chainsaw chains

   / chainsaw chains #11  
Skip tooth chisel is really common around here (W. Washington) for cutting D. Fir, Red Alder, Spruce, Western Hemlock and Western Red Cedar. I run it on my 440 with 32" bar and it flys through anything I throw at it. The only thing I don't like is the vibration from the skip tooth. I've been thinking about trying a full comp, but I don't know how well it will clear the wood.

I'd stay away from dirty wood with full chisel since it seems to dull faster than a micro chisel.
 
   / chainsaw chains #12  
Every type of tree or wood will cut differently with the same chain. Changing the angle will make the biggest difference between hardwood and softwood. Changing the height of the rakers will determine the depth of the cut and the amount of material removed per tooth.

One caution about making a more aggressive chain is they have a greater tendency to pull the saw or grab the wood. Hold on tight and plant your feet well because the chain is going to grab the wood and only start cutting after you have applied more force to hold it back than it is pulling you forward.

This also means the chain is more prone to kick back should the tip of the bar contact something. I would use the 32 degree angle for cutting in softwoods and the 28 degree angle when cutting hardwoods.

The more aggressive the chain the more you have to work to hold it and the quicker you get tired. If you sharpen your chain after every tank of fuel and before that if you hit the ground or a rock you will have a very fast cut. The shorter the bar length the more power you have to cut with, long bars take more power to pull all that chain around.

Becareful.

Randy
 
   / chainsaw chains #13  
Hey.. my dad has a couple of really old chainsaws like that.. they chug along(slow rpm).
 
   / chainsaw chains #14  
I got tired of wringing life outa my tired old chains on my Stihl. When I went to the saw shop the little girl behind the counter suggested chisel chain. She said she hates those sissy chains... I took one to try... YIKES!! I told her to warn folks a little more when dummys like me buy that stuff. I bought two more. Those things can sure find daylight on the other side of a trunk in a hurry!
 
   / chainsaw chains #15  
The " sissy " chains are designed to prevent kickback and lawsuits. For some of us not fully experienced in the use of a chainsaw they may be the best.

Egon
 
   / chainsaw chains #16  
I agree with you. Interestingly, while I am not a rank amateur, I am no pro either, and I actually find that I am safer with the "unsafe" chain. It definately requires respectful use; and in return does a great job. I am less prone to get tired and can get in and out much more quickly...
 
   / chainsaw chains #17  
I also prefer the unsafe chain. Because of the better cutting one seems to end up with fewer problems.

Egon
 
   / chainsaw chains #18  
johnk; would that saw on the carpet be a Maul? Looks like it could be a 2 man.
 
   / chainsaw chains #19  
Youare: Are you a pro wood cutter? The reason I ask is that I have never been satisfied with that 30 degree angle for hard wood. I did a lot of google searchs and never seen the 28deg. mentioned. I did go to a 10deg hook angle and it seems to get the chip out quicker.
Finally bought a carbide chain, 100 bucks for an 18" 3/8 pitch for the MS440 magnum. Nothing quite like it for cut dirty logs.
 
   / chainsaw chains #20  
somtimes it is not about the cost saving, just think of the ambience of the wood stove. nothing like it on a cold snowy night. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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