tractor
JD 5075E
I'm sure this has been discussed, but couldn't find.

Are tire chains best on front or rear tires?

I use FEL to push and scoop heavy snow that falls off the roof of the barn. The way the layout is, I'm pushing or scooping on a side slope, that's usually vey icy, and turning and taking the snow down the slope to push over a bank. A downhill trap.
Today it was almost impossible to not slide sideway on the ice, or turn (especially if I had lifted FEL with heavy snow). Plus the rear is a bit light with a loaded bucket.
Yes, more ballast would of helped. Tires are loaded (I think 750lbs ea), plus a 470 lb skidding winch on 3 pth (should of bought the 795 lb next size bigger!).
But, if you have to add one set, where would they be?

Same for my four-wheeler Polaris 700 ATV with plow. Where would you put one set of chains.

In both cases it seems chains on back wouldn't be worthwhile without weight.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #2  
I have "ice chains" on the front because that's what a buddy found for $300 on CL:laughing: The rear "ice chains" are $1400!! Traction wise, on packed snow/ice I'm fine. I think I'll settle for some 2 link regular "ladder" type chains for the rear, much easier on the wallet. The front chains give you good pulling & steering especially with a load in the bucket. I'd be leaning for all 4 on the ATV, they should be a lot less $$.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN3395.jpg
    DSCN3395.jpg
    308.5 KB · Views: 650
   / Chains: Front or back? #3  
There's been loads of discussion on this topic, many let not run chains alone on the front, others do and that works for them. I run chains on the rear only, and that works for me. Rear chains will cost more and they weigh more, so more work to install. Chains make a big difference.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #5  
Chain up the loaded rears first then add chains to the front if you still need them. The weight on the rears helps the chains bite into the ice. Even brand new not on sale rear ice chains are worth the price. You only need to slide into something you can't afford to hit once to spend way more then that.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #6  
I run chains on both because if I don't I end up with the front end not turning when I want or turning when I don't want it to. I tried plowing the last snow, about 14" and had to call a neighbor to pull me out and went down over the side of the fill because I just had chains on the rear. I don't think either would have happened if I had put the front chains on too. They are calling for more this weekend and I put the front chains on today.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #7  
I ran into the same thing with a neighbors driveway that slopes away.. I ended up using the rear brakes to help steer, the front tire just kept sliding and had no traction
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #8  
I ran into the same thing with a neighbors driveway that slopes away.. I ended up using the rear brakes to help steer, the front tire just kept sliding and had no traction

I use the split breaks to help steer quite a bit while plowing. My neighbor has a Kubota L2800 hydrostatic. Even though it has split brakes you can't use them to steer as they are on the same side and in front of the go pedal. She needs chains all around and to get her rears loaded. I told her her problem was she didn't have enough mass in her *****.:eek:
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #9  
Gosh, reading all this makes me wonder how I ever plowed snow for the last 40+ years with a two wheel drive tractor. Rear chains only for me!
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #10  
Gosh, reading all this makes me wonder how I ever plowed snow for the last 40+ years with a two wheel drive tractor. Rear chains only for me!

Been there and done that. :)
The same tractor in four wheel drive is a whole different level of ability especially when your off hard roads in the woods etc. Having had a four wheel drive tractor I would never buy another two wheeled drive unless it was a second or third machine in a line up with haying to do or the like.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #11  
Been there and done that. :)
The same tractor in four wheel drive is a whole different level of ability especially when your off hard roads in the woods etc. Having had a four wheel drive tractor I would never buy another two wheeled drive unless it was a second or third machine in a line up with haying to do or the like.

I'm not doubting the advantages of MFD. But tractors have been around for over 100 years, and just within the last 25 or 30 has MFD become a 'necessity', or even commonplace. Most of the trouble TBN owners get into with tractors has less to do with how the machine is equipped than how it is operated. Bring on the flames.......
 
Last edited:
   / Chains: Front or back? #12  
I'm not doubting the advantages of MFD. But tractors have been around for over 100 years, and just within the last 205 or 30 has MFD become a 'necessity', or even commonplace. Most of the trouble TBN owners get into with tractors has less to do with how the machine is equipped than how it is operated. Bring on the flames.......

You'll get no flames from me on that sound opinion.
 
   / Chains: Front or back?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
..My neighbor has a Kubota L2800 hydrostatic...... She needs chains all around and to get her rears loaded. I told her her problem was she didn't have enough mass in her *****.:eek:

Wow! Does your wife know about this? Is this a "Fifty Shades of Orange" kind of thing? :thumbsup:

I'm not doubting the advantages of MFD. But tractors have been around for over 100 years, and just within the last 205 or 30 has MFD become a 'necessity', or even commonplace. Most of the trouble TBN owners get into with tractors has less to do with how the machine is equipped than how it is operated. Bring on the flames.......

