Chains Chains or straps?

[azop]

Picking up my CT230 tomorrow and I got a great deal on a 16ft steel floor trailer. The dealer suggested chains and binders, but I'm leaning towards decent straps instead. The *most* I would drive this would be 30 miles round trip (highway).

What would you guys suggest? I've not used chains and binders, but I'm sure it's not hard to figure out.

 

[Dmace]

Chains on the tractor, straps on the attachments. :thumbsup:

 

[Canada_CT230]

Big rigs use lots of straps for everything. Just beware that straps can stretch when wet and can work loose. Then again, when I used to move a skid steer around, chains could work loose too...just not as often.

I moved my tractor 70 miles when I bought it using straps. No problems. Just as tight when I took them off as when I put them on.

I think application is probably the key.

 

[94BULLITT]

Straps, Just check them after the first 15 miles because they stretch. Strap will not scratch the tractor like a chain, they are easier to use, and they are safer. Load the tractor on the trailer backwards. Hook the straps around the through were the drawbar hooks on the tractor and around the frame up close to the brush guard. A set of axle straps make it easier to hook up and they are nice for hauling a car. Summit Racing SUM-G7965 - Summit Racing® Vehicle Tie-Downs - Overview - SummitRacing.com Tractor supply usually has them or a local trailer dealer should. If you decide to go with straps be sure you latch them shut. That helps lock them down. If they are left open they may not hold.

 

[Grayson Klassen]

Sold my old Ford 3000 and had to deliver it 30 miles or so. I used straps for everything and had no problems. Note above post back the tractor onto the trailer I drove mine on and it got a little scary when the deck tipped as I backed it off.

 

[WM75Guy]

Chains on the tractor, straps on the attachments. :thumbsup:

That's the way I go also. As both my tractors weigh less than 10,000 pounds I use two 3/8" Grade 70 transport chains with ratchet binders, using the NH attachment points on the frame and the drawbar. Two inch 5,000 pound straps across the FEL and any attachment. These must be lowered all the way down to meet the requirements of 49 CFR 393.128 & 393.130, USDOT Cargo Securement Rules.

 

[galaxie428]

I typically use a combination of both but I recall reading on here somewhere, may not have been in the BC forum, that laws require the use of chains in some states to haul stuff. You might want to check your states laws.

Of course 30 miles isn't far to go and the chances of you getting stopped are probably pretty slim.

 

[jimmyj]

Around here chains are the law. Chains for the tractor, straps for the attachments. Don't know your area though.

 

[MMagis]

This has been discussed and argued more times than I can remember. Many people will tell you that they have never had problems with straps and that’s true. But, as long as the ride goes smooth they wouldn’t have had problems if they had used nothing. What counts is how they hold in an accident. There are good straps out there, but those 10000 lb 2” straps are NOT them. Obviously any chain needs to be good quality as well. I like the simplicity of straps and have used them, but I feel a lot better with chains and binders. As mentioned, you need to check the laws in your area.

 

[Sabretooth]

Chains on the tractor, straps on the attachments. :thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

Never a good idea to just get by! always hope for best anticpate the worst

The other day I brought a BB for my 230 it fit in bed w/tail shut I strapped it in heading home a older man past me on the road a 2 lane 60mph highway guess to get in front me (He started to Move over then puts blinker on just a Texas lane change) and hits brakes to go into shopping center I had to slam on mine not to hit him I will tell you if it wasnt strapped I would've kissed my bed goodbye maybe worse.
I drove equipment large and small for a company back in Ny going up and down east coast. It is the Only way I travel I just wish others I see did the same I use 5/16" 70gr +lever binders for tractor and 2" 10k straps for any attachments(Thats over kill but I got such agreat price on em')
I know some like the rachet binders I just do not takes to long then if you check load down the road and need to tighten you have to go through hole garbage again.

 

[20 20]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the PROPER straps, just make sure of wear points. I have used straps for years with out 1 issue. Make sure everything is tight, check load often, and make sure the starps are not rubbing on something that will cause a tear. Most issue come from loose bindings, or not checking the load after it has had a chance to shift some.

 

[94BULLITT]

When you load the tractor always load down hill. Also I do not know what kind of trailer you have but some the ramps have contact points on the to hit the ground to keep the back of the trailer from going down and the back of the truck from going off of the ground. If your ramps do not have those you should put some wood blocks under the back corners of the trailer to keep it from picking the truck up.

 

[kc5sii]

Either works just fine. Just don't mix them. In other words, never hook a chain to a strap. The slingshot effect can do serious damage. Kind of like never oiling an O2 bottle. Just don't do it.

Dave

 

[Dmace]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the PROPER straps, just make sure of wear points. I have used straps for years with out 1 issue.

So how many major accidents have you been in where you had a tractor strapped to a trailer with just straps...?

I rode a motorcycle for years with no helmet with no issues but I guarantee one accident could have done plenty of damage that a helmet would have prevented. Prepare for the accident, not for the ride!

 

[bearcreek paul]

I brought my tractor from ct. 170 mi chains and straps,also like the others said check them after your on the road for 15 min to see nothing is loose.

 

[boggen]

small light weight stuff i will use straps. heavy stuff i will break out the chains.

the time i don't prepare for the worst. is when it hits me every time.

and at very min, i have to slam on the brakes at least once. because some numb nut cuts directly in front of me and does a quick braking and turns in some place.

if it not someone slamming on the brakes in front of me. then it would be having to get over on the shoulder of the road. and hit the worst possible spot with all the pot holes and bumps.

i honestly don't like straps myself. i mean there nice and easy but at times they can be as much of a pain than chains and binders/ratchets. and i have had them come loose, but not completely fall off. but pretty close to falling off. and the slack came from most of the time, is the load shifting and moving.

recently went and picked up some culvert pipe for the farm. mom asked me to take the back roads. I just laughed and shocked my head no. back roads = smaller lanes, very bad shoulders, and majority of the back roads at least this time of year are all cracked and bumpy. for me it was a lot safer taking the main roads and highway. due to less things that would cause the load (culverts) from trying to shift some how on me and straps coming loose.

granted there is more traffic to deal with. but as long as i held to the "stop lights" and 4 way stops. i was in better shape.

 

[Storm56]

Chains and binders hands down on my tractors. Straps OK for attachments. Check for tightness after a few miles.

 

[TRR]

Chains last longer than straps because straps get abraded (sp? i.e. cut) where they go over sharp corners. Also, you probably should use transport grade chains. I know the DOT requires transport grade chains (G70) and a certain number of chains based on weight. But, if anyone can tell me why 3/8" proof coil chain rated at 2650# WL wouldn't be safe for a 2000# tractor I'd be interested in the answer.

 

[Dmace]

But, if anyone can tell me why 3/8" proof coil chain rated at 2650# WL wouldn't be safe for a 2000# tractor I'd be interested in the answer.

Because when that 2000lb tractor is in motion (ie: accident, hard braking), the momentum makes that 2000lb tractor a 4000lb force on the chains.

 

[IXLR8]

Chains last longer than straps because straps get abraded (sp? i.e. cut) where they go over sharp corners. Also, you probably should use transport grade chains. I know the DOT requires transport grade chains (G70) and a certain number of chains based on weight. But, if anyone can tell me why 3/8" proof coil chain rated at 2650# WL wouldn't be safe for a 2000# tractor I'd be interested in the answer.

F=ma
If the tractor was not moving... you would be fine. The faster you start/stop, the higher the force. An abrupt move or accident at 40mph the force that the 2000# tractor would create would easily exceed the rating on the 2650# chains.