clutch satety switch failure 2006 284le

[rrboomer]

Hello, I usually lurk and have learned a lot about our little tractors. I'm a rr engr. Its a kick after running around with 6 to 18k hp to play with my 25hp tractor. The problem I had the other day when I tried to start my tractor was I got nothing from the start switch. The vom said no power to the starter. I jumped the starter to plow the snow we had.I thought I had a bad key switch. It was the clutch satety switch that had crumbled. The plastic end that the leads come out of had failed . I twisted the 2 leads together and will get a replacement locally.I had the brake light do the same thing at 50 hrs. It was a similar switch.I was wondering if any one else had similar failures. The key start acted funny for a while before it failed. The plunger of the switch is protected by the threaded shaft so adjustment could not have caused it. It goes into the hole and thats it. thanks joe

 

[Soundguy]

What size thread/pitch, and how deep is it? ( any chance a NS switch from another make may fit it? )

Don't seem like I see too many NS problems listed here.. maybee it is an isolated incedent???

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

maybee it is an isolated incedent???

Naw, interlock switch damage is quite common. They're pretty light duty, but the usual problem is switch positioning. Both brake and clutch switches resemble spark plugs with two lock nuts. The outside nut is removed, the switch inserted through a hole in a bracket, the inside nut is adjusted so that the pedal barely touches the nylon switch pin. It should never touch the metal part of the switch housing. Then the outside nut locks the whole thing in place. Damage usually occurs when
1. switch is incorrectly positioned (too close to the pedal)
2. outside locknut comes loose.

Switches are sloppily installed at the factory, and unfortunately overlooked by some sellers/dealers. Owners should be aware, and adjust/tighten switches themselves initially - then put it on their personal schedule for periodic maintenance

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Mine are working fine at 2+ years and around 200 hours. The tractor was delivered with a faulty ignition switch, but the duplicate warranty replacement part has functioned fine. My clutch safety switch did come loose and back out and I have ripped out the wires once with brush(re-routed rear electrical wire above the deck plates after that), but the switch itself has functioned fine.

 

[3RRL]

Greg nailed it perfectly here.
Look out for faulty connections and loose grounds...very common on these.

Naw, interlock switch damage is quite common. They're pretty light duty, but the usual problem is switch positioning. Both brake and clutch switches resemble spark plugs with two lock nuts. The nut outside nut is removed, the switch inserted through a hole in a bracket, then the inside nut is adjusted so that the pedal barely touches the nylon switch pin. Then the outside nut locks the whole thing in place. Damage usually occurs when
1. switch is incorrectly positioned (too close to the pedal)
2. outside locknut comes loose.

Switches are sloppily installed at the factory, and unfortunately overlooked by some sellers/dealers. Owners should be aware, and adjust/tighten switches themselves initially - then put it on their personal schedule for periodic maintenance

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

My 2003 Jinma 254 has about 425 hours and no problems what so ever other than replacing the t-stat and putting in a new batter and the American Made starter. Oh ya, I also put in a block heater. I have never touched the valves or clutch either, the dealer said he did it at the time of sale. I have changed all the fluids at 50 hours then again at 250 hours and do the oil and filter every 20 hours.

Chris

 

[joerocker]

and do the oil and filter every 20 hours.

Chris

WOW! That's a LOT. Can I ask WHY? That sounds like the schedule for a lawnmower, not a diesel tractor. More