Loader CK35 Loader Problem

chuck172 · Jan 6, 2015

Please help me to understand. When back-grading, say the bucket is level, no problem. If you curl the bucket as to dump the bucket, and the front wheels come off the ground, and back grade, It's this position that stresses out the linkage. Is this correct?

pmsmechanic · Jan 6, 2015

chuck172 said:
Please help me to understand. When back-grading, say the bucket is level, no problem. If you curl the bucket as to dump the bucket, and the front wheels come off the ground, and back grade, It's this position that stresses out the linkage. Is this correct?

Correct. You don't even need the front wheels off the ground. All that's needed is to come against something in the ground that won't move or even the ground it's self while back blading with the bucket curled most of the way down. It's not only small tractors that have this problem. It happens to large tractors too. And the color of the tractor doesn't matter either. They are all vulnerable.

chuck172 · Jan 6, 2015

Well I guess I've been guilty and lucky. I always backgrade with the loader blade.

k0ua · Jan 6, 2015

chuck172 said:
Please help me to understand. When back-grading, say the bucket is level, no problem. If you curl the bucket as to dump the bucket, and the front wheels come off the ground, and back grade, It's this position that stresses out the linkage. Is this correct?

Chuck you would a lot better off if the loader was in float when back-dragging. That way the loader arms are free to "float" up when it hits something immovable. The weight of the loader and bucket will smooth out material like gravel and dirt. You will do a lot better job, and a lot less strain on the parts. Also don't point the loader bucket down or even any where 90 degrees down. Sure you can give the lip of the bucket some down angle to accumulate material under the bucket to be distributed into the low spots, after all that is the whole idea when smoothing, but trying to drag back material in a locked cylinder and vertical or even reverse angle position is what caused this breakage of parts.

k0ua · Jan 6, 2015

chuck172 said:
Well I guess I've been guilty and lucky. I always backgrade with the loader blade.

If you backgrade in float position you will not have a problem. I have hit hidden rocks and even low stumps I did not see, and it causes no problems, the bucket and arms just slide over the immovable object without any real strain at all.

chuck172 · Jan 6, 2015

I think I get it now, the no-go position of the bucket blade is 90*. Just a back-tilt is o.k.

Coyote machine · Jan 6, 2015

chuck172 said:
I think I get it now, the no-go position of the bucket blade is 90*. Just a back-tilt is o.k.

90 or more is the worst, use float and less than 90.

TBDonnelly · Jan 6, 2015

pmsmechanic said:
Correct. You don't even need the front wheels off the ground. All that's needed is to come against something in the ground that won't move or even the ground it's self while back blading with the bucket curled most of the way down. It's not only small tractors that have this problem. It happens to large tractors too. And the color of the tractor doesn't matter either. They are all vulnerable.

There is a particular tractor that is immune to this potential damaging effect of aggressive back dragging where the hydraulic cylinders are near full extension causing the bucket edge to be 90* or better (angled back toward the tractor). That tractor would be.........a tractor without a front end loader

. (Me bad :ashamed

However, I believe the vast majority of tractor owners would definitely prefer a tractor with a front end loader for the many other benefits it allows. I try to think of the front loader as a wheel barrel with hydraulics arms, not a bull dozer. There are 3 point attachments that are much better at ground engaging activities.

seacap04 · Jan 7, 2015

This post will get people talking. A couple of years ago I turned my curl brackets on my DK45 into pretzels. The brackets are made out of 3/8" plate with the ends doubled to provide pin bearing surface. Local dealer a couple hours away wanted about $85/ea plus shipping and figured a couple weeks delivery. I had a plate shop cut new ones out of 3/4" plate and a machine shop bore the pin holes and threaded pin retainer holes. My cost was about $55/ea and I was down for less than 2 days. At the time down time was critical. Yes I greatly strengthened the curl function of the loader. Yes I took it easy for a while looking for the next weak spot. It has now been a couple of years and no problems.