Changed coolant

[RalphVa]

Could not go down below today again, too wet. So, I changed the coolant on the 2025R. Think it went about 5 years.

Compared to the 4010, the coolant change on this one was very easy. On the 4010, nothing would drain unless the vent on the thermostat was removed; 2025R has no vent. The 2025R's did just as stated in the Operator's Manual. Remove petcock on rad on right. Then remove block drain between fuel filter and temperature sensor. Leave cap in place. Sucks all the fluid from the little plastic reservoir.

Then put drains back, remove cap and fill. Use a funnel to put some just above "low" in plastic reservoir. Put cap back on and let it run to be sure everything is tight and enough fluid.

Took nearly 5 qts. Supposed to be 3.5.

Note to tractor manufacturers: join the rest of the moving wheel and generator world and give us coolant good for 10 years. The replace every other year is a 1980s thing, extreme waste of coolant, particularly if it's ethylene glycol.

Ralph

 

[jgayman]

Note to tractor manufacturers: join the rest of the moving wheel and generator world and give us coolant good for 10 years. The replace every other year is a 1980s thing, extreme waste of coolant, particularly if it's ethylene glycol.
Ralph

Where are you seeing instructions to change coolant every year? This per the JD website:

When COOL-GARD II or COOL-GARD II PG is used, the drain interval is 6 years or 6000 hours of operation.

 

[jonsstihl]

thats what the jug says but the manual says 2 years. and if you read the fine print on the jug you need to test the coolant every year to make sure the additives are still present.

I just did all my liquid cooled engines this year and I am shooting for a 5 year interval so it is easy to remember, 2020, 2025, 2030 etc...

 

[jonsstihl]

the test strips are like 30 bucks at the dealer and they expire so they are only good for a year or two.

 

[RalphVa]

Crap. Did it a year too early. Could have waited until next (6th) year.

The manual says every other year. It also tells you to use a chemical to flush it out between drain and refill.

Guess I'm good on this tractor. Will probably trade it off before another 5 or 6 years comes up.

Unless or until JD bring back steering brakes to the 2 series like mine has, next tractor will be a B Kubota.

Ralph

 

[jgayman]

Crap. Did it a year too early. Could have waited until next (6th) year.

The manual says every other year. It also tells you to use a chemical to flush it out between drain and refill.

I suspect some of the language in the manuals has not been updated in a long time. I see it as a non-issue as most of these small tractors hold less than a gallon of coolant. I don't bother with doing a flush as just replacing the coolant more often is easier. I'm sure if my tractor held 20 gallons of coolant I would think differently.

Unless or until JD bring back steering brakes to the 2 series like mine has, next tractor will be a B Kubota.

The Gen-2 2032R and 2038R have split brakes. I suspect the reason the Gen-2 2025R doesn't have split brakes is because it uses a similar drive train as the 1-series and of course the 1-series doesn't have split brakes either.

I guess it depends how you use your tractor. My 2720 has split brakes and I've never used them. On my old Ford 9N however, I used the split brakes all the time for turning.

 

[FortClatsop]

Mine says 24 months. I’ve never followed that. Always done every four or five years. A couple of years ago I read that those little buggers cost about $1200. I’ve considered upping my game. Though most people say the real problems result in mixing or flushing with hard water rather than distilled. My dealer says they flush with our surface/rain tap water and not intentionally dilute.

 

[beenthere]

........... A couple of years ago I read that those little buggers cost about $1200. I’ve considered upping my game. ...............

What are these "little buggers" ?? :confused3:

 

[RalphVa]

I did not flush.

Ralph