Chainsaw adjustment

[Rat Rod Mac]

I have a Stihl 024 chainsaw I bought new 20 years ago and it still runs fine until recently. Ran good last fall when I put it away. Got it out yesterday and it would not idle at all and even when it was revved up would surge ( rev up then down then up slighty ). Thought it might be the gas since it sat all winter. Bought a gallon of 89 octane with a small bottle of oil and a new plug and air filter. Ran a little better, but now I think I need to go back to the original carburator settings and start over with the carb. adjustments. Does anyone here know how to adjust these carbs? High speed jet, Low speed jet and idle. Thanks. RRM

 

[smstonypoint]

The Stihl web site has online manuals for a lot of saws, but not the 024. The manuals for other saws may help. The site includes a link allowing you to order printed manuals.

STIHL Incorporated USA -- Information -- Manufacturing the World's Number One Selling Brand of Chain Saws

 

[amaxwell]

You might also check to make sure the plastic fuel lines have no cracks: or that it is not getting extra air from a bad gasket.

Alton

 

[Gator6x4]

I have a Stihl 024 chainsaw I bought new 20 years ago and it still runs fine until recently. Ran good last fall when I put it away. Got it out yesterday and it would not idle at all and even when it was revved up would surge ( rev up then down then up slighty ). Thought it might be the gas since it sat all winter. Bought a gallon of 89 octane with a small bottle of oil and a new plug and air filter. Ran a little better, but now I think I need to go back to the original carburator settings and start over with the carb. adjustments. Does anyone here know how to adjust these carbs? High speed jet, Low speed jet and idle. Thanks. RRM

I will try. Adjust the idle screw in until the engine will run at idle. Now turn the low speed adjusting screw in until the engine RPM's start to drop. Now back the screw out until the engine runs smoothly. Now hold the throttle wide open and turn the high speed adjusting screw in until engine RPM's start to decrease, now back the adjusting screw out until the engine obtains maximum RPM's. By listening to the engine you can hear the "Sweet" spot as you are backing the adjusting screw out. You will probably have to readjust the idle and low speed high speed a couple of times to get it right.

 

[MikeD74T]

What Gator said and empty the tank & run it dry when you're not going to use it for a while. Gasohol is reap crap in small engines. MikeD74T

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I would check your tank filter. For a few bucks just replace it actually on a saw of that vintage. As someone else said your fuel lines can crack or they get so soft and kink or collapse stopping the fuel.
Next thing if you try some of the mentioned adjustments and it is still not running right then take the carb off. Drop the diaphragm screw on the bottom of the carb. You will find a little mylar or rubber diaphragm in there. Carefully take it out noting which side was down and which direction it came out. More than likely some crud is in there. Wipe it out with a clean cloth. If you try to spray it out with carb cleaner keep your face away from it. That stuff is NO fun in the eyes.
Usually the fun part is getting the linkage to the throttle hooked up as well as the fuel line.
You mentioned using the high octane gas. I always use the high octane in my saws, wood splitter and chipper and even my Hemi dodge. These little engines run better on the good stuff I think.

 

[sms0000]

Probably needs a good freshen-up, clean carb/jets, check/replace piston & rings and all new gaskets/lines, new fuel filter in tank. Should cost a helluva lot less than buying a new one....that is if your handy and can DIY. It'll be good for another 20 or so .

 

[arrow]

Surging is a differential mismanagement of fuel/air mix that can include exhaust flow. lets start with the simplest stuff first. Also. right now, do not attempt to change any needle screw settings unless someone borrowed the saw and may have messed with them. 1. Change gas. 2. If that's been done, blow out or replace air filter or see if saw runs fine w/o filter. (Do not use saw w/o filter as this is just a diagnostic test) 3. Remove muffler and clean out spark arrester plate. (largest symtom of this is saw would run for a short while and then shut down and restart and run fine after cooling and then repeat a shut down) After that is attempted then I'd check things like fuel filters and integrity of gas lines and spark strength. I doubt you have an air leak at carb base. As far as settings, most saw use the highspeed setting for upper rpm management but this setting is also used for acceleration smoothness. If saw bogs at triiger press, that is considered a highspeed setting arena even though problem starts at low rpm's where you would think it may be low speed. Also, for the sake of longevity, do not run saw at highest rpm setting. Back it down until you hear the engine starting to 4 stroke. ( you'll know the sound). If it were me, I wouldn't be so quick to mess with the screws right now until other stuff is looked at as described above. You have seemed to take care of most already with exception of cleaning out muffler and spark strength. Also, be sure to use recommended octane settings form manufacturer. There has been much discussion about chainsaws and octane and consensous is all over the map. When it doubt, use the MR.

