chisel vs moldboard plow
- Thread starter hotchkiss
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Farmwithjunk
Super Member
hotchkiss said:
Chisel plow;
advantages, More width per HP typically, better soil structure from breaking up compaction layers, depending on type of points, better mixing of soil, A true chisel plow leaves a slightly rougher surface which catches moisture and helps it to be absorbed into the ground rather than running off causing erosion. Leaves some surface crop residue to aid in prevention of erosion.
Disadvantages, Not sure there really are any
Moldboard plow;
Advantages, Buries surface crop residue better IF that's desired,
Disadvantages, Moldboard plowing tends to create a compaction layer at the depth the plow is operated at, High hp requirement,
I'm sure other will respond with many more advantages and disadvantages of each.
builder2
Bronze Member
With a chisel plow you want to keep your tires out of the area you just chiseled. This requires that you chisel at least the width of the tractor (6' wide 7 shanks 1' O.C.).
With a moldboard , your tire drops into the furrow and you can run 1, 2, 3 or 4 bottoms and not effect the soil to much.
Chisel plowing is better to fight compaction and usually penetrates deeper without inverting the topsoil (8" to 12") where if you are able to plow that deep, you can competely bury the top soil.
Chisel rule of thumb here is 15 hp per shank (105hp) for 7 shanks.
Moldboard is basically the same per bottom (2 bottom=30hp).
Not to many folks here appear to have a 105 hp tractor available (me included).
It would be great to figure out a way to chisel plow with a lower hp tractor as it would be easier to disk and more moisture is retained in the ground.
The coulters on a plow as well as the disks on a chisel plow cut the crop residue and which keeps the implement from clogging up.
I picked up a 7 shank Sitrex spring loaded cultivator last year that works kind of like a chisel plow on previously tilled ground but I have to disk first if there is any kind of residue as it clogs up.
It uses cultivater points and I thought that if you were able to get a narrower twisted point (left and right twist) like chisel plows have that the residue may clear the shanks without disking.
The other problem with this set up compared to a true chisel plow is that the front to back spacing is about a third of what a normal 3ph chisel plow would be which is why the residue clears before contacting the rear shank.
If you were able to solve those issues, I am sure a boatload of smaller tractor owners would be in the market for it.
Paul
With a moldboard , your tire drops into the furrow and you can run 1, 2, 3 or 4 bottoms and not effect the soil to much.
Chisel plowing is better to fight compaction and usually penetrates deeper without inverting the topsoil (8" to 12") where if you are able to plow that deep, you can competely bury the top soil.
Chisel rule of thumb here is 15 hp per shank (105hp) for 7 shanks.
Moldboard is basically the same per bottom (2 bottom=30hp).
Not to many folks here appear to have a 105 hp tractor available (me included).
It would be great to figure out a way to chisel plow with a lower hp tractor as it would be easier to disk and more moisture is retained in the ground.
The coulters on a plow as well as the disks on a chisel plow cut the crop residue and which keeps the implement from clogging up.
I picked up a 7 shank Sitrex spring loaded cultivator last year that works kind of like a chisel plow on previously tilled ground but I have to disk first if there is any kind of residue as it clogs up.
It uses cultivater points and I thought that if you were able to get a narrower twisted point (left and right twist) like chisel plows have that the residue may clear the shanks without disking.
The other problem with this set up compared to a true chisel plow is that the front to back spacing is about a third of what a normal 3ph chisel plow would be which is why the residue clears before contacting the rear shank.
If you were able to solve those issues, I am sure a boatload of smaller tractor owners would be in the market for it.
Paul
Thanks. I have new 90 hp New Holland and am looking for the best way to get my corn fields ready to plant again. Would using a disk be best? Or, can I just use the chisel plow.
My neighbor has a chisel plow, but I don't like to rely on anyone for equipment if I can avoid it. What are some good models/makes of chisel plows that I might be able to find used? Thanks.
My neighbor has a chisel plow, but I don't like to rely on anyone for equipment if I can avoid it. What are some good models/makes of chisel plows that I might be able to find used? Thanks.
builder2
Bronze Member
hotchkiss said:
That kind of depends on what your planting. There are many brands of chisel plows made and here is a link you can do a search on to start looking Plow-Chisel Agriculture North America. Some it seems are not as common such as Brady and they seem to be cheaper then say a Brillion or Glencoe etc..
It would be best to get one that you can easily get parts for in your area.
