Cheap Start to Reloading?

[4570Man]

Is it realistic too knock out 50 rounds in an hour on a single stage if your using pre set dies with bushings? Measuring each charge with dipper and trickling up to +/- 0.2 grs?

I seriously doubt it. If you had a powder dropper it’s doable. And .4 grains variation is pretty bad.

 

[k0ua]

I believe you could load 50 rounds an hour on a single stage with bushing/preset dies or a turret. You would have to hustle, and not let the grass grow under you feet, but I believe you could do it.

 

[Gunny]

50 rounds per hour on a turret is pretty realistic, if you have the right equipment. I do all of my reloading in the winter when it's too bad to be outside anyway, so I'm never in a rush. (With the current weather situation right now, can you guess what I've been doing?)

I'd still recommend starting out with a manual press until you make a hard decision on whether or not you plan to continue reloading. Then if you get a progressive later, the manual comes in handy for resizing or decapping. For powder measuring, you can get by with scoops, a scale and a trickler, but it will slow you down considerably. Don't waste money getting a cheap powder drop, wait until you can get a good one.

 

[rhunt]

Paul, just my two cents worth here but take a few minutes and read, I have been reloading for well over forty years. A turret press makes the task much easier, mine is an older Lyman and turret presses can be used both as a single stage or an progressive by rotating the head to the next case operation. Not truly a progressive but close. They also come with a priming gizzy. You do not need a case cleaner, the cases go into the chamber just fine whether polished or tarnished. You will need some sort of case length gage, a powder measure and some die's. You can save some money by buying a reloader in kit form as these usually come with just about all of what you need and at a savings to boot. Get your feet wet first and see if it's worth it to you. I think dollar for dollar, Lee makes fine equipment and there prices are going to be hard to beat, along with their quality. Yes, there are better equipment manufacturers out there but you are just getting into this sport. Save some money and enjoy. I use Midway for most of my purchases, look them up! Bob

 

[GaryM]

Like RHUNT, I've also been loading for over 40 years. You will not save any money reloading! But you will be able to shoot more for the same amount of money once you have the equipment. And, particularly with rifle ammo, be able to tailor your loads to what your particular rifle likes to shoot.

I started with a Lyman Tong Tool back in the late 60s. It was similar to the Lee hand tool currently on the market. Then I bought an RCBS press and started the journey.

Are there gun clubs nearby? They might have equipment for sale on their bulletin board. A local store that sells reloading supplies might have reloading classes, one near me does (Graffs). Check the NRA website because there are certified reloading instructors who might be holding classes near you.

Reloading manuals are essential, more than one if possible. The powder makers manuals will of course favor loads with their powders. Hodgdon and others have their data listed on their web sites. Hodgdon Reloading | Home

 

[paulsharvey]

Thanks everyone for the input. I think I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for a used press with extras, then build around it. I may go ahead and buy a scale (either a cheap balance beam or a cheaper electronic; I worry some about just electronic because i see drifting zero a lot on YouTube), and play with the old handloader, any powder and projectiles wouldn't be a waste once I get real equipment.

 

[paulsharvey]

If i find a smoking deal on a used balance beam, would you be worried about buying a used manual scale? i know they dont wear out, but would you be concerned abiut past abuse making them inaccurate?

 

[EddieWalker]

When I was getting into hunting, I wanted to improve the accuracy of my rifle, so I hung out with different friends that where into reloading. One was big into target competitions, the others where just guys that liked to go hunting once a year and enjoyed reloading. The biggest thing I learned is that it takes a lot of experimenting, trial and error, to find the ideal load for each rifle. I bought dozens of different brand and sizes of bullets, and probably a dozen different powders, in trying to find the right one for my rifle. Eventually we found a very nice combination that allowed me to shoot half inch groups of five at 100 yards on a good day. Some days I was more steady then others, but I did that a couple of times.

Sadly, when I went out hunting with that ideal bullet combination, I found out that they didn't expand very well and just zipped right through the animals that I shot. This happened with two blacktail deer and two caribou up in Quebec. I recovered all four animals, but realized that accuracy didn't always equate to destruction. So I went back to the reloading table with bullets that had a better reputation of mushrooming and retaining weight. I never found a combination that came anywhere near what I had before, and after reading a magazine article about the quality of premium factory loads, I decided to give them a try.

Eventually I came across Federal Premium ammo that gave me one inch groups with some practice. Not as good as my best days with the ideal loads, but this was with a 165 grain soft tip bullet compared to a 150 grain one. With this Premium factory ammo, I've found the results that I was looking for in taking down game, good accuracy, and best of all, no time spent at the reloading table.

We've done the same thing with my wife's deer rifle and found that Winchester Super X gives her one inch groups at 100 yards. So far, she has shot 3 hogs and 2 whitetails that have all been one shot kills.

If you have the time, or you just enjoy the process, go for it. But if you want to find the ideal round for your rifle, I feel that trying all the different premium ammo's out there is a much better option.

 

[rdinatal]

If i find a smoking deal on a used balance beam, would you be worried about buying a used manual scale? i know they dont wear out, but would you be concerned abiut past abuse making them inaccurate?

Check the fulcrum for wear. Also check if it zeros. Borrow an appropriate 200gr projectile and weigh it.

If it checks out, buy it.

-R

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

If i find a smoking deal on a used balance beam, would you be worried about buying a used manual scale? i know they dont wear out, but would you be concerned abiut past abuse making them inaccurate?

The fulcrum finally wore out on my original Ohaus beam scale. I think it took 20-25 years for that to happen. I started loading in '75. I have a beam scale and an electronic. I use both, but you don't need both. I also have a set of check weights that I test my scale with on a regular basis.