chimney question

[buckbros]

A friend of mine is putting a barrel stove in his garage. It has a 6 inch connector for a 6 inch stove pipe. He is building a masonry chimney. What size flue would be best?

 

[Industrial Toys]

Don't know. But a friend of mine is always telling me how a chimney should be as warm as possible. So, an outside masonry (fieldstone) chimney as we have is no good. Interior is better, or insulated SS.

I don't see why 6" would not be fine. Also have the top higher than any nearby structure and avoid elbows. A straight shot up is best.

 

[Diggin It]

Need more input. How much flue is inside the garage? How much chimney will be outside?

I would want as much metal as possible inside to transfer the heat into the room. I don't want it heating the outside air any more than necessary.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I don't have insurance, so I can do as i like, but around here, insurance companies require that your wood burning appliances be WET certified, annualy!

 

[buckbros]

Need more input. How much flue is inside the garage? How much chimney will be outside?

I would want as much metal as possible inside to transfer the heat into the room. I don't want it heating the outside air any more than necessary.

The metal stove pipe will go up about 4 feet, connect to a 90 degree elbow, go about 4 feet into the crock which will be installed in a 4 x 4 brick "wall". The complete chimney will be outside.

 

[Industrial Toys]

NOT a good plan. Not for draft and not for creosote. You ideally want a warm straight flue for both.

 

[radios1]

A friend of mine is putting a barrel stove in his garage. It has a 6 inch connector for a 6 inch stove pipe. He is building a masonry chimney. What size flue would be best?

6 inches. the manufacturer determines the proper size, and should state the proper installation in the manual, if too large, the flue gases will slow down, if too small, the flue gases cannot escape fast enough.. follow the manual!..

 

[Industrial Toys]

I'm guess it's a home made barrel stove.

 

[buckbros]

6 inches. the manufacturer determines the proper size, and should state the proper installation in the manual, if too large, the flue gases will slow down, if too small, the flue gases cannot escape fast enough.. follow the manual!..

Nothing in the manual.
I realize that if too small or large that it would not draft properly. That is why I posted here, hoping for someone that may be familiar with wood stove installations.

 

[buckbros]

NOT a good plan. Not for draft and not for creosote. You ideally want a warm straight flue for both

Unfortunately can not go straight up.

I'm guess it's a home made barrel stove.

Kit from Tractor Supply

 

[LouNY]

The better way would be the triple wall outside chimney with the clean outs.
If bound and determined to go masonry.
I am assuming you are using the clay tile for the outside part inside a masonry block stack;
you can get round flue liners but most are square or rectangular.
If it was mine I would use the 8 " square and have a very good deep cleanout.
Lou

 

[fried1765]

I don't have insurance, so I can do as i like, but around here, insurance companies require that your wood burning appliances be WET certified, annualy!

I do not believe that WETT certification is required annually!

I just sold my oceanfront summer home in Nova Scotia and had a non WETT installation (never used).

I had a beautiful new large round (44" across- glass all around) fireplace, in a vaulted ceiling panoramic ocean view living room.
The local yokel would not WETT certify it, because it was built in the USA, and did not have a CSA sticker. It was brand new, but my buyer did not want it, because it was not WETT certified.
What a shame!
I removed it and took it back to the USA.
When I get back up to New England (Florida now) I will list it on E-bay.
I bought it in Minnesota 29 years ago, but never used it.
Paid $3000 then. Will list it on E-Bay in the Fall.
It will be perfect for someone in Maine, NH, or VT. with a large lake, or ocean, view living room.

Question: Do bananas sold in Canada also require a CSA sticker?
There is a danger: One could choke on a banana if eaten too fast.

 

[radios1]

I do not believe that WETT certification is required annually!

I just sold my oceanfront summer home in Nova Scotia and had a non WETT installation (had not used it).

I had a beautiful new large round (44" across- glass all around) fireplace, in a vaulted ceiling panoramic ocean view living room.

The local yokel did not want to WETT certify it, because it was made in the USA, and thus did not have a CSA sticker. It was brand new, but my buyer said he did not want it, because it was not WETT certified..
What a shame!

I removed it, and took it, along with the class B chimney, back to the USA.
When I get back up to New England (Florida now) I will list it on E-bay.

I bought it in Minnesota 29 years ago, but never used it.
Paid $3000 then. Will list it on E-Bay in the Fall.

It will be perfect for someone in Maine, NH, or VT, with a large lake, or ocean view, living room.

