Checking airpressure in WATER FILLED tires.

[ClemBert]

When I check the air pressure with a normal pressure gauge water always comes out. The tires are rotated in the position where the valve stems are at their highest point. Do I need a special device to check air pressure in a water filled tire? Or is a special device only needed when adding water to a tire? The max pressure on the label is 26 PSI and I assume for water filled tired that the maximum should be put in. Is that true?

 

[lynrob]

If your valve stems are at their highest point and you are still getting water out, then it sounds to me like your tires are completely full of water which is a bad thing. Your tires should not be solid water. Water is incompressible so you need some air in the tires to act a a shock absorber when you go over bumps. When the tire is deformed as you go over bumps, the air inside is compressed and allows the tire to change shape slightly without putting undue pressure on the tire. Otherwise, the tire is like a hydraulic system and the fluid transfers all of the energy produced when hitting a bump directly to the tire. If the jolt is hard enough it could burst the tire. I think my manual recommends a max of 75% fluid fill.

Maybe if you have inner tubes that might change things I don't have experience with that, but my guess is that you might have too much water in the tires.

 

[jester156]

you will need a pressure gauge that can test tires with liquid in them, the straight air ones will not read with liquid in the tires, I also think it keeps any liquid in the tires from coming out. I have mine filled with rimguard but I havent purchased a guage yet for checking, its on my list though

 

[sweettractors]

We occasionally vary tire pressures to accommodate certain jobs and implements. Ken Sweet

 

[SARG]

you will need a pressure gauge that can test tires with liquid in them, the straight air ones will not read with liquid in the tires, I also think it keeps any liquid in the tires from coming out. I have mine filled with rimguard but I havent purchased a guage yet for checking, its on my list though

From what I can find the standard stick gauge will work fine. They don't use a dial or a digital unit because the moisture will get inside the dial window.

 

[Bird]

A straight air gauge will work, but probably won't last long before corroding and no longer work. The air/liquid gauges cost little, if any, more than a straight air gauge. But as has already been mentioned, you don't want the tires filled more than 75% with water. However, even if properly filled, and the stem at the 12 o'clock position, there's likely to be a little water in the stem itself that could account for you seeing water when you check the pressure. Personally, I always checked mine at the shop where I had an air hose handy. So I'd stop with the stem at 12 o'clock, give it just one very quick blast of air to clear the stem, then use the tire gauge.

And no, you don't necessarily want the tires aired to the max. Use the same pressure you would use if you had nothing but air in the tires. In other words the pressure that results in a full footprint. You'd like the entire tread, side to side, to contact the ground.

 

[SandburRanch]

A full solid stream of water coming out and a mist of water lasting a few seconds are two different things to consider. A full solid stream may mean there has been too much water added. This is more likely to happen if the tire was laid down and the bead broken to add liquid than if it was added through the stem at 12:00.

Just a mist? This can be attributed to dew point temperature. To the best of my knowlege the air in the tire is always at 100 percent relative humidity.

 

[adjusterr]

If I suspect there is too much liquid in my JD 1010 tires, what is the best way to determine? I'm considering moving the valve to about 12 noon position and check for water. If I find water,let it expel then slowly roll forward until the valve is at approx 2:00 position and hold that position until the water stops, then place valve back to 12 noon and fill with air. Does this sound workable?

 

[SandburRanch]

If I suspect there is too much liquid in my JD 1010 tires, what is the best way to determine? I'm considering moving the valve to about 12 noon position and check for water. If I find water,let it expel then slowly roll forward until the valve is at approx 2:00 position and hold that position until the water stops, then place valve back to 12 noon and fill with air. Does this sound workable?

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Sounds workable to me if you jack the wheel up and remove the schrader valve.

 

[Zebrafive]

It's my understanding the pencil style guages made for air/liquid are spring loaded to expell any liquid when removed from the valve stem. So you have to read the pressure while the guage is on the valve stem.

 

[ClemBert]

It could very well be that the water I'm seeing is just the small amount of water on the inner side of the valve from wheel rotation. The tires were originally filled by the JD dealer I bought the tractor from.

