Chimney Installation Questions

[dieselscout80]

Good advice on potential problems with a long external pipe. We set up similar installation years ago but we build a freestanding brick (double brick with chimney liner) chimney adjacent to the house. We put a clean out at grade level where the furnace pipe entered the chimney. It worked very well and had minimal ash and creosote buildup. We also put some stabilizer steel straps just under the soffit.

It may sound extreme, but if you really don't want an internal chimney, and you've ever done any masonry work, it's not that hard of a job.

Another caution: If you are installing an airtight stove (with outside combustion air intake) in the basement, be sure it's very well sealed and that you add a tight seal shutoff damper in the outside air intake. The gravity flow from the outside air intake will push down into the stove and potentially result in an ash smell in the basement when the stove is not in operation.

Kenny,

This free standing chimney is a space away from the exterior wall or does that mean it has its own foundation?

Do you have a pic of it?

I don't think running the chimney up through the house is an option. The stove pipe or the a 3" drain pipe would have snake around the other one.

 

[KennyG]

The chimney is separated from the house by about 6 inches, as I recall. A substantial foundation was poured for the chimney, tied into the basement wall. It's close enough to the house that there is a notch in the soffit where it passes through. The roof edge slopes at this point (i.e., it's on a gable). This was my Dad's house. He had previously had a house burn down from a chimney fire. He wanted a central heating wood stove but refused to have a chimney inside the house. The system he installed has been the primary source of heat for the house for over 30 years now and has been trouble free. We sweep the chimney every year (very easy to do with the cleanout at ground level) but get almost nothing out of it.

Sorry, don't have any pictures now.

 

[sal64]

We want to install a wood stove or a built in fire place in our basement.

I have a couple of installation questions.

How hard is this do yourself?

With double wall pipe how much clearance is required between the double wall pipe and vinyl siding?

Is our soffit wide/deep enough to run double wall pipe through?



I've been watching this thread closely.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/191845-reduce-heating-bill-wood-stove-12.html

its not so hard you can buy the kit, the clearance from the vinyl is mantained by the clamps i think its 2-3 inches the main thing is make sure the bottom support it bolted strong enough, then just stack clamp the pipes and put your wall support brackets.

 

[dieselscout80]

The chimney is separated from the house by about 6 inches, as I recall. A substantial foundation was poured for the chimney, tied into the basement wall. It's close enough to the house that there is a notch in the soffit where it passes through. The roof edge slopes at this point (i.e., it's on a gable). This was my Dad's house. He had previously had a house burn down from a chimney fire. He wanted a central heating wood stove but refused to have a chimney inside the house. The system he installed has been the primary source of heat for the house for over 30 years now and has been trouble free. We sweep the chimney every year (very easy to do with the cleanout at ground level) but get almost nothing out of it.

Sorry, don't have any pictures now.

Ok I understand what you meant now. Thanks

 

[mrmikey]

Here's Selkirks site with thir installation guides Selkirk: Selkirk Installation Guides .....Mike

 

[dieselscout80]

Here are a couple of pics that show the inside of the wall and the obstacles.

 

[mrmikey]

So you're going to go thru the cinderblock and up the outside of the house, it doesn't look so bad. At least you have no concerns about any combustable wall material being close to the flue
At least the wall's not finished so you can see what you're working with, do you plan on finishing it eventually?.....Mike

 

[dieselscout80]

So you're going to go thru the cinderblock and up the outside of the house, it doesn't look so bad. At least you have no concerns about any combustable wall material being close to the flue
At least the wall's not finished so you can see what you're working with, do you plan on finishing it eventually?.....Mike

Mike, yes we plan on finishing the wall when we do the stove/fireplace.

I wonder if a non brick chimney around a double wall system would be best.

My soffit is about 15 1/2" deep/wide.

 

[mrmikey]

I wonder if a non brick chimney around a double wall system would be best.

Don't quite catch your drift I'm 'fraid

My soffit is about 15 1/2" deep/wide.

A 6" Selkirk (what I use for a generic name for a s/s chimney) is about 10" O/D, allow 3" ( I think it was minimum to any combustable material) so that's 16", not gonna happen so you're going to have to leave it open like I had thought, a 'slot' in the roof, open on the outside edge. I've seem them done like that and if done right, doesn't look bad at all. IMHO think it's better and easier as you don't have to flash around the chimney/roof pass thru.
However you do it, find out where the rafters are in your roof so you can go up between them. I'd hate to have to see you cut a tail off a rafter to run the flue up when you could have moved the stove one way or the other with no problem....Mike

 

[dieselscout80]

Don't quite catch your drift I'm 'fraid


A 6" Selkirk (what I use for a generic name for a s/s chimney) is about 10" O/D, allow 3" ( I think it was minimum to any combustable material) so that's 16", not gonna happen so you're going to have to leave it open like I had thought, a 'slot' in the roof, open on the outside edge. I've seem them done like that and if done right, doesn't look bad at all. IMHO think it's better and easier as you don't have to flash around the chimney/roof pass thru.
However you do it, find out where the rafters are in your roof so you can go up between them. I'd hate to have to see you cut a tail off a rafter to run the flue up when you could have moved the stove one way or the other with no problem....Mike

You gave me a bunch of good info for not knowing what I meant.

Earlier in this thread some one mentioned that my chimney might be to tall for a outside chimney and cause the chimney to cool off and not draft well.

I had a house that had a chiomney that had siding on on rather than bricks. I was thinking that a chimney of wood around a 6" Selkirk type chimney might keep it warmer and help it draft better.