 

[pat32rf]

I keep having mechanics tell me that the regular gas may contain alcohol/methanol, but the hi-test never does. The alcohol is murder on some of the plastic/rubber carb parts.
I'd check the spark arresting filter before messing with the carb, just went thru the same problems with my 026.
Finally took it to the dealer, who explained that after 20yrs of use, the compression might be starting to go and I should expect future problems

 

[RobertN]

024's are GREAT saws. I have my Dad's here, and am rebuilding an 024 Super.

I have found, especially after sitting, the gas line will turn to mush. On my Dad's saw, it simply fell apart. The saw will not get enough gas.

The fuel filter can get gummed up. This is an older, 80's saw. I would replace both the fuel line and the fuel filter.

Saws, not just this one, will run odd if the impulse line gets old or cracked. The impulse line goes from the carb to the crankcase; it is what works with the carb to "pump" the gas.

There should be a screen on the muffler. If that spark arrester screen gets dirty, the saw can not breath; it "clogs up" the muffler.

The other thing is, the crank seals tend to go on these saws as they age...

And, of course, the carb can gunk up.

I would:
- replace the fuel line and filter.
- check the impulse line(have to remove top cover, snakes by the carb down to the crankcase
- clean the muffler screen
- reset the mixture screw to factory setting

Try to run it then. If you adjust the mixture screws, they should only need minor adjustment.

If that does not help, try a carb rebuild.

Otherwise, it will need a compression, pressure, and vacuum test done to check the rings and the crank seals.

Stihl carries parts for that saw. So does Bailey's. Service manuals are available on the web for $15-20.

These are great saws. Expensive to replace; the current equivilant would be a $500 MS260.

Oh, and aboristsite is like the TBN of chainsaws; an amazing wealth of knowledge. A search for "024" over ther will give you all kinds of info on that saw, and how to repair it.
- put fresh gas in; premium gas and premium Stihl oil

 

[RobertN]

The 024 is the same family as the 026/260, and shares many parts.

The Stihl web site has online manuals for a lot of saws, but not the 024. The manuals for other saws may help. The site includes a link allowing you to order printed manuals.

STIHL Incorporated USA -- Information -- Manufacturing the World's Number One Selling Brand of Chain Saws

 

[Chilly807]

If the saw is pushing 20 years old, you're likely due for a carb rebuild and maybe crank seal replacement. Usually leaking crank seals will give "surging" effect, too lean fuel-air mixture. Sometimes if you tip the saw on it's side, the rpm will change, good indication of crank seal problems. Running it with leaky crank seals will eventually lead to a scored cylinder and piston, since the lean mixture doesn't have enough cooling effect on the cylinder and piston.

If it ran ok when you put it away, you're wasting your time fiddling with the carb screws, those aren't the problem.

Unless you can do the work yourself, take it into a decent Stihl dealer for an estimate. If it's only a carb rebuild, you should be looking at about a hundred bucks or less out the door. If it's crank seals, you may want to consider a new saw. Dismantling the whole saw to replace the seals gets expensive. I've done quite a few over the years, but not an 024.

My 2 cents

Chilly

 

[Rat Rod Mac]

Thanks everyone for your replies. Took the saw apart yesterday and replaced the fuel filter and line and like I said before the air cleaner, spark plug and gas. I used 89 octane ( bought a gallon , but I think I will buy another one this time go with 93 octane ). Took the muffler apart and cleaned it. Put it all back together and set the carb. settings back to where they were at the beginning. Fired right up and with a little bit of adjustment the ole girl now runs like a new one. Spent the afternoon sawing away. Thank everyone one of you for your help and assistant. Life is good. RRM

 

[FredH]

One of my 041's had a similar problem . Rebuilt the carb , new air and fuel filter in tank , even tried switching carbs with newer 041 , No Change .

When switching back to original carb , dropped 1 of the nuts down around the side of carb , which ended up slipping past and under the shield . So had to take that off and behold !!! I see a piece of gasket material sticking out from under the manifold . Pulled manifold and sure enough gasket had about a 3/4" blow out on 1 side . Made new gasket out of some high temp gasket material and darn saw still runs like new .

This is the same saw that 20+ years ago I had to take back to the Stihl dealer in a paper sack when I skidded a log over it . New Bar , couple of new and used body parts , about 30 minutes putting it all back together , then we went behind saw shop and it started on 1'st pull .