...butt seriously... No objections. Also consider the light weight of the modern popular compact or sub-compact tractor to the 30-50Hp tractor of yesteryear. Heck, the 100hp 2wd JD4230 I grew up with was probably 14,000lbs and had no problems plowing (bucketing) snow . That weight buys ALOT of traction.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #15  
I too plowed snow for many years with a two wheel drive tractor and did fine. Only for 20 years though. If I had the tractor I had then, 74 HP Massey, I still would be doing well, but I don't, I have a subcompact that would fit in a pickup bed instead. Be glad you have a farm tractor instead of a sub. Or flat instead of hills.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #16  
I too plowed snow for many years with a two wheel drive tractor and did fine. Only for 20 years though. If I had the tractor I had then, 74 HP Massey, I still would be doing well, but I don't, I have a subcompact that would fit in a pickup bed instead. Be glad you have a farm tractor instead of a sub. Or flat instead of hills.

42 HP Case 885 (David Brown). Not all flat, but not as steep as some, either. Plowed for years and years with a Deere 3020 and for a few with a 4030. I'd upgrade to a tractor with a factory cab and 2WD before a 4WD open station. 1/4 mile driveway and no cab is getting pretty old, but I'm too cheap to make the leap to anything more modern.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #17  
42 HP Case 885 (David Brown). Not all flat, but not as steep as some, either. Plowed for years and years with a Deere 3020 and for a few with a 4030. I'd upgrade to a tractor with a factory cab and 2WD before a 4WD open station. 1/4 mile driveway and no cab is getting pretty old, but I'm too cheap to make the leap to anything more modern.

I had a 880 David Brown with Canadian ring chains so been there done that.
The cab vs. the four wheel drive is an excellent question. I don't know if it has to be a factory cab. My soft cab can be annoying opening and closing the door but one time when the snow comes up off the plow and hits the cab instead of your face makes up for a lot of door manipulation. The choice you give , 2WD factory with factory cab vs. 4WD open station I'd go with you as long as the rears are loaded and good ice chains are on the rears. But if it was my check book I'd buy the 4WD open station then add an aftermarket soft cab.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #18  
42 HP Case 885 (David Brown). Not all flat, but not as steep as some, either. Plowed for years and years with a Deere 3020 and for a few with a 4030. I'd upgrade to a tractor with a factory cab and 2WD before a 4WD open station. 1/4 mile driveway and no cab is getting pretty old, but I'm too cheap to make the leap to anything more modern.
I remember wishing for a 1/4 mi driveway, ours was 9/10 of a mile long and by the time you plowed around the circle and around to the shop you had plowed over a mile. Bought a soft side cab and it did not fit so it was all in the open.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #19  
I have rear chains only...of course, they're for the tractor I just traded off!
Anyway, the rear drive train is much more robust then the front axle. IMHO, I'd chain the rears only and learn how to use the split brakes to maintain steering. In fact, when I started using chains, I normally didn't use or need the front wheel assist.
 
   / Chains: Front or back? #20  
Rear chains and use the split brakes. On that previously mentioned hydro Kubota L2800 with the split brakes on the same side as the hydro pedal. Here is a tip she can try IF she has cruise control lever. (it was an option, but a very necessary option in my opinion).

Here is the technique: Get the tractor moving with the hydro pedal, and push the cruise handle up with your left hand and you can take your right foot off of the hydro pedal and now can "touch up" your line of travel with the split brakes.

Keep your left hand either on or near the cruise handle to slap it backwards to release the hydro pedal. You can try steering a little with your left hand on the wheel, but don't forget that cruise lever when it comes time to slow down or stop. Because the split brakes are not locked together now, the cruise lever will not be automatically be pushed back by hitting the brakes. That only works when they are locked together.

This does work, I have done it. Now to be sure my Kioti with the split brakes on the left side is one heck of a lot more convenient, but this can work for the standard L Kubota, if it has cruise.

It is either that or learn how to do the "Kubota Shuffle" by setting turned to the right in the seat, and getting your left foot over on the right side of that darn transmission tunnel to operate those brakes.. Maybe works for some people, but I never could master it well. The cruise thing will work though.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

84" HYD CURVED LOG GRAPPLE (A52706)
84" HYD CURVED LOG...
1999 TRANSCRAFT FLAT BED 48FT TRAILER (A59905)
1999 TRANSCRAFT...
AUCTION STARTS HERE @ 9AM (A60429)
AUCTION STARTS...
2003 Komatsu WA250-3MC Articulated Wheel Loader (A56857)
2003 Komatsu...
2021 CATERPILLAR 299D3 SKID STEER (A60429)
2021 CATERPILLAR...
2019 CATERPILLAR 239D3 SKID STEER (A60429)
2019 CATERPILLAR...
 
Top