Loader CK35 Loader Problem

[KiotiJason]

I assume back dragging with a open 4 in 1 won't cause this damage?

 

[k0ua]

I assume back dragging with a open 4 in 1 won't cause this damage?

The key to back dragging and not damaging anything is to have loader in float mode, and dont have the lip of the bucket vertical, let alone fully dumped pointed backwards. When the loader is NOT in float mode, they hydraulic cylinders are locked solid and neither the bucket cylinders nor the lift cylinders can move much, so sometimes something has to give. In this case you saw what gave.

If you are in float mode and have the bucket positioned so that unmovable materiel's cannot slip past the lip easily and the loader arms cannot lift and go over these things, then yes something bad may happen.

 

[KiotiJason]

The key to back dragging and not damaging anything is to have loader in float mode, and dont have the lip of the bucket vertical, let alone fully dumped pointed backwards. When the loader is NOT in float mode, they hydraulic cylinders are locked solid and neither the bucket cylinders nor the lift cylinders can move much, so sometimes something has to give. In this case you saw what gave.

If you are in float mode and have the bucket positioned so that unmovable materiel's cannot slip past the lip easily and the loader arms cannot lift and go over these things, then yes something bad may happen.

Thanks this was something I wasn't aware of, however I do a lot of back dragging with a the back edge of an opened 4 in 1 as opposed to a straight FEL bucket. Am I risking the same damage? im not using the front edge more the inside edge... Not sure if I sm explaining myself well..LOL

 

[k0ua]

Thanks this was something I wasn't aware of, however I do a lot of back dragging with a the back edge of an opened 4 in 1 as opposed to a straight FEL bucket. Am I risking the same damage? im not using the front edge more the inside edge... Not sure if I sm explaining myself well..LOL

Well, I don't have any experience with a 4n1, but still I think any backdragging should be done in float mode. This allows the lift cylinders to "float" up and over something immovable. The bucket cylinders will still be locked at whatever angle you set them at. so think in terms of "If I hit a stump, what would happen?" I have used backdragging for many years, and never had a problem, but if you put down pressure on the loader from the hydraulic cylinders, then the lift cylinders are locked solid, plus you are putting a lot of weight on the system also.

 

[KiotiJason]

Well, I don't have any experience with a 4n1, but still I think any backdragging should be done in float mode. This allows the lift cylinders to "float" up and over something immovable. The bucket cylinders will still be locked at whatever angle you set them at. so think in terms of "If I hit a stump, what would happen?" I have used backdragging for many years, and never had a problem, but if you put down pressure on the loader from the hydraulic cylinders, then the lift cylinders are locked solid, plus you are putting a lot of weight on the system also.

Thanks James, I get it and think about it I'm more likely to damage something with the way I have been doing things with the 4 in 1. I'll make sure to use the float from now on and go easy. Cheers

 

[johny54]

I'm kinda glad I fell on this thread. I just bought a DK 50 2009 and I noticed before buying that when the bucket was curled in the frame holding the cylinder was touching the loader frame.

I looked at the linkage on the right side and could see they had a bend in them an I figured they must have been back dragging.. bought it anyway. . Good price but was hoping the fix wouldn't even that bad..

What would be the best bet.. should I order the same ones.. I see they are about 60$ each. Or should I get some made with a bit better mettal? The bucket works very good. Only way I see it is when the bucket is curled and that touches the frame.. figure it's good until summer as I don't back drag, I have a blower

 

[Coyote machine]

I'm kinda glad I fell on this thread. I just bought a DK 50 2009 and I noticed before buying that when the bucket was curled in the frame holding the cylinder was touching the loader frame.

I looked at the linkage on the right side and could see they had a bend in them an I figured they must have been back dragging.. bought it anyway. . Good price but was hoping the fix wouldn't even that bad..

What would be the best bet.. should I order the same ones.. I see they are about 60$ each. Or should I get some made with a bit better mettal? The bucket works very good. Only way I see it is when the bucket is curled and that touches the frame.. figure it's good until summer as I don't back drag, I have a blower

It depends on what you want. You went in knowing there is a problem, but if you are aware of it and don't do the offending task- backdragging, then it will likely stay the same. BUT, if it bothers you I would be inclined to replace the bent 1/2 moon brackets with new ones. I would NOT however beef them up. I had the same problem, which I caused when I first bought my DK-35. I bent the first pair, had dealer install new ones, bent them too; then beefed then up with a side angle piece welded on. I then bent those. Eventually decided I needed a bigger loader capacity and traded up to the DK-. I haven't bent those yet, but I have wracked the loader to some extent; when lowering it one side hits the ground before the other.
My point is beefing them up will just allow you to bend/break something more expensive in the long run, IF you continue the same operation, backdragging, that the prior owner used. Why set yourself up for potential more expense if you, unlike me can make a point to not backdragging to the point of loader damage?

 

[seacap04]

Johny54, If you have read this thread than you will have seen a post by me where I doubled the thickness of my curl brackets. I did it mainly to cut down time as dealer is an hour away and new ones were a couple weeks away. I had new ones fabricated in 2 days at less cost. They are 3/8 inch plate doubled on each end for bearing surface. To save fab cost and time new ones were made out of 3/4 plate. I have not had any issues with new ones. Anyway my cylinders have been hitting the loader arms since before I owned the tractor. Everyone this means with old curl brackets and before I bent them. Deflection in arm minor, maybe 1/32 inch or less. If I live in boulder country. For every 10 square feet of land I clear there is probably a couple tons of boulders to move. Like icebergs, what you see may only be the tip.

 

[johny54]

Johny54, If you have read this thread than you will have seen a post by me where I doubled the thickness of my curl brackets. I did it mainly to cut down time as dealer is an hour away and new ones were a couple weeks away. I had new ones fabricated in 2 days at less cost. They are 3/8 inch plate doubled on each end for bearing surface. To save fab cost and time new ones were made out of 3/4 plate. I have not had any issues with new ones. Anyway my cylinders have been hitting the loader arms since before I owned the tractor. Everyone this means with old curl brackets and before I bent them. Deflection in arm minor, maybe 1/32 inch or less. If I live in boulder country. For every 10 square feet of land I clear there is probably a couple tons of boulders to move. Like icebergs, what you see may only be the tip.

Wow... you guy's are hard on those leader's. . Lol I'm the kind of guy that's way to paranoid to break something and doubt I will be back dragging anytime soon.. the cylinder is OK the bucket is just a tad off on one side.. I don't use the loader much for now and in the summer it's going to be for pulling a few dead logs on the lawn from the river and mowing some lawn.. 8 acres on a cub cadet get's hard on the back.. Dk50. . AC and the tunes sound very good to me.. haha those brackets must be made week for a reason.. when the loader goes to the max I figure it's the first thing to go. At 40$ a peice it's not so bad... I'll order them and replace at some point.. Are you guy's saying that even if I change the U brackets the are will still touch the boom frame? Or would that give me my extra inch.

I know someone helped me today with the blower set and now I'm not slamming on the ground.. :0 )

 

[DK35vince]

Well, I don't have any experience with a 4n1, but still I think any backdragging should be done in float mode. This allows the lift cylinders to "float" up and over something immovable. The bucket cylinders will still be locked at whatever angle you set them at. so think in terms of "If I hit a stump, what would happen?" I have used backdragging for many years, and never had a problem, but if you put down pressure on the loader from the hydraulic cylinders, then the lift cylinders are locked solid, plus you are putting a lot of weight on the system also.

I backdrag all the time.
Haven't bent or broken anything yet.
Backdragging in float mode never worked for me. All it does is float over the humps/bumps I'm wanting to knock off.