Paul
radman1
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You can use either a plow or chisel plow. Plows are slow. I would use chisel plow. In farming areas, both can be bought used quite cheaply. Both are relatively old school in farming but will get the job done. I have spent many months using both. I haven't seen a new chisel plow or plow in many years. 90 hp will do both. Probably 4 plow shares or 10-12" chisel plow. The advantage of the chisel is the points can be changed from straight or twisted shanks to sweeps. Sweeps cover a wider surface (V shaped and 10-12" wide) and can be used as tillage machine for weeds. Both will require a disk to smooth out the ground later. Disk by itself may work depending on the vegetation and soil compaction. A heavy disk can do an ok job in some cases. Light wt disk is a waste of time for breaking up the soil.hotchkiss said:
In my area Krause was a very common brand name for chisel plows. However, many different models and makes. Most are of similar design and I doubt it makes a lot of difference for 90 hp. Sme chisel plows will have wings that can be added/removed to get the right width.
N80
Super Member
It seems that a chisel plow would not be too good for breaking up neglected or previously unplowed soil, unless it were extremely heavy duty. A moldboard, I have found, will turn almost anything short of concrete. A moldboard plow is also likely to be less expensive, but as mentioned, they are quite slow.
I would agree that a disk is also unlikely to break up dry or negelected soil very well. I would expect a disk, of almost any weight, to be fine for previously tilled or plowed soil. I just got a new light weight (800 pounds) 7 foot disk and was surprised what a couple of passes down my woods roads was able to do. Granted, the soil was not dry and the seedbed it created was fairly shallow.
The problem of compaction with a moldboard plow becomes evident almost immediately. In our soil, which is heavy in clay, the outside share peels the soil away leaving the bottom of the furrow smooth and shiny. Then, on the next pass, your tire runs through this furrow and even though it gets covered, you know it is even more compacted than before. I doubt this has much bearing on simple food plots but for farming it is easy to see how this would get worse every year.
I have used a two-bottom plow on all of my plots (which had never been plowed before) and then disked them and the effect has been nothing short of amazing. The plow turns the vegetation under and then the disk chops it all up. I like the fact that the plow turns the vegetation over and I'll probably plow each year. But, I've just discovered a nice chisel plow in one of my B-I-L's junk piles (same place I got the 2 bottom plow). It is rusty as all get out and it will need new points, but the shanks and springs look okay. So I may try it out too.
I would agree that a disk is also unlikely to break up dry or negelected soil very well. I would expect a disk, of almost any weight, to be fine for previously tilled or plowed soil. I just got a new light weight (800 pounds) 7 foot disk and was surprised what a couple of passes down my woods roads was able to do. Granted, the soil was not dry and the seedbed it created was fairly shallow.
The problem of compaction with a moldboard plow becomes evident almost immediately. In our soil, which is heavy in clay, the outside share peels the soil away leaving the bottom of the furrow smooth and shiny. Then, on the next pass, your tire runs through this furrow and even though it gets covered, you know it is even more compacted than before. I doubt this has much bearing on simple food plots but for farming it is easy to see how this would get worse every year.
I have used a two-bottom plow on all of my plots (which had never been plowed before) and then disked them and the effect has been nothing short of amazing. The plow turns the vegetation under and then the disk chops it all up. I like the fact that the plow turns the vegetation over and I'll probably plow each year. But, I've just discovered a nice chisel plow in one of my B-I-L's junk piles (same place I got the 2 bottom plow). It is rusty as all get out and it will need new points, but the shanks and springs look okay. So I may try it out too.
Thanks. Although my farming is only for food plots, and one very expensive private farm in south eastern Ohio, I am trying to grow the best crops that I can. My concern as to the moldboard plow is that is to going to turn my limed topsoil under, whereas the chisel plow should only break things up and allow crops to grow better. Do you think that is what I will see. Thus far, all of my plots (approx. 30 acres) have been turned with a three point tiller. Someone needs to write an article in one of these hunting magazines about the true cost of food plots. I have taken five bucks in the 150 inch to 190 inch range over the last six years, but it is getting so expensive I am probably going to have to sell three or four hunts this year for the first time. Thanks again for your help.
radman1
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Chisel plow can go deeper than the plow and any respectable chisel can take it unless using very high hp (>150 hp) on small chisel plow. A multishank subsoiler is probably the best. My 5 shank subsoiler will stop my 200 hp Case IH in its tracks if too deep. Then it takes a large disc to break down the rough surface.N80 said:
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
N80 said:
Actually, a TRUE chisel plow would be BETTER for breaking up previously untilled or "neglected" soil. You would need a real chisel plow(and the HP to handle it) and NOT what many people call a chisel plow, which is merely a heavy field cultivator. The last thing neglected ground needs is further neglect. Moldboard plowing tends to create of enhance the compaction of soil. Chisel plows break up that compaction. Deep ripping or subsoiling would be better yet.