Question: Do bananas sold in Canada need a CSA sticker too?

some people are very odd!. the buyer should not have even known what WETT is, unless he saw something on the internet or TV, or possibly a weird home inspector, trying to make the buyer happy by reducing the home price!!.. I think Bananas just need the WETT certification though, they could emit gases when they decompose, so, therefore, it seems they WOULD have to be certified!!..(Canada, sheesh!)...

 

[fried1765]

some people are very odd!. the buyer should not have even known what WETT is, unless he saw something on the internet or TV, or possibly a weird home inspector, trying to make the buyer happy by reducing the home price!!.. I think Bananas just need the WETT certification though, they could emit gases when they decompose, so, therefore, it seems they WOULD have to be certified!!..(Canada, sheesh!)...

Good point!
I had planned to sell the buyer the dining set.
He convinced me that he was entitled to it, since he did not want the circular fireplace.
Oh well, with the Canadian dollar currently at .75, I think I will come out better, since I feel the the fireplace is probably worth at least twice the price of the dining set, and the E-Bay sale dollars will be USD.

 

[Ford850]

The better way would be the triple wall outside chimney with the clean outs.
If bound and determined to go masonry.
I am assuming you are using the clay tile for the outside part inside a masonry block stack;
you can get round flue liners but most are square or rectangular.
If it was mine I would use the 8 " square and have a very good deep cleanout.
Lou

This is similar to how mine is built. My wood stove has a 6" metal flue, up a couple feet and then 90* back into a masonry nipple that is inserted in a square flue (inside masonry block stack). The square flue is actually closer to 7" inside. My clean out door is 5' below the nipple, and the total chimney height is approximately 30'.

 

[tcreeley]

The metal stove pipe will go up about 4 feet, connect to a 90 degree elbow, go about 4 feet into the crock which will be installed in a 4 x 4 brick "wall". The complete chimney will be outside.

That 4 horizontal run will collect ash + soot over time and reduce the draft. Instead of a 90 degree connector, how about two 45' to get you to the chimney? That would allow you to tap the pipe and the ash and soot should fall back down into the stove - easier clean up. - better draft.

Metal asbestos SS insulated pipe makes the best exterior chimney. It does not get cooled by the cold, the wind. I've built two exterior cinder block chimneys with tile flue liners. In both the creosote condensed + moisture inside the chimney and bled threw the tile and blocks. When I took the chimney down, it did so in pieces. - Lift a block off. Lift a tile liner out. Lift the mortar in one piece out. Then the next block. Conden. sation did that. Gravity was all that was keeping it in place.

I put in a metal asbestos Selkirk sells them over amazon - ell of the pieces, all you need - same as a stove shop would sell.

 

[buckbros]

The better way would be the triple wall outside chimney with the clean outs.
If bound and determined to go masonry.
I am assuming you are using the clay tile for the outside part inside a masonry block stack;
you can get round flue liners but most are square or rectangular.
If it was mine I would use the 8 " square and have a very good deep cleanout.
Lou

This is his plans

 

[buckbros]

This is similar to how mine is built. My wood stove has a 6" metal flue, up a couple feet and then 90* back into a masonry nipple that is inserted in a square flue (inside masonry block stack). The square flue is actually closer to 7" inside. My clean out door is 5' below the nipple, and the total chimney height is approximately 30'.

I have this almost exact set-up on my house for 40 yrs.. The project that I posted about is not mine. It is a friend. I told him what I had & thought I would ask opinions.

 

[dmccarty]

That 4 horizontal run will collect ash + soot over time and reduce the draft. Instead of a 90 degree connector, how about two 45' to get you to the chimney? That would allow you to tap the pipe and the ash and soot should fall back down into the stove - easier clean up. - better draft.
....

This. Two 45 degrees are better than two 90's. Our wood stove goes straight up into the attic but needs to change direction for structural reasons, and to get close to the peak of the roof, so we used two 45 degree sections.

Google chimney designs or something similar and there will be construction details. One also has to consider the height of the chimney outside the house compared to the roof height. As has been stated, keeping the chimney warm is important for proper draft so it is best to have the chimney inside the building envelope as much as possible. A chimney on an outside wall is doable but it would be better to be inside the house walls.

We used double wall stainless steel chimney sections.

Later,
Dan

 

[radios1]

This is his plans

use the 6" pipe, slowing down the flue gases in a wider pipe than designed will reduce draft, that's NOT a good thing!!.. if the stove is designed for a 6" pipe, there's a very good reason for it!..