Chainsaw Question

[diesel85]

I got a couple chainsaws (Stihl, Dolmar, Polan, etc), and I noticed that on more so on my Stihl and Dolmar, the chain brake covers get cuts in them from the chain on the bottom.

I attached a picture from the same Dolmar part. If you look at the picture, where the M is on the box you will see what I mean.



I asked some folks around town, and they say it's normal. I don't think it's normal. I don't think my chain is designed to cut metal!

I keep my chain properly tightened and well lubricated with bar oil.

Luckily the part is only $5.00 for my Dolmar and $12.00 for my Stihl. I just don't think it's normal.

 

[eddie48]

I would consider two possibilities; As you know, a new chain tends to loosen up a bit when you first use it. Perhaps it hits when it is loose? The second is if your bar is old and the slot for the chain is worn and wider than it should be. That would let the chain wobble side to side. I had a dolmar requiring 058 guage chain that I ran 063 guage in after it got old and worn. Worked fine.

 

[LD1]

Or running the wrong gauge chain for the bar.

Must be rocket science to some. But I have bought, or looked at buying many many old saws.

I'd say that on average....only 20% have the correct chain gauge.

I have quite a collection of .058 bars and .050 chain. If the bars arent shot, its cheaper for me to just buy 0.058 chain. If the bars are shot and chain good, I buy an .050 bar.

Dont know why its so complicated for some people to understand. They think as long as they get the right pitch and the right length then they are fine. NO.....

 

[oosik]

I have two Stihl and neither have that problem. I always buy my new chains from Stihl.

 

[ericm979]

Some saws (like pro level Stihls) have replaceable plastic wear/guide pieces there.

 

[diesel85]

Well,I looked at the chains for both the Stihl and the Dolmar. The Stihl is using the factory part # according to the OM and the Stihl dealer and it's still gouging the plate. So I've been getting the right chain for that saw, unless someone has been swapping chains out behind the counter at my local Stihl store. But I highly doubt that... The Stihl is a MS460.

I run both Dolmar and Oregon chains. My local Dolmar/Makita dealer sold me on Oregon chains because they do last longer than the OEM. I cross referenced the part numbers on those factory versus Oregon chains, and again spot on. Same chain gauge. The model saw is a Dolmar PS-7910XD.

The Dolmar is practically brand new and I love it. Runs circles around my Stihl and is more user friendly. I bought it to replace my Stihl that I really don't like, but I keep the Stihl as a backup or as a kick around saw.

So, I am at a loss... my cheap $150 Poulan doesn't do this, yet my $1000 chainsaws eats through chain covers... LOL

Maybe I'm just having bad luck with pro-grade chainsaws?

 

[hslogger]

`On bigger saws, we might call what your photo is, a wear plate. Together with nylon wear pads they pretty much get beat up and save the case from damage by throwing chain, or stress to the sides by using the saw in positions other than straight up. Seems that when you lean on a saw or do some serious manhandling that the chain on the sprocket, wether a free floating or fixed, gets moved around side to side a little bit. I always chalked it up to part of the game.

I have replaced many wear plates and pads. side note. wear plates can be real handy in cleaning out your bar when you are in the brush and the thing is packed with oiled sawdust and or dirt

 

[diesel85]

hslogger -- This is what my local folks are telling me. They say it's normal. Maybe that is why those covers are so cheap?

The only other thing is the way I use my saws. I am not easy on them, which is why I buy heavy duty saws.

I'm wondering when I get it bound up, that I'm twisting it a little and pulling on the throttle thus cutting/gouging up the wear plate/brake cover as the chain and bar flexes.

Since the Dolmar one is 5 bucks, I am going to get one, and replace it. Then do some "easy" cutting for a couple hours and see if it gouges.

I say my $150 Poulan doesn't have this issue... then again, I use that for very small debranching/trimming projects. I don't rap on it like I do the two pro saws I got. So, it's probably not fair I'm comparing a pro saw to a barely home owner grade Poulan.

 

[hslogger]

Diesel 85
I would venture to guess that you're going to be just fine with what ever you do. Yanking on saws and moving them in positions of impossible awkwardness tends to put stress on handlebars, body, chain, bar, and last but not least, the operator.
Bar plates and rubs are easily replaceable. Cases aren't.

 

[diesel85]

I ordered a new plate for the Dolmar. When it comes in, I have some ~25 logs that are waiting to be sawed into smaller chunks. This should put a few hours on the saw without it potentially binding it up at any bit or any type of weird maneuver or cut.

Taking a look at the saw again today, I think it did it because I was cutting springy downed trees and my bar kept getting wedged. If that's the reason -- then it's totally my fault. I know I'm strong, but I'll need to be easier on my equipment in the future and watch for this.

Although, I really won't know till I run it a couple hours sawing up "normal" logs.