I think the plan is as follows:

1. Turn wheel so valve is at 12 o'clock position.
2. Jack up wheel axle to remove pressure off of tire.
3. Unscrew Schrader valve from valve stem.
4. Let any air/water out that wants to come out.
5. Lower the axle jack to allow the tire to decompress by 30% and let additional water if any out.
6. Install Schrader valve and jack wheel axle back up.
7. Fill air to 12-15 PSI.

Whadda y'all think about that procedure?

 

[Bird]

It could very well be that the water I'm seeing is just the small amount of water on the inner side of the valve from wheel rotation. The tires were originally filled by the JD dealer I bought the tractor from.

I think the plan is as follows:

1. Turn wheel so valve is at 12 o'clock position.
2. Jack up wheel axle to remove pressure off of tire.
3. Unscrew Schrader valve from valve stem.
4. Let any air/water out that wants to come out.
5. Lower the axle jack to allow the tire to decompress by 30% and let additional water if any out.
6. Install Schrader valve and jack wheel axle back up.
7. Fill air to 12-15 PSI.

Whadda y'all think about that procedure?

Nothing wrong with that procedure, but why take the time to jack up the axle, lower the jack, then jack it up again. I'd just dispense with the jack entirely.

 

[Zebrafive]

If you want less than full, valve stem at 12 O'clock, I would rotate the tire while jacked up to what ever level you want. It would be more repeatable for the other side and the future if you have a tire repair or replacement.

 

[EE_Bota]

If you are low on air, the water will seem to have risen in the tire higher than it would ordinarily be. I would jack it up, so that the tire will not be deflected, and therefore water will fill that additional volume (made available by the lack of deflection of the tread patch.)

With the stem at 12:00, do the blast others talked about to clear the stem. Then press the stem to see if water comes out. Or you may just remove the valve core.

I air the tires to what the manual says. Most times, what's on the side of the tire is the max, not the recommended. I have 4wd though, so it is a bit more critical than some.

Over the years, I find air stays in a filled tire better than an unfilled tire. I think the water is harder to express through the pores of the rubber than air, so the water acts as a bit of a sealant.

 

[Tx Jim]

It could very well be that the water I'm seeing is just the small amount of water on the inner side of the valve from wheel rotation. The tires were originally filled by the JD dealer I bought the tractor from.

I think the plan is as follows:
Whadda y'all think about that procedure?

Did you get this plan from an operators manual? The way I was taught to fill tires with fluid(I did many at a JD dealership) was to put stem at 12 o'clock and fill till level with valve stem. Then set air psi to what OM stated for given load on tractor. Usually if bottom cleats at edge of tire are just beginning to clear ground that's close to correct psi on bias ply tires.

 

[Tx Jim]

Nothing wrong with that procedure, but why take the time to jack up the axle, lower the jack, then jack it up again. I'd just dispense with the jack entirely.

If you don't jack up tire and relieve ground pressure you just be guessing how much fluid you let out. You might have 65% remaining on one side and 50% on the other.

 

[Bird]

If you don't jack up tire and relieve ground pressure you just be guessing how much fluid you let out. You might have 65% remaining on one side and 50% on the other.

I don't see how that could be, assuming the same kind of tires on both sides, and assuming you have the valve stem at the 12 o'clock position on each one when you do it. And assuming the weight on each side is equal so each tire is compressed the same amount when deflated.

 

[JD3520Turbo]

I like the idea of having it jacked up, with stem at 12. Remove the valve and let it drain until stops. Then rotate the stem to the 10 or 2 position if that is where you want it, and let that drain. Then put valve back in and air to proper levels. Should be good to go.

One thing to look at is if you have tubes or not. If not, you will want to keep the fluid/water over the rim at the top, so it doesn't rust. If the rim doesn't ever come in contact with the air, then it won't rust.

12 to 15 psi should be the right amount of air, unless you have very heavy loads in the back.

 

[dklistul]

Seems to me, you could just put the valve stem at 12:00, remove the valve core and let the air and water out until the tire is flat. If you do this on both sides, and get water out of it until the tire is flat, you'll have equal amounts of water in each tire. The "flat" part of the tire would define the amount of space you have for air. Essentially, assuming that the tire is flat, the air is out and the rest of the tire is filled with water, you'd then have about the right amount to keep the top of the rim covered at all times when you air the tires back up.