Chainsaw versus max. bar length?

[CobyRupert]

What's the biggest bar that I can (should) put on a 57cc saw (for just a few cuts on one big tree)?

I've ran a firewood saws for about 20+ years and have had no problem running a Husky 55 (53cc) with a 16" bar. My other "big" (not really, but bigger) saw is a Husky 257 (57 cc, 3.6hp (2.7kW)) with a 16" (but maybe a 18") bar.
97% of my use is limbing/firewood, so I don't mind those rare occasions when I have a few cuts on the rare big trunk where you might have to hit it from two sides to get through it with a 16" bar. For me I'd rather run a lighter saw all day when you don't really need that big saw horsepower for 95% of the cuts.

I say this because despite all the suggestions I'll get to go spend $800+ on a professional grade saw that weighs 1/2 ton, I don't want one!

A pretty big tree (elm?) fell over in the field, and from the way it sets, I'm thinking I want a (temporary) bigger/biggest bar on the 57cc to make those ~1/2 dozen cuts on the trunk.

Husky says the biggest you should put on the 57cc (and 53cc no matter what size chain pitch?) is 20". In reality, could I go bigger (24") and just baby it? I really want "reach", not horsepower and speed.

Anybody have any insight, experience or suggestions?
(Other than buy a bigger saw )

 

[LD1]

B&C length has more to do with power than CC's.

Look at stihl. They have a 50cc saw with (261) with more power than a 56cc saw (291). And the 361 at 59cc has about a full hp more than the 291.

Then there is chain type, pitch, sprocket teeth (gearing), hardwood or softwood, etc.

Really not a general rule of thumb for these things.

That said, I'd feel comfortable with your 57cc saw wearing an 18-20" bar all day long. For ocassional use big stuff, I'd be okay with the 24" bar but would get skip or semi-skip chain

 

[CobyRupert]

The Husky 257 (57cc) is rated at 3.6 hp (2.7kW) at 9000 rpm.

Good idea on the skip chain (if I can find it locally).

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It really depends on the exact model of the saw... My Jonsered 2260 60cc pro quality saw will pull a 24" bar, no problem at all!

IF you like Husqvarna, buy their 562xp with a 24" bar and you will be happy with it, I have it's cousin, the Jonsered 2260 I mentioned above, I love the saw.

SR

 

[dodge man]

I have a Stihl MS250 with a 18" bar. I wouldn't want a longer bar on it buts its rated at 3.0 hp and 45 cc. I would think your bigger saw would pull a 20" really easy and maybe a 24" would be pushing it. The skip teeth is a great idea. With a sharp chain, mine will almost pull itself into the wood to hard and try and kill itself.

 

[5030]

I'd think I'd find a neighbor with a longer bar and let him do it myself. That is a nasty position for a tree to be in to buck. Thats a saw pincher, body crusher tree.

 

[Egon]

The longer bar will work for occasional use with the right chain and operated correctly. Ie. Take time and don't overheat the saw.

 

[s219]

To me it comes down to balance first, and power second. My Stihl 461 stays balanced with a 28" ES Light bar, but a standard 28" bar would be nose heavy and awkward to handle. The motor won't care either way, but you the operator will get pretty annoyed after using a nose heavy saw for a couple hours.

For a 57cc saw, I'd say 20" max, but if it's nose heavy, go shorter.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I was in your situation and few years ago. I found a chain left in one of my rentals, and made a longer bar out of two others to fit... now have a 22" bar for my 025's.



I don't use it often, but when I need it, it's handy. If I need a real saw, I go borrow my buddy's ms 650 with 36" bar!

 

[CobyRupert]

I'd think I'd find a neighbor with a longer bar and let him do it myself. That is a nasty position for a tree to be in to buck. Thats a saw pincher, body crusher tree.

Oh yeah it is. Slow and steady with this one. Getting her down the rest of the way is the most tricky part. The trunk is still a good 14"-16" thick at about 15' above ground. (That's the problem when it falls on the branch heavy field side). Cutting the big trunk is my secondary problem. Think twice, cut once, cause it plays for keeps.

The longer bar will work for occasional use with the right chain and operated correctly. Ie. Take time and don't overheat the saw.

:thumbsup: Yeah, just for very occasional use, so I'm not that worried about balance.

 

[5030]

I happen to own (and have owned) a Stihl 075 AV. It's a bit over 30 years old. I bought it new and it's been well cared for. It's a beast of a saw, one of those that needs a compression release or it will break your hand. I run a Stihl 36" replaceable roller nose bar with 404 square tooth chipper chain and it's only purpose in life is big wood, preferrably bucking trunks, which is why it's not used much but when I do use it, it always brings a smile. It cuts like no tomorrow. Sounds like a motorcross bike, shakes like heck at an idle and spooled up screams like a banshee.