Ironically , Saw shop made at least 2 sales that day because of what happened , as there were quite a few people in that day for a sale going on and when the witnessed my saw going from a paper sack back to the beast they are , it sold them on the durability of Stihl .

Fred H.

 

[Kubota 2350]

Ironically , Saw shop made at least 2 sales that day because of what happened , as there were quite a few people in that day for a sale going on and when the witnessed my saw going from a paper sack back to the beast they are , it sold them on the durability of Stihl .

Fred H.

Your right, you can't beat the Stihl quality.

 

[Chilly807]

I was always a Husqvarna fan until I owned a couple of Stihls, now I think Stihl would get the nod if I was ever to buy a new saw. I try to pick up something decent used, and either repair or rebuild it. The fleet right now stands at a 242 and 262 XP Husky, and an 023 and 044 Stihl, all older saws. The small ones do the felling and limbing, the bigger ones do the bucking and bigger stuff.

Both the 262 and the 044 remind me of something that should be running nitromethane for fuel, particularly the 044. Incredible power and cutting speed.

Chilly

 

[arrow]

I was always a Husqvarna fan until I owned a couple of Stihls, now I think Stihl would get the nod if I was ever to buy a new saw. I try to pick up something decent used, and either repair or rebuild it. The fleet right now stands at a 242 and 262 XP Husky, and an 023 and 044 Stihl, all older saws. The small ones do the felling and limbing, the bigger ones do the bucking and bigger stuff.

Both the 262 and the 044 remind me of something that should be running nitromethane for fuel, particularly the 044. Incredible power and cutting speed.

Chilly

262 one of my favorite pro saws. It had a lighter piston assembly and would rev like the dickens. If you had a light touch as opposed to trying to bully the saw down and kept a sharp chain, weren't much that would beat it in its power to weight class. The newer 357XP is supposed to be similar.

 

[JRobyn]

Found a new trick to help keep all the little 2-cycles running better - All of the gas you can buy in most major metro areas contains ethanol - it is required by the EPA. The ethanol is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture from the air, etc., and the resulting compounds cause damage and corrosion inside the itty-bitty 2-cycle carbs. But outside the metros, you can still buy plain gasoline. Many of the stations around us in TN advertise that they have "no ethanol" fuel. So I make a point to use non-ethanol fuel in my 2-cycle mix can. Haven't had any fuel/carb problems since, despite leaving fuel in some of them over the winter (knock, knock). I also religiously use Stabil in every tank of mix.

- Jay

 

[AlbertaDan]

I have a Stihl 024 chainsaw I bought new 20 years ago and it still runs fine until recently. Ran good last fall when I put it away. Got it out yesterday and it would not idle at all and even when it was revved up would surge ( rev up then down then up slighty ). Thought it might be the gas since it sat all winter. Bought a gallon of 89 octane with a small bottle of oil and a new plug and air filter. Ran a little better, but now I think I need to go back to the original carburator settings and start over with the carb. adjustments. Does anyone here know how to adjust these carbs? High speed jet, Low speed jet and idle. Thanks. RRM

I may a little too late on this but before you start re-seeting the carbs try to celan them out first. My brother in law had a mower that did exactly the same. Let it sit all winter and it wouldnt run in the spring. New gas didn't help at all. When i took the mower apart found all the aprts were gummed up with varnish from the old gas. When i cleaned the carb it ran just like new.

Unfortunately i can't remeber what i used to clean it with. I think i used a mixture of different things. A different times of course to avoid creating some toxic chemical mixture.

 

[varmint]

The statements about ethanol in gas are right on. I spoke with an experienced outboard engine repair guy on Maryland's Eastern Shore (lots of boats over there) who's about to close up his shop due to endless problems with gasohol and "open" fuel storage systems that absorb moisture and cause repeat problems. He fixes 'em, then a couple of weeks later fixes 'em again, and so on, until he doesn't have time for any regular work, and the customer are mad as ****. He said that only aviation gas is alcholol free around here, and the fuel distributors dump the alcohol into the underground tanks after delivery, since they have problems too.

I've had lots of problems with plastic fuel system parts, carbs and such the last couple of years, so I pour the gas out and run the engines dry every time I shut them off for more than a few days. Seems to work, but what a hassle. I complained about swollen fuel tank caps, and the manuf. said there was nothing they could do right now, just don't leave fuel in there!