clay problems

   / clay problems
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I'm going to build a screen soon and start processing the clay / topsoil mixes I have and do exactly what you're saying. Likely mix in about 30% sand to break it up a bit and provide some drainage. Three people have stopped by and wanted to buy some already.
 
   / clay problems #12  
This is outside my area of personal experiance, but if it were my driveway I'd skip the fabric over the 5" stuff.

Vehicles do weigh an awfull lot more today then they did 100 years ago, but on the other hand this sort of construction is still used in Alaska albiet with much deeper fills of the coarse stuff. I don't know if they use a fabric over the coarse stuff today, but they surely didn't 50 years ago - fabric hasn't been around that long, IIRC it was first used for airfields in the Vietnam War.

In the Texas and the southeast you see mostly chemical stabilization, either lime, portland cement, fly-ash or asphalt (especially foamed asphalt). Not much of that in the Northeast. The Forest Service recently did some cement stabilization on the Kankamagus Highway in NH as a demonstration project, with not so great results - probably due to unfamiliarity with the process.
 
   / clay problems #13  
Clay, ya I have 7 1/2 acres of the stuff, great fun when it's wet.

Last winter a bog hole developed in my drive because the previous owner didn't do anything right and water was draining across drive. We get many large delivery trucks in here and had a real mess. I filled the hole, about 10 foot long and a foot deep with 5 inch rock then put 3/4 crusher run over the top. Now it's one of the best sections in the whole 300 foot drive. Looks to me like you will be OK with what you are doing....
 
   / clay problems #14  
I have clay now at my home in Los Angeles. This is a city lot that just happened to land in a bunch of what we call adobe.

Sunset Magazine is big out here because of its California focus. It has good sections on soil makeup/composition. The information is available elsewhere including the web.

But essentially, clay is very fine particles. Loam has a mixture of these fine particles along with organic materials of varying sizes. (I am over-simplifying here quite a bit.)

The 'fine' nature of those clay particles give it good and bad aspects. It holds nutrients, and it holds water, and it lacks oxygen. That first aspect is typically good for plants. The second aspect is typically bad for plants. Plants do need the water, but they will suffocate without the oxygen.

After years and years of trying to find a silver bullet for clay, I have concluded that there isn't one. For plants you need to kind of get the clay over into the 'loam' category. This means you have to add organic material. You have to add non-organic material of larger particle-size. Then you have to let all that stuff mix together. Then you have to let the organic stuff decompose over a period of time. Then you have to make sure that all of the chemical makeup is then OK.

Etc.

My personal experience leads me to believe that when you have clay, you have a never-ending condition that requires all of these activities of adding materials. It probably isn't REALLY never-ending. But it probably just takes a very very long time. Year 1 you add organics and larger particles. Year 5 you have to do it again because the 'clay' condition is back.

My other observation is that you are only able to physically add material to the topmost layers of clay. This causes problems itself. Even if you have a nice top layer of loam, because of years and years of adding material, there will be a layer of clay underneath which traps the flow of your water.

What I do now is try to find plants that are clay happy. Instead of trying to fool mother nature I just try to find plants that are happy in the conditions that I have. Over the long, long-run, this itself will change the soil a bit by adding roots of organic composition, and top layers of trees which eventually die and become decomposed into the new organic soil.

This is LONG, long-term!

Your question was actually about having clay under a road base. Can't help there. The only thing I'd like to build with my soil is an adobe house! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif But I see in this thread that folks have learned to work with it and have learned to appreciate its qualities.

Good luck.
 
   / clay problems #15  
Martin,
I lived in Northern California for around 42 years and approximately 30 of that on a 50x100 lot that was all adobe. I found that like you said that adobe is great for plants if altered. I used around 500 pounds of gypsum mixed with sand and organic material in my back yard garden/lawn it worked great. I also found that the un-altered adobe behind my property would work up well if I watered it lightly and waited for a day or so before working it up it was easy. With out watering it was like concrete.
During the rainy season it was fine if it had not been worked up. If it had been worked it was like gumbo.
I do not envy Jim having the amount of clay that he has to work with.
Farwell
 
   / clay problems
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Kankamagus Hwy....One of the most beautiful road in America! Lots of fun in a sports car....not an RV /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Yeah, I'll just top it with the 1.5" material. Sounds like from others experience that it should work well.
 
   / clay problems
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Just to be clear....I have about two feet of gorgeous topsoil, then I get into the dreaded clay. The top grows amazingly well so the surface roots get their oxygen and the tap roots can get water. It's a nice mix if you're a plant.

I'm dealing with the road now.......nasty stuff once you get four feet down. I'd imagine it goes clear to bedrock.
 
   / clay problems #19  
Clay is also nice to have if you ever plan a pond or lake.

If you were in GA the clay color would match your tractor too.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / clay problems #20  
If you have access to lots of sand and cow manure, you can make some really good topsoil... use about 1/3 of each and mix it well... The sand and organic material will wick out the moisture from the clay, yet the clay will hold enough moisture for plants to grow well.

Makes good soil in one season!
 

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