Ck weird electrical.

[pickeringchris]

Sorry I didn't get back earlier. Was away. Just got back.

I hear a click when I turn low beams on and another click when I turn high beams on.... Most of what you have said in your above posts is beyond my comprehension James. Sorry. I just don't have experience in this area. I do not know where the head light relays are. My service manual doesn't tell me. Ive only got so far as to test voltage at the lights. 3.1-3.2V.....But only when switch is on low beam.... I'm gonna try to get a friend to stop by that is better with this stuff. In the mean time Im gonna post a new thread asking if anyone knows where the relays are located. Cheers.

 

[pickeringchris]

I located the relay. It's mounted to the frame of the air prefilter near the - battery terminal.
There is no schematic on the relay. So I don't have a clue how to test it. I cannot get continuity between Any if the pins.

 

[k0ua]

I located the relay. It's mounted to the frame of the air prefilter near the - battery terminal.
There is no schematic on the relay. So I don't have a clue how to test it. I cannot get continuity between Any if the pins.

The relay in your hand in a "twin Relay" in other words, two relay's in one box. That is why it has so many terminals. 8 instead of 4. Two coils, and two sets of contacts. Hopefully your friend will be able to lend a hand.

James K0UA

 

[pickeringchris]

The relay in your hand in a "twin Relay" in other words, two relay's in one box. That is why it has so many terminals. 8 instead of 4. Two coils, and two sets of contacts. Hopefully your friend will be able to lend a hand.

James K0UA

I am now getting 12.7 volts to the relay but nothing to the lights.... Its gotta be the relay

 

[k0ua]

I am now getting 12.7 volts to the relay but nothing to the lights.... Its gotta be the relay

Can you take the relay cover off or is it pretty well sealed up.?.. can you read the schematic well enough to see the wire color designations on the schematic.. I can't see your well enough, Even when I "blow it Up" it is too blury for my older eyes to make out the wire colors lettering.. Example a wire labeled 3 OR would be a 3mm thick orange wire. There should be a
"legend" or chart showing you in the front of the manual somewhere showing you what the designations mean.. My point is if you can figure out the high current feed wire color, that comes thru the 20 amp fuse and "prick" the insulation at the relay of the proper color wire, you would know for sure that the high current feed voltage is getting to the relay.. dont forget that the LO and HI beam control voltages that come from the combination switch (the light switch) are also going to be 12.7 volts to "pull up or energize" the relay coil. But this 12.7 volts is NOT what turns on your lights, it just energizes the coil so the moving part of the relay switch contacts will move over and make contact with the non-moving part of the relay switch contact. to send high current 12.7 volts over to the filiaments of the lamps. If I could see what the wire colors were I would tell you which ones to test.. You have established the relay makes an audible "click" when you turn the combination (light) switch from off to either 1 or 2 (LO and HI beams) so you know the control voltage is getting to the coil and energizing the coil, so if the non moving contact of the switch part of each circuit of the relay is not making good contact inside, (certainly possible if was full of water and corroded by now) Then yes you have the solution to the repair in your hand. Replace the twin relay. If the cost is not prohibitive, you could just get one and replace it. BUT, if that don't fix it, and you have made a troubleshooting mistake, then you are out the cost of the relay, and now have a good spare. Up to you to keep on trying to logic it out or to take your best shot, (the relay) and just change it out. Good luck

James K0UA

 

[Coyote machine]

Can you verify, (state) exactly how you determined the headlights are good?
You say that now you have 12V at the twin relay? How did you get it to read 12V when before you only had 3+V?
Can you connect either headlight connector to a known good headlight NOT connected to the tractor, to see if it lights on either high OR low beam?
If it does then it's NOT the twin relay, and we can pickup from there without guessing.

 

[pickeringchris]

Lol. I'm totally lost. I know the relay works cause I just went to the dealer and plugged it into a new machine. I was once gettin 3.1-3.2 v at the headlights by testing the harness that plugs into them. Now I get nothing. I went over every connector. Cleaned it and packed with dielectric grease.
Now I have the combination switch out. Can't get continuity across any terminals.

 

[pickeringchris]

Ok. Identified colors of switch conductors. Switch is working. Or should I say, I have continuity between correct leads. Could it still be a bad switch? I could check ohms but don't know what numbers are normal.

 

[Coyote machine]

Ok. Identified colors of switch conductors. Switch is working. Or should I say, I have continuity between correct leads. Could it still be a bad switch? I could check ohms but don't know what numbers are normal.

Seems you found a way to verify it is NOT the twin relay. Now you need to verify the switch. If possible I would do it 'live'. If you can find the wire going to the switch, which feeds it 12V, then test the wires where they plug into the switch's connector, on the backside of the switch, as you rotate the switch from off to low to high, etc. and see if there is power, (12V) being supplied to a terminal, or more as the switch goes through it's positions. It would seem possible the switch might be bogus, but like the relay until you test it don't go replacing it. Is it possible you got water into the headlight switch and it might have shorted out when you first turned it on? You can look for burn marks on the back of the switch housing or arc marks at the connector terminals too. Or your dealer could lend you a good switch to test out like you did with your relay?!:confused3:
Don't give up- you're almost there - it's always a process of elimination to find the bad component or wire, etc.
Pick you chin up off the floor- not too much further to go....:thumbsup:

 

[pickeringchris]

I took the relay to the dealer and tried it out on a new machine. It works.

A friend dropped by today that is a good trouble shooter. He can also read schematics. He was only here for a short time but isolated the problem. I will post a picture. Hope you guys can see it.
Basically, somewhere between the 20amp fuse and the relay voltage drops from 12 to 3.

 

[pickeringchris]

Sorry for posting so much guys.
I hope this is my last post. Lol.

So I found the 2 leads on the light switch that show continuity when the switch is on low beam. I identified the 12 volt source with my multi meter on a known ground. Then I took a voltage reading across that switch. 3 volts. Lol.

I will pickup a new switch and let you know how I make out.

Thanks so much.

 

[Coyote machine]

I took the relay to the dealer and tried it out on a new machine. It works.

A friend dropped by today that is a good trouble shooter. He can also read schematics. He was only here for a short time but isolated the problem. I will post a picture. Hope you guys can see it.
Basically, somewhere between the 20amp fuse and the relay voltage drops from 12 to 3.

Seems like a multi-stranded wire is broken, possibly under the insulation, between the 20 amp fuse and where it terminates at the relays. I would find the wire where it comes off the fuse and move it, pull on it, test it until you find the point of loss, or where it's pinched, frayed, chaffed, etc. Looks like it might be green from fuse to relays.

 

[pickeringchris]

A follow up to my post 51....

So When the switch is connected to the tractor it has 12 volts going to it but does not pass thru....
I removed it from the tractor and hooked it inline with multi meter and directly to battery.... This time it has 12 volts pass thru the switch...... Im lost... Just gonna get the dealer to pick it up. :-(

 

[k0ua]

Looks like we are going in 2 different directions.. I though we had relay's that "pulled up" when the switch was thrown.. and we had a voltage drop from the output of the fuse heading to the input of the relay's. 3 volts on the green wires, and 12 volts leaving the fuse. So high resistance joint between those two points. This has got to be in a connector (most likely) judging by what we know happened to tractor. (thorough washing). The switch just controls the relay coils, and if they pull up, respectively and release as the switch is operated from OFF to 1 low and 2 hi then the switch is good.. But if what the other troubleshooter found is correct, that there is a severe voltage drop between the fuse on the relay switch moveable contact, then lets focus there.. Note to CM.. I have also been working with Chris on the PM "channel" . So I am trying to keep up over here too. Hang in there Chris, we ARE going to fix this.

James K0UA

 

[k0ua]

A follow up to my post 51....

So When the switch is connected to the tractor it has 12 volts going to it but does not pass thru....
I removed it from the tractor and hooked it inline with multi meter and directly to battery.... This time it has 12 volts pass thru the switch...... Im lost... Just gonna get the dealer to pick it up. :-(

Chris you likely made an measurement error.. easy to do. see my post below.. Remember if the relay is clicking when you go from off to 1 low.. and clicks again as you go to 2 hi beam. the switch is likely good. The other troublshooter found 12 volts at the output of the fuse, but 3 volts at the green wire/input of the relay.. THAT is a problem a BIG problem and the BIG problem lies between the output of the fuse and the input of the relay.. Trace that wirening by hand until you find the issue. Dont give up.. remember the mechanic at the dealership may not be any better at fixing electrical problems than you are.. What one man can do, another man can do.. YOU can do this repair..

 

[k0ua]

Don't worry about posting so much.. this is your thread, and we are here to help you. As long as you want the help. I haven't given up. Anyone can make mistakes, and then you go about correcting those mistakes and moving forward to the solution. Think of the unbridled joy you will have when you find and correct the problem..Sometimes troublshooting is one step forward and 2 steps back.. that is just normal operation for most of us.

 

[Coyote machine]

What James said, and don't take it to the dealer now or buy a new switch.
The problem is in the wiring from the 20Amp fuse to where the 'green' wire then runs to the twin relay.
Find where the voltage drop occurs along that wire and your problem is solved.
Anything else is wasting all our time. Please follow the advice we're giving you to see this to completion.

 

[murphy1244]

With these tractors checking your grounds seem very important.

 

[pickeringchris]

You guys should be motivational speakers! This I soooooo frustrating. Problem now is that wire that goes from the 20amp fuse to the relay is bundled with various other wires and harnesses and winds its way thru nooks and crannies. I'm not sure i wanna tackle that. If I do, I'm gonna have to take the loader off cause its in the way big time. I'm gonna chill with my kids right now. Need a stress reliever.

 

[k0ua]

You guys should be motivational speakers! This I soooooo frustrating. Problem now is that wire that goes from the 20amp fuse to the relay is bundled with various other wires and harnesses and winds its way thru nooks and crannies. I'm not sure i wanna tackle that. If I do, I'm gonna have to take the loader off cause its in the way big time. I'm gonna chill with my kids right now. Need a stress reliever.

Good Idea,, take a break, and let it sit.. It will look better and seem less of a mountain later. Remember We have NOT given up.

James K0UA