Changing from L2501 to 3520

   / Changing from L2501 to 3520
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thank you Dave, the manual shows tie rod ends and ball joints to be greased but no mention of greasing anywhere else other than the 3-poin? But I looked at the steering and front end again yesterday and didn't see any zerks there? I'll look underneath including the drive shafts. I'm heading to the dealer now for filters and Low Viscosity fluid for the trans and front axle and I'll check with them. Hopefully they can print me off a manual for the 375 backhoe because I want to take it off.
 
   / Changing from L2501 to 3520 #12  
My tie rod end and other front joints have dimples where it looks like zerks could be added. I know JD caught a lot of crap leaving out the fact you had u joints you needed to grease from the manuals. That was a few years back though and I think on smaller tractors. You’ll know right away if you crawl under and look.
 
   / Changing from L2501 to 3520 #13  
You bought a nice machine.I wish you good driving🙏
 
   / Changing from L2501 to 3520
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thank you Mert. As an update I did change all fluids, converted the 3520 loader over to SSQA, and sold the JDQA 4 in 1 bucket and pallet forks. I decided to leave the Rim-guard in and SSQA pallet forks and 72" bucket are on order from EA.
 
 
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