Chainsaw 101 for novices!

   / Chainsaw 101 for novices! #31  
You are living right! Can't really find it let alone buy it here... and it won't be 2.12!

Makes up for the chiggers and ticks in the summer.:)
 
   / Chainsaw 101 for novices! #32  
Makes up for the chiggers and ticks in the summer.:)
You have a point... I might pay an extra few nickels a gallon if it means no chiggers and ticks 'round here!
 
   / Chainsaw 101 for novices! #33  
We used Stabil Marine Ethanol Formula, which is blue. Now called Stabil 360 Marine.

We always used the "storage dose" which is double the regular usage.

STA-BIL® 360* Marine for Boats & More



But the standard fuel stabilizer states it stabilizes fuel for up to 24 months instead of 12.

STA-BIL® Brand Fuel Stabilizer for Gasoline-Powered Equipment


You are right Garandman. I just went out and looked at the color (The new jug is Blue) use to be green. I don't pay attention well as I get older:) Hopefully this info. will help many folks with their fuel problems.

David
 
   / Chainsaw 101 for novices! #34  
"Today I discovered NAPA has premixed non-ethanol premium 2-cycle gas for under $18 a gallon."
And to think I was complaining a couple years ago about $4.00/gal. for gas.

Here's one for all the chainsaw Novices that's not sitting around waiting for Santa>(Not sure what Novices really means)
I see a men's clothes commercial on TV today showing a big He-Man warring $300.00 boots, $100.00 shirt, $200.00 Carhart jacket, starting a $400.00 chainsaw, like the manual says> place the saw firmly on flat ground, firmly place foot in the front trigger handle, firmly place hand on the top handle, firmly pull starter cord with other hand. How many chainsaw novices here firmly start there saw like that, anyone> can I have a show hands?
Well how do I start my XP550 chainsaw? Good question glad you ask, I just grab the darn thing and crank it, and if I'm cranking more than 10 time's, I start speaking in tongues, I just wish I had an interpreter.
 
   / Chainsaw 101 for novices! #35  
:eek: <raises hand> :eek:
Except for the big He-Man warring $300.00 boots, $100.00 shirt, $200.00 Carhart jacket part ;)
 
   / Chainsaw 101 for novices! #36  
:eek: <raises hand> :eek: Except for the big He-Man warring $300.00 boots, $100.00 shirt, $200.00 Carhart jacket part ;)

And thinks he's "too experienced" to wear safety chaps or face/eye protection.lol

To the OP, that's a nice saw! You should enjoy it for years to come. I'm like you, I wore out my factory chains and tossed them and upgraded. Haven't ported any of my saws yet though, just never got around to it. I have a MS260 and an MS440 magnum and I'm always grabbing the smaller, lighter saw.
 
   / Chainsaw 101 for novices! #37  
And thinks he's "too experienced" to wear safety chaps or face/eye protection.lol

To the OP, that's a nice saw! You should enjoy it for years to come. I'm like you, I wore out my factory chains and tossed them and upgraded. Haven't ported any of my saws yet though, just never got around to it. I have a MS260 and an MS440 magnum and I'm always grabbing the smaller, lighter saw.

I've heard the ported saw guys say they'd rather run a ported 50cc saw (like your 260) than a stock 70cc (your 440). Given the power difference stock, that's hard to believe, but those guys certainly can make a saw scream. There's a guy near me that's well regarded for port work. Maybe someday when I've got $250 in the saw budget again, I'll see what he can do to my ms460.
 
   / Chainsaw 101 for novices!
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Yes, and the well-dressed gentleman sawyer remains perfectly clean as he works, unlike those of us who get covered in wood chips, oil, and dirt from hauling wood.

I got some Sta-bil 360 marine, so maybe I can avoid using much of my $18/gal. juice. Thanks for all the various advice posted. Weight was one reason I got the Echo- with its magnesium case, it's a fairly light saw for being a 50cc and 20", but still, I understand the idea of grabbing a lighter, smaller saw.
 
   / Chainsaw 101 for novices! #39  
I guess I do start it like the manual says, don't know for sure, cause I've never read it. Except I don't do the part about firmly placing hand on the top handle, I place my hand on the case. IMHO holding the top handle when pull starting stresses (and eventually rips) the rubber mounts that connect the handle to the saw more than anything else. That is the handle is not directly, err..solidly connected to the saw (At least on more modern saws, or at least on my Huskys.)
 
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