Chipper clogged by pine needles

[SylvainG]

So because of that big freezing rain event last winter, we lost many pine's branches that I had to chip this weekend. The first hour went fine, then the chute clogged with pine needles, like real hard packed, bogging the tractor. After unclogging the chute, I went at it again but that only lasted a few minutes before it was clogged again :-( So using diesel, I cleaned the inside of the chute that was all gummed up and I was able to finish the job (about half an hour). Now my question is, what can I do (beside not chipping fresh pine branches) to prevent this from happening? Would waxing the inside of the chute help and if yes, what can of wax should I use? Chipper is a Woodland Mills WC68.

Thanks.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

after many years of chipping, we learn there are somethings that maybe shouldn't go through our machines.
one category of these are things that smear, spread, stick and otherwise and get stuck in the crevices that become near impossible to clean.
Sticky / sappy pine falls into this category.
This is one of those things that goes through a chipper better dry than sappy.

Wax etc... is not going to fix your crevice rough edges issue.

Maybe try smoothing out crevices by using tape?

nothing ever worked for me other than run small batches and clean afterwards like a hot water power wash.

 

[ruffdog]

I wonder if that was the reason the tree removal company chose to do my 1800 evergreens when it was so cold....hmmm. I never thought of the gumming up problem.

 

[nyone]

Chipping fresh white pine in a large tow behind 18in in feed chipper can clog it too. What I did was every so often throw a big limb in every few smaller ones. Are you just chipping small branches?

 

[oosik]

Green pine branches = lots of pine sap. Either of these two will solve your problem.

Larger chipper with bigger discharge chute and higher air flow.

Let the branches dry for a year - then chip.

I had the exact same problem when I had my Ford 1700 and a Wallenstein BX42S.

I thin my pine stands. Every other year or so. 800 to 1200 small pines get chipped. I would pile the pines and let them dry out for a year. This solved the plugging problems.

I've gone to a Kubota M6040 and a Wallenstein BX62S. Now I chip the same time as I thin.

 

[mikester]

One word - SLOW DOWN the infeed. If you make more chips then you expel you are SOL. Keep an eye on what's coming out the chute. If volume drops then you are feeding too fast.

Keep your knives sharp.

 

[oldnslo]

We used to add small water in the blower when blowing haylage to reduce gumminess no clue if that would help for wood chips. Blower had a fitting we could attach hose to.

 

[diesel85]

We used to add small water in the blower when blowing haylage to reduce gumminess no clue if that would help for wood chips. Blower had a fitting we could attach hose to.

Water doesn't wash pine tar off easily. Ask me how I know.

You need something like a turpentine injection system to keep things from getting all gummy... lol

 

[JJT]

If I have to chip a lot of pine, I wait until I can mix it with some hardwood. Running straight pine for hours is asking for trouble. I can run a 50% mix for hours and have no issues.

 

[ericm979]

Even chipping wet doug fir with lots of needles I have not had a problem with clogging or pitch build up. Maybe some pines have more pitch?

The only times I have had the chute clog was when the knives were dull. They do not need to be dull by much, so I try to change them early. 20 hours seems to work for my chipping and chipper (Woodmaxx 8H)

 

[oosik]

YUCK. I remember the days chipping my pines with the Wally BX42S. About every hour or so. Stop everything and douche out the discharge chute with shop rags soaked in diesel fuel. I found that chipping an old dry limb - every so often helped also. My problem - VERY limited supply of old dry limbs.

I've had the Wally BX62S for nine years. The original side of all the knives are still razor sharp. Chipping small, green pines( 1" to 6" on the butt ) and not dragging them thru the dirt really saves the knife blades.

 

[SylvainG]

Thanks all. To answer some of the questions:

The chipper has just a few hours of use, no hard wood (lots of sandy soil here so mostly spruce, pine and some birch. I checked the 4 blades and they were all sharp.
The freezing rain only did damage to the pine trees, so that's all I had to chip. Couldn't mix hard wood in there, since I almost have no hard wood trees on the property.
Biggest branch was 4" diameter, but most were about 1" and lots of needles.
Feeding was fine for what I could see. Once I cleaned the chute with diesel, I was back in business.

If I ever have to chip large quantity of pine again, I guess I'll stop every hour to clean the chute of sap with diesel.

 

[oosik]

I only chip in the spring. Cooler weather. When I'm completely done - coat all the knife blades with a heavy grease. Keeps any of the blades from rusting. My chipper is one implement that I store up on a pallet and under the cover of my carport.

 

[oosik]

A short CRAZY story this morning. So yesterday - out checking my many pine stands. Seeing how much thinning/dragging/chipping needs to be done.

Brownie - my little brown Cocker Spaniel - is at the base of a very large Ponderosa pine - barking like mad. So....no coyotes, no badgers, no raccoons.

Finally - I look up. At the very top of this gigantic pine - a single porcupine. Munching on the soft bark - up there at the very top.

Two things spring to mind - he is a darn good climber - - he is a tad short in the brain pan. If he fell from that height - about 90 to 95 feet - he would land and have the same effect as a water balloon.

I hope this is the only way Brownie ever has an experience with a porcupine. When outside - I always keep Brownie close at hand.

 

[5030]

Knives need sharpening...

 

[5030]

I spend a wad of time in the shop, sharpening chipper knives for commercial tree companies. Interestingly, I'm the only shop around here that grinds them and the cost of new commercial chipper knives makes regrinding much more cost effective and the same applies to chainsaw chains, which I also do. Just ground 40 loops for a commercial operator along with his chipper knives. I charge 10 bucks a loop for grinding, no matter what the length of the loop is.

I always have a pile to sharpen and the knife edge as well as the angle of taper on the knives play an important part as to how any chipper expels chips and the velocity.

Presently, my per inch grind charge is 60 cents per lineal inch and most commercial knives are double edged plus I also square the anvils at the same cost.

Retirement is grand....not really.

 

[jonsstihl]

You must batch the knifes because at 6.00$ for a 5 inch knife I don't see how you make any money. Do you grind them on a surface grinder with coolant. I haven't had to sharpen my knives yet on my chipper but I am probably due to flip them over.

 

[5030]

I own a chipper knife grinder. 4 at a time... Not about making money anyway. I provide the service for commercial arborists only.

 

[5030]

Dull knives are the leading cause of plugging, dull or incorrect angle. Could be the anvil needs ground as well.

 

[jonsstihl]

whatever keeps you busy and you enjoy doing is great. and if it happens to help with the bills even better.