Choosing the right size electrode.

[BufordBoone]

I have an old scrape blade that came with the farm. It has a couple of pins for angling and offsetting the blade.

Each pin has a bushing that is welded onto the frame. One bushing was totally loose (I could remove it). The other would wiggle.

Best measurement of the steel is 3/8". I figured, with steel that thick, I should use 1/8" 6011 and run it about 110 to 115 amps. I'll cover that with some 3/32" 7018.

I think I got a good weld but the 6011 sure did lay down a lot of metal. Once I added the 7018, there is even more metal. The weld is not pretty (hope it is strong) but that's OK, I'm learning.

Should I have probably gone with a smaller electrode? I thought about moving the electrode faster but didn't think that would get good penetration. Perhaps I should have cranked the amps up a little more?

Anyway, how do you guys decide what size stick electrode to use?

 

[rangerfredbob]

Welds are a little inconsistent (don't blame ya, small circle on a piece of equipment that is awkward) but don't look bad to me, they look to have good penetration, not sure I could have done any better but I am out of practice...

As for rod selection, I use 1/8" for dang near everything, if that's too big I go to flux core (don't have a bottle for MIG yet), 3/32" is nicer at times but if I'm using the arc welder I want it to stick...

 

[gsganzer]

Looks like you might have had your rod angle a little too shallow in your direction of travel, allowing a lot of metal to build. The more upright the rod, the flatter the bead (with more penetration). I have been finding myself using 3/32" rod a little more frequently. I think as I get older (and slower), it's been more forgiving.

 

[BufordBoone]

I'll try practicing a steeper angle.

This is the 3rd time I've tried to repair something. Everything else has been practicing so that I can repair stuff. I hope I'll look at these welds many years from now and be reminded of how much fun I'm having learning.

Thanks, to all.

 

[yomax4]

Well, It's no longer loose ! Good enough. Any worry can be cleaned up with a grinder.

 

[gsganzer]

I'll try practicing a steeper angle.

This is the 3rd time I've tried to repair something. Everything else has been practicing so that I can repair stuff. I hope I'll look at these welds many years from now and be reminded of how much fun I'm having learning.

Thanks, to all.

If you haven't discovered them yourself, this guys welding tutorials are top notch. Welding Tutorials

 

[Tractor Seabee]

With 3/8+ steel I always bevel at last 3/4 deep and run the 6011 hotter than normal. Always good penetration to the bottom of the joint. That joint of yours has not gap so beveling is even more important. Gaps should be same as rod diameter when using 6010 or 6011. Look on the back side of the joint, if there is not a bead showing, penetration is not complete. As an old pipe welder, when doing a bend test on a coupon; no bead on the inside, breaks every time.

Ron

 

[BufordBoone]

With 3/8+ steel I always bevel at last 3/4 deep and run the 6011 hotter than normal. Always good penetration to the bottom of the joint. That joint of yours has not gap so beveling is even more important. Gaps should be same as rod diameter when using 6010 or 6011. Look on the back side of the joint, if there is not a bead showing, penetration is not complete. As an old pipe welder, when doing a bend test on a coupon; no bead on the inside, breaks every time.

Ron

Good advice, no doubt. I don't know how I would have/could have beveled the joint. Even if I was able to do so, I'd have had no way to hold the pieces properly aligned.

There is no practical way to inspect the back side of the joint. Here is a photo of the joint after the 6011 but before the 7018. In thinking about this, I'm pretty happy with the 6011 but think I may have overdone the 7018. I don't mind that it is ugly, so long as it holds.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Good advice, no doubt. I don't know how I would have/could have beveled the joint. Even if I was able to do so, I'd have had no way to hold the pieces properly aligned.

There is no practical way to inspect the back side of the joint. Here is a photo of the joint after the 6011 but before the 7018. In thinking about this, I'm pretty happy with the 6011 but think I may have overdone the 7018. I don't mind that it is ugly, so long as it holds.

View attachment 617699

Did your bushing shrink from the welding? I have had to ream back to original ID. I have a set of the HF adjustable reamers.

Surface appearance is not always an indicator of weld soundness. At my age I no longer always produce good looking beads like the old days; but, I never question my weld soundness. 6013, 7014, and 7018 are heavy slag producers. You have to be sure (even to grinding) that all slag is removed prior to the next pass. Slag pockets will duplicate all the way to the surface. For a bushing such as you have ex-ray quality is not necessary. The stresses caused by the accompanying pin need full penetration for the depth of the surrounding material though.

I have several cutting burrs I use with a die grinder to bevel out such jobs as yours. Tack three places, grind out the bevel, re-tack, then grind out the first tacks. Do alignment with the pin in place while tacking.

I bought a quick attach addition for my BX FEL bucket; the factory MIG welds failed on the first lift. The weld beads were on the surface only, looked good, but broke on the first applied stress. It as a fight to get it replaced on warranty, but I prevailed.

Ron

 

[BufordBoone]

Did your bushing shrink from the welding?

Ron

I don't think it shrank. The pin goes in just fine now.

Thanks for all the recommendations. If it breaks, I'll know how to do it correctly.