Charging problem

[jimstractors]

My 1401d with a FEL doesn't seem to charge. I get 11-12 volts at the battery. I tested the alternator and get 30+- volts there. I replaced the voltage regulator and still the same at the battery. I end up having to charge the battery about once every 6 weeks in order to start the thing. (I use it 2 to 3 time a week to load manure). The battery seems to hold a good charge for that time, but if I use lights, or start 2 or 3 times a day, especially in the winter, then I have to recharge. Any ideas?

 

[kubmech]

You did'nt mention the simple stuff, so I'm just checking.
Fuse good? Alt. belt tight? Battery terminals clean? Battery cables in good condition? Igniton switch O.K? Good connection between pos. battery lead (at the starter) and d.c. output of regulator? Connection between alt. and regulator good?

 

[Thomas]

Check all wiring to your lights etc.. to make sure a bare wire not lightly making a ground..also grease,hay stuff like that hasn't built up aroung the wiring connection.

 

[Keoke]

Hi, 12 volts at battery and 30 volts at alternator means that the alternator is pumping into an open or very hi resistance circuit. Simply put, there is no connection or very hi resistance between your alternator and battery. Accordingly, the current has no where to go causing the voltage to rise to 30 volts.
If tractor has as fuse or a fuseiable link look for a blown one in the alt to bat circuit. Also check for corosion at all pulg in connectors in this circuit.
If you can't find the open then run a 10 gauge wire from alt output term to battery B+ at starter solenoid. It is not a good a idea to run alt on an open circuit like this, the 30 volts can damaged alt and voltage regulator.
Hope this helps!

cheers,

 

[kubmech]

Hey George, I think he was meauring AC volts at 30+. That current needs to be rectified to DC through the regulator before it goes to the B+ terminal. 30+ AC output from the alt. is pretty standard for this type of system.

 

[roger_scotty]

Could this be nothing more than the need for a new voltage regulator? Anyone know a quick and dirty VR test?

 

[Keoke]

Kubmech, yeah I don't know if this alternator is internal or externaly rectified and assumed internal. Seen tractors with both both types but don't have a clue as to what Yanmar is using.
A dc voltmeter will only measure about one half of the AC voltage (1/2 a sine wave) coming out of the stator tap ahead of the diodes instead of the full voltage.
Also, if he is getting 30 AC volts at alt stator then he has what looks to be a working alternator. This then takes him back to a what seems to be an alt to bat circuit problem.

cheers,

 

[jimstractors]

Thanks for the interest. I checked all the wires and connections. Everything is good, clean and tight. Battery and cables are good, too. I have no problems cranking and starting. The 30 volts AC was from the alternator. That voltage according to the book is correct, so the alternator is doing its job. Then it goes into the regulator and is supposed to come out converted to 14.5+- volts DC depending on the battery voltage/load. I already swapped regulators (a used one that I found), but the second regulator may also be bad. I think I will try a third regulator. Mine has 4 wires: 2 to the alternator, 1 to the starter motor + side, and the 4th seems to go to ground. I suspect that if there is a wiring problem, its the 4th wire.

 

[normde2001]

As near as I can tell from reading my YM240 service manual, that thing is internally rectified and you should see 30volts dc coming out of the alternator. If it's ac, You may have 1 or more bad diodes in alternator. Leonard Schaeffer did a big writeup on this in the old group. If I can find, I will post.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

jwjimbo you are on the right track. The (generator) puts out 25-30 ac volts and is converted with the regulator. I have encountered 2 different regulators for the 1401. They are not interchangable. I highly suspect both regulators you have tried.

Thanks,
Bruce
931 455 6999