Chainsaw chain sharpening.......

[terryknight]

i have one of these....

https://www.amazon.com/Depth-Gauge-Chainsaw-Groove-Cleaner/dp/B076KMH8GS

take them down to .030 - .035 ish. hit the rakes every couple times i sharpen

 

[Motorboatin]

I bought one of these a few weeks ago. I was skeptical but thought it would be good for touching up the chain in the woods. It works great and takes only a few minutes so I bought another one for my 3/8 chains

 

[CobyRupert]

More than one woodcutter has told me they buy chain by the foot and replace rather than sharpen. Claim they loose money spending time sharpening that could be spent cutting. I can't argue since I can't cut enough wood to make a living either way.

???
Other than being extremely wasteful and pricey, don't they sharpen (or replace) chain every couple tank refills? So wouldn't that be a few times a day?

I'm pretty sure that I can sharpen a chain faster than taking the cover off, removing old chain, correctly counting out the right length of new chain (double checking, so counting multiple times), then breaking it on the reel, reassembling it as a loop (rivet?) and putting new loop back on saw.

As far as the rakers, they are something that need to be check and taken down a few times over the chains life. Probably more often, but I use the same philosophy as trimming the hedges or bushes, or getting a haircut : Infrequently, but drastically!

..but hang on next time you use the saw! It'll kick like a mule! Or pull like an ox.

It's funny when guys argue about the cutting power of one saw versus another, or the effect of this sharpener, or chain versus another; with no mention of the rakers.
With the rakers lowered, it's night versus day on how much a chain can cut. Where the saw dust (chips) is like matchsticks, to the point where the saw really pulls or can run out of power if you let it bite to much.

Don't most chains have a wear bar at the back of the tooth that gives good indication that you might be getting to the end of its life?

 

[CobyRupert]

I bought one of these a few weeks ago. I was skeptical but thought it would be good for touching up the chain in the woods. It works great and takes only a few minutes so I bought another one for my 3/8 chains

View attachment 608500

That's all I've ever used (well, the older, more basic versions of round file guides).

I've recently splurged on the stump vice also shown in the picture, instead of resting saw on a work bench or truck tailgate. Very handy in getting a consistent file angle.

 

[ericm979]

On the saws I use for felling and wood cutting I file the rakers progressively. The depth gets greater as the tooth is filed away, which keeps the tooth at the same angle so it's cutting the same amount of wood. If you do a constant .025 or whatever, the effective depth will be less when the tooth has been filed short.

Husky's roller filling tool has a progressive depth gauge. They also make a standalone progressive gauge.

I think some guys file the rakers down to make an "aggressive" chain when the real problem is the teeth aren't all that sharp.

 

[4570Man]

???
Other than being extremely wasteful and pricey, don't they sharpen (or replace) chain every couple tank refills? So wouldn't that be a few times a day?

I'm pretty sure that I can sharpen a chain faster than taking the cover off, removing old chain, correctly counting out the right length of new chain (double checking, so counting multiple times), then breaking it on the reel, reassembling it as a loop (rivet?) and putting new loop back on saw.

As far as the rakers, they are something that need to be check and taken down a few times over the chains life. Probably more often, but I use the same philosophy as trimming the hedges or bushes, or getting a haircut : Infrequently, but drastically!

..but hang on next time you use the saw! It'll kick like a mule! Or pull like an ox.

It's funny when guys argue about the cutting power of one saw versus another, or the effect of this sharpener, or chain versus another; with no mention of the rakers.
With the rakers lowered, it's night versus day on how much a chain can cut. Where the saw dust (chips) is like matchsticks, to the point where the saw really pulls or can run out of power if you let it bite to much.

Don't most chains have a wear bar at the back of the tooth that gives good indication that you might be getting to the end of its life?

It doesn’t much matter how you cut your hair but the rakers need trimmed frequently to maintain maximum efficiency.

 

[kco]

Like YLee Kioti in post #5 I have the Stihl sharpening guide/holder that sharpens the rakers and teeth. I later found the Pferd sells what looks like the same holder much cheaper. Both are available on Amazon. I carry a simpler file holder guide for touch-up in the bush if I happen to dull the chain on a rock or dirt. I touch up the chain with the saw in a vise after every tank or two of gas. Keeping the chain sharp greatly reduces the work, and it just takes at most 10 minutes.

I keep a chain until it is right down to the minimum marks on the teeth before retiring it. I keep an old chain or two as a "stump chain" that is then discarded after one use. Another thing I have found is to clean the files regularly and retire them when they get worn. Sharpening is easy and takes much less effort with good files. Files are cheaper if you buy a pack of 12 (at least they were when I bought my last pack 2 or 3 years ago).

 

[MH8675309]

Knock the rakers down with a consistent number of strokes for each raker BEFORE you sharpen the chain.

 

[Bud Soda]

I sell and burn a lot of red oak. Sharpen all mine with a dremel tool. Takes just a few minuets per chain.

 

[goeduck]

Knock the rakers down with a consistent number of strokes for each raker BEFORE you sharpen the chain.

Why before? Not questioning you, more asking.