CK35 HST, nothing at key, no clicks, 100% good battery

[k0ua]

Chris, I had forgotten that was you with the #2 piston death. Yes you have seen worse... a lot worse than a corroded cable or a $5 relay or two.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Just wondering here, but I've had many cars and several boats during my misbegotten life but I've never seen this stealth battery cable corrosion problem except on Kioti Tractors. That leads me to believe that these Kioti cables must be inferior in some way (contaminated? metallurgy? etc.). Not that we can do anything about it but what do others think?

 

[k0ua]

Here's the tutorial I linked to on my Kioti site:

How to Use a Multimeter

I don't claim it's the greatest but it's something

It is not that bad, and a good start. I don't agree with them about never stick the probes into a electrical outlet at home of course. Because that is a perfectly safe thing to do as long as you have the meter on the correct scale/range in AC mode, make sure the insulation on your probes is in good shape and use common sense in inserting and removing the probes. If you do things in a safe manner and think about what you are doing there is no danger. It is like saying "never fire a firearm, because it is dangerous". Well of course it is dangerous, just like sticking the probes of a multimeter into a receptacle. But that doesn't mean we should not do something because it is dangerous. All we need is an understanding of the dangers, and know how to deal with them. Never operate an automobile on a freeway, as it is dangerous. Yep, sure is. But overall the little tutorial was not bad at all.

 

[k0ua]

Just wondering here, but I've had many cars and several boats during my misbegotten life but I've never seen this stealth battery cable corrosion problem except on Kioti Tractors. That leads me to believe that these Kioti cables must be inferior in some way (contaminated? metallurgy? etc.). Not that we can do anything about it but what do others think?

I have seen several of the corroded cables on other vehicles. I believe it is caused when the batteries may not have the best post to case seal. and sulphuric acid fumes come out around the posts. But I have had no trouble with my Kioti (of course it was no ox id applied on day one) but thru they years I have seen my share of corroded battery cables. It is also possible the Kioti battery cables may not quite have the best seal of their plastic coating over the copper either. Of course all lead acid batteries are nasty dangerous things that are not to be take lightly. The technology is centuries old, and we haven't done much to find something cleaner and safer. But if you are as old as I am, who hasn't faced the clean up of a lead acid battery spill of some kind. Who doesn't have rust and maybe even holes in their battery carrier pan of their vehicle? Unless it is one of the newer plastic ones. Yeah, lead acid starting batteries suck on a good day...

 

[sixdogs]

There are lots of electrical issues around and not with Kioti any more than anything else. There are threads on problems that go way back and there are many examples of bad grounds where the owner tried everything but the ground to fix the problem. I have said many times that with any problem to start with the easiest answer first and work up from there. With electrical stuff, anything odd telegraphs a bad ground so if you have an electrical issue go with that right after the fuses.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I have seen several of the corroded cables on other vehicles. ...

Me too, but I usually see it at or near the terminals, not in the middle of the cable hidden inside the insulation.

 

[k0ua]

Me too, but I usually see it at or near the terminals, not in the middle of the cable hidden inside the insulation.

Hm... I was assuming these were all at the terminals.. Are you saying these are in the middle of the cable?

 

[ritcheyvs]

Hm... I was assuming these were all at the terminals.. Are you saying these are in the middle of the cable?

Maybe CenTex Chris can provide details but i think he said the cable looked totally OK but there was a "bad spot" some distance from the battery clamp but still close enough that removing/reconnecting battery terminals flexed that spot. I think others actually dissected bad cables; maybe they can add their observations.

 

[CenTex Chris]

Yes the original cable looks fine externally, I could take a photo of it now that it's out of the tractor. But I'm not sure that would tell you anything.

On mine I'm thinking the problem was up near the clamp end. No corrosion in view, but the cable where it goes into the clamp seemed a bit *too* wiggly. Most likely I had induced that problem myself.

I wonder, if this cable was back on the tractor and I had a FLIR camera (which I don't, but would very much like to own), if it would show a hotspot somewhere along the cable where the break or internal corrosion is, since the resistance is there...?

Or, if I had a DC clamp meter, would that tell me something too.

Doesn't matter now that I've replaced that cable with a $10 part from AutoZone. Which works -- and that's the main thing -- however, now I have an item on the tractor that does not have a metric nut on it like all the others are. I can do a lot of things on this CK35 with a 10mm socket and a 12mm socket. Now I have to keep a 1/2" socket on board just for that one nut on the neg. batt. clamp. Which is no big deal, really, but still. It just feels *unnatural.* And I miss the clamp orientation on the original, which made the nut much more accessible than this replacement does. And I miss how the original was labeled Daedong.

The relays and a batt. cable are no longer "factory" now. But hey, it's a tractor.

One that works!

For the moment.

 

[fried1765]

Yes the original cable looks fine externally, I could take a photo of it now that it's out of the tractor. But I'm not sure that would tell you anything.

On mine I'm thinking the problem was up near the clamp end. No corrosion in view, but the cable where it goes into the clamp seemed a bit *too* wiggly. Most likely I had induced that problem myself.

I wonder, if this cable was back on the tractor and I had a FLIR camera (which I don't, but would very much like to own), if it would show a hotspot somewhere along the cable where the break or internal corrosion is, since the resistance is there...?

Or, if I had a DC clamp meter, would that tell me something too.

Doesn't matter now that I've replaced that cable with a $10 part from AutoZone. Which works -- and that's the main thing -- however, now I have an item on the tractor that does not have a metric nut on it like all the others are. I can do a lot of things on this CK35 with a 10mm socket and a 12mm socket. Now I have to keep a 1/2" socket on board just for that one nut on the neg. batt. clamp. Which is no big deal, really, but still. It just feels *unnatural.* And I miss the clamp orientation on the original, which made the nut much more accessible than this replacement does. And I miss how the original was labeled.
The relays and a batt. cable are no longer "factory" now. But hey, it's a tractor.

One that works!

For the moment.

You already have a 10mm socket, and a 12mm socket.
Just add a 13mm socket, ......and put the 1/2" socket back in your big tool box.