Have the original Bill of Sale too. Paid 725 bucks new, with an extra bar and 2 extra chains. PITA to sharpen too. You use a flat file not a round file. No, it's not for sale.:laughing:

 

[newbury]

I've run a 28" bar for Chain Saw Milling using my 62 CC John Deere CS62.

It pulled fine, cut well. But I was careful to ensure it was well oiled and didn't overheat.
I've used the same bar to trim fallen wood when my back was in pain and I wanted to avoid bending over.

 

[4570Man]

I'd put a bar big enough to cut the tree on the saw and run a skip tooth chain. BTW, my $800 that weighs a 1/2 ton, saw will put out 2 more HP than your saw, and only weighs a pound more. Not recommending you buy a saw for one job, but you only think you don't want one.

 

[hslogger]

my two cents. I dunno your expertise but I know mine. This larger diameter tree is in an unpleasant position. Bucking timber in unsafe circumstances is best done with all the power and bar you can have. That said, you don't wanna be hugging that tree with your body close by. That is why bigass saws and bars allow you to use the tip to finish it off and give you distance that you need from the danger area. On another note, I don't like one poster's homemade bar. If you aren't familiar and Comfortable with a larger saw, let some one else do'er. Above all, boots, chaps, gloves, helmet and glasses. Self preservation is the key to bucking timber when ever and wherever. Big saws and full skip chains are a different league.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Anybody have any insight, experience or suggestions?
(Other than buy a bigger saw )

View attachment 462731

Provide a few more pics and we will walk you through the process.

my two cents. I dunno your expertise but I know mine. This larger diameter tree is in an unpleasant position. <snip>

From the one picture it looks like the tree is wedged about 3 foot off the ground.

I'd start at the top and carefully trim it back in manageable pieces, probably with a mid size saw like you have.

If I wanted to be fancy I'd leave the main trunk hanging beyond the wedge point to provide balance.

Then I'd come back on this side of the wedge point a distance so I thought from where I cut to the wedge point would be about the same weight that I left hanging.

I'd then carefully cut a wide V notch in the trunk on the stump side of the wedge.



The object it to get the front to tip forward and the rear to drop.

/edit - I missed post#10 - for that I'd throw a chain over as high as possible and try to alternate tugging it with my tractor and cutting limbs, whittling it down.

 

[Egon]

One approach may be to nibble away and remove all the branch debri that is not supporting the main truck.

If a tractor or similar equipment is available try and pull the trunk around and get it on the ground. If not start near the base and as far away from the supporting trees by making a bottom notch and then finishing with a top notch. ??

 

[4570Man]

He said the tree is about 6" off the ground. Presumably the other side is touching the ground. I'd cut the other side free from the root ball and attempt to pull it and make it fall.

 

[hslogger]

I hope this link works and if not, go to you tube and type in BC timber safety. British Columbia workers comp have a series on timber bucking and accidents.

BC Faller Training Standard - Bucking (17 of 17) - YouTube

 

[IndyIan]

So is the tree over 30" in diameter at any point? You don't have to buck in one cut, doing one side then the other works fine. Do you expect to be cutting the odd 30"+ tree. If so then you might want to get a 24-26" bar with a full skip chain as mostly the its the number of teeth in the cut that determine how much hp the saw needs.
I sliced up the a 44" Ash tree with my 372 and a 36" bar and skip chain. It took a while per round, but the saw pulled it fine. Got 2 cords out of that tree which almost does me for a year.

 

[jb1390]

B&C length has more to do with power than CC's.

Look at stihl. They have a 50cc saw with (261) with more power than a 56cc saw (291). And the 361 at 59cc has about a full hp more than the 291.

Then there is chain type, pitch, sprocket teeth (gearing), hardwood or softwood, etc.

Really not a general rule of thumb for these things.

That said, I'd feel comfortable with your 57cc saw wearing an 18-20" bar all day long. For ocassional use big stuff, I'd be okay with the 24" bar but would get skip or semi-skip chain

One of the reasons for a limited bar length on that size saw is the oiling capability. Often times the oil pump is a limiting factor, not just the power of the saw. Some of the bigger saws, like my 395, have an adjustable oil flow that allow for the use of a variety of bar lengths while getting proper lubrication. That being said, I've used a 42" bar on my 372, and it turned it and cut ok. The 395 is better for both power and lubrication, but for one time use- I think you'd be just fine running a 24" bar on your saw. Skip chain might be nice but I doubt it's required, and it can be tougher to obtain.