Changing coolant yearly or lack thereof.

[GeneV]

Stupid question incoming...what's your method for mixing from concentrate? Just take an empty gallon jug and pour in half coolant and top off with distilled water? I'm on a well, so definitely wouldn't use my tap water.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Usually use one of these types of jugs and a graduated cylinder to mix the concentrate.

My jug has volume markings on it that I use for the distilled water.

 

[3Ts]

Why does it need to be premixed? I drain, then flush with water, then drain again. Why can't you calculate how much concentrate is needed for the volume, put that in then top off with water and let the water pump circulate it to mix?

 

[RjCorazza]

For engines that I can't (or won't) drain the block, after flushing with distilled water I add 100% coolant in the same amount as the block capacity then pre mix the rest.
Since testers have been mentioned, I highly recommend the refractometer types. They are very accurate, easy to read, and not expensive. I believe mine was $20 bucks or so 10 years ago.

 

[oosik]

I have five year HD antifreeze in the tractor. Noticed that the Taco Wagon has ten year antifreeze. I use concentrate & distilled water for the tractor. Well water has too much minerals.

 

[rgr33]

Ditto on the refractometer, once you start using one, the floating ball type seem inaccurate.

 

[GeneV]

Ok, I tested it just now after topping it off yesterday, got 3 balls floating. Just for fun, I also tested the coolant in my Toyota Sienna (peach stuff...dex-cool?) for comparison, it also has 3 balls floating. So dunno, maybe it is the little bulb tester too? There is something wrong with the bulb on it, don't know if that has any bearing on things, I guess I'll just get a new one.

But guys, refractometer, does it really have to be that accurate? I don't care about precision to the nth degree, I just wanna make sure my radiator don't freeze in the normal winter temps we get around here.

 

[tomplum]

When I was in the midwest, it really only had to be -20. Below that it would gel which it rarely got. I think they still say the 50 /50 gets you the best heat protection, but then again... It's almost like asking opinions on engine oils. Using a multimeter can also detect "worn out" coolant additives and even indicate other issues pertaining to electrolysis. Oh think of the fun you can have.

 

[LouNY]

There are many types of coolant on the market today and they are not all compatible with each other.
I use a combination of full strength and I make up my own pre-mixed with a 60/40 ratio. The 60/40 ratio may be a
bit of over kill but it makes me much more comfortable regardless of the ambient temperatures.
My filling method after several flushes with well water is the last two flushes are with distilled water and using an
air hose to blow the water out of the block.
Then I fill it to a bit over half capacity with full strength then finish off with my 60/40 mix.

As I mentioned in my first line these new coolants are not compatible with each other or the old green stuff.
An example of what can happen with one of the new "long" life coolants and the old green stuff.

The first picture is after I couldn't figure out my over heating problem, after flushing and refilling a system.
It had run for several days and then overheated one night while it was idling and providing lighting for late work.
That was the internal of the water pump, the second picture is the impeller from the water pump the new one compared
to the old that chewed itself up trying to pump a waxy hard setting material. It toke considerable cleaning and several
chemicals to get the engine cleaned out.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Then I fill it to a bit over half capacity with full strength then finish off with my 60/40 mix.

Rather hoping you wrote that incorrectly, it would be somewhere north of 80/20 which would be a cooling inhibitor. It sure wouldn't freeze below -50 though!