Chainsaw Sharpening question

[dadster4]

Another vote for the Timberline sharpener. I never had a problem putting a good cutting edge on any woodworking tool or knife, but never did too well with the chainsaw. It always cut better after sharpening, but did not last long and occasionally would pull left or right. Since getting the Timberline, all my chains cut true and last many more cuts between sharpening. Not cheap by any means, but worth it to me. :cool2:

 

[dodge man]

I have a dremel type tool made by Stihl that has alligator clips you just hook on to any 12 volt battery. I can sharpen my chain on the saw in 5 minutes. It has a guide line on it so you always maintain the factory angle. My 35 year old one gave up the ghost a couple years ago so I bought a new one. Best 30 bucks ever spent.

I have a very similar setup but made by Oregon I think. I almost think its as quick to sharpen it on the saw as to swap out a chain. I have a couple of chains but just swap it out once in a while and flip the bar while I'm at it. I also sharpen by hand too.

 

[Cord]

Sharpening with a file in a file holder isn't difficult once someone shows you how. Then you can sharpen on the bar out in the woods, no vise or power needed and you can sharpen every couple of gas fill-up's or so, whilst you are working. Keep the file horizontal to the bar and at the angle notched on the guide. I do 3 forward strokes per tooth..

I agree. I use a file in a holder to dress up the chain as necessary. Really extends the life and usability of the chain between proper sharpenings. My only fault is that I try to get too much life out of the files.

 

[clemsonfor]

i have the HF grinder. Its good for what it is, but thats it. Once you use a better grinder you really see the difference. One thing is to make sure you get the right size wheel for the HF grinder. it comes with a 3/8" LOW PROFILE wheel which is different than a normal full size 3/8'' size grinding wheel.

I was never a great hand filer as i never tried to learn before i got big into saws. But i can still grind with the HF grinder better than hand file, but the consistency is not there as there is so much slop in the grinder.

The timber tuff grinder and Roughneck (northerntool version) is a copy of one of the Oregon grinders. Its 20x the machine the HF grinder is. I got mine on sale with a coupon for $90 at NT. It has two more adjustments to fine tune a chain that the HF one does not. Once i used it i can really see the short comings of the HF unit.

I have a few dozen chains. I never sharpen in the woods and am ADD and cant sit to file the larger bars or chains (not blades) so i just take a few loops of whatever i am useing and then i sharpen them when i feel like it later.

To use the dremel you have to basically know what your doing with a hand file first and like someone said its going to be way easier to hack up a chain with that thing than hand fileing. With any machine or grinder you have to actually under stand how to hand file to get good results.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Or, if you have forgotten your stump vise, you could do it this way:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoNDVKdQX_A

Of course, if your saw is really dull, this would be tough to do!

 

[bspeedy]

Guess I'm among the minority. Never hand file. I've tried it, but must not have a feel for it because the chain performance does not improve. I replace chains as I work and use the bench mounted sharpener when I get back to the shop. Take as little off as possible to get a good edge and it works like a new chain. I have a sharpener from Tractor Supply that works great for this.

 

[Jw5875]

I purchased the Stihl 2 n 1 file guide. Sharpens the cutter and takes the guide down at the same time.
Very pleased with it, and I also take the chains to the Oregon grinder to keep all of the cutters the same length
after a few hand filings.
A little pricey - "Only a buck more to go first class"

jw5875

 

[Ford850]

I purchased the Stihl 2 n 1 file guide. Sharpens the cutter and takes the guide down at the same time.
Very pleased with it, and I also take the chains to the Oregon grinder to keep all of the cutters the same length
after a few hand filings.
A little pricey - "Only a buck more to go first class"

jw5875

I've been eyeing that 2 in 1 sharpener. I file mine currently, and take them in to the saw shop after they get too far out of shape. I haven't decided if I want to go first class by getting that Stihl 2 in 1, or if I want to go by private jet and get the Timberline.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Guess I am asking what do other people do.

This has been my process since 2010. I've Stihl -021,660,660,088, Efco 3600, JD 62 for saws, with bars ranging form 10" to 42", and generally 2 or more bars per saw size, and 4 or more chains per bar size. I used to do more Chain Saw Milling.

Seems like a lot of discussion on hand filing. Knowing how to hand file should be mandatory for anyone running a chain saw. But being able to keep all the angles proper and the rakers at the right depth is a difficult feat to master.
As I think I've posted elsewhere here I'm into chain saw milling.

I generally need to either swap or "touch up" chains about every 10' to 15' of 20" hardwood to keep every thing running smoothly. So my process is to hand file while outside, usually with a file and a Carlton File-O-Plate (FOP). That's the $5 solution.

Then when I get them inside (generally after having been "touched up" three times) I use a Granberg File'n Joint (a fancy file guide/jig) which is the $30 solution. This is probably good enough for most firewood cutters, especially if they don't rock the chain.

Then after 3 or so "Granberg" sharpenings (which would include about 9 or 10 FOP filings) I put it on the NT grinder to "true" all the angles up. That's the $100 solution.

One of the problems if you get your angles off is that the cut starts to curve a little, not much of a problem on a 2' crosscut, but a major problem on a 10' rip. Another is if you hit a nail or a rock and damage a few teeth, it's easier to grind them to get back in shape.

I tend to sharpen or swap chains based on chip size. When it gets small it's time to sharpen. About every "Granberg" I flat file the rakers.

Note - most of the time when I use the grinder it is just a light touch, as my hand filing has improved.

 

[clemsonfor]

Twenty strokes ! You need better wood or a better file !
I touch mine up every three tanks or so with three or four strokes.

Yea that file is dull!!