Chainsaw Sharpening question

   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #11  
My grandfather sharpen the chain on his 1952 Homelite saw by hand when he was using it.
I shut my saw down to sharpen ;)
Hand filing is all I have ever done. One stroke per tooth on every tooth when needed, unless as Gunny said, I've hit something other than wood,
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #12  
My grandfather sharpen the chain on his 1952 Homelite saw by hand when he was using it. As far as I know it was never sharpened by anyone other then himself. I take mine in to get sharpened, and the guy will do two while I wait. Only get about four trips and it is time for a new loop. Running a bigger full chisel chain and have not found the larger stones needed at a local box store. Have purchased both bars and chain off the internet. One time it shipped from a business 20 miles from my home. We do business in person now.

If you are only getting 4 sharpenings out of a chain either they chains are banged up pretty good, or the guy running the sharpener is an idiot. I have customers that I do all their sharpening and have some chains running on 10-12 sharpenings. I have been into other shops and watched the guy remove half the cutter on one sharpening.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #13  
Count me among the hand sharpeners using the file holder; as stated you're able to point up the chain, on site, without the need for an electrical power source and, IF, you do this religiously every tank or so of fuel, you needn't remove much tooth material keeping the chain sharp
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #14  
The reason hand sharpening is better is because the metal stays cooler. When metal is heated on a grinder or dremel, the metal gets hot. When metal cools down slowly from high heat, it softens the metal and thus, it is easier to dull it. After every use, I set the saw in the vise and hand sharpen every tooth about 20 strokes. It takes little time and the chain performs flawless as a result of the harder metal. Also, I'm still on the same chain for over three years.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #15  
Twenty strokes ! You need better wood or a better file !
I touch mine up every three tanks or so with three or four strokes.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #16  
Twenty strokes ! You need better wood or a better file !
I touch mine up every three tanks or so with three or four strokes.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #17  
I hand sharpen, but don't do it in the field....just mount a new chain. If the chain needs sharpened, I do it by hand (file holder) in the shop where I put the bar/saw in a vise with a good light on the work.........2-3 strokes each tooth. That Timberline does sound interesting though. 20 strokes = ???.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #18  
I sharpen with a file in the field, usually 1-3 times a day as needed. And up until recently, I sharpened with a file at my workbench too, when doing periodic maintenance (where I'd flip the bar, clean out the clutch cover, etc).

I just got an Oregon grinder and touched up one of my chains that has been filed all this time. Can't say it's any better. I did notice that my hand filing angles were off a little (I seem to file to 25 degrees, whereas Stihl calls for 30 degrees).

Anyway, I really think it's important to file out on the job while you're working, as much as needed. Choose a semi-chisel chain if you find yourself filing too much. There is a right balance where you maximize productivity.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #19  
I use a file guide. Called the granberg.

I probably get 30 or 40 + sharpening out of a chain. But I dont wait until the saw stops cutting before I sharpen and I keep it out of the dirt.

Usually cut ~3/4 cord or so (what the trailer holds). Then touch it up with 3-4 strokes with the guide. Usually carry 2-3 saws with me when cutting. If I use all 3 about the same amount, I dont always sharpen after each load. Just one of them things you "know" when it is needing done.

Dont like having a machine or a "professional" sharpen mine. SOP for that is to take the worst tooth, and sharpen them all back to that level. Thats a waste of tooth life on ALL the other teeth. I only take what is needed, on a tooth by tooth basis. Adjust the rakers accordingly.
 
   / Chainsaw Sharpening question #20  
I too, use the file, in the field and at home. I used to take them to the local mower shop and they do a decent job, but at $7 a shot the price of a chain goes up considerably. Since it's 25 miles to town, I could only get them sharpened when I needed something else. That and they NEVER did it same day. That was frustrating, so I got my kit from Stihl and never looked back. They have great videos online and after watching a few, I have saved money and time really.

And like others, all I was getting was about 4 sharpenings per chain.

If I am going on a big cut, I always take extra chains with me. You never know what you might hit. Once helping a brother in law cut up a fallen oak out of his horse coral, I noticed the saw wasn't cutting well at all. Looked all around the log and it had fallen on a fence "T" post. The post had a nice shiny groove in it. Totally ruined that chain. Duh!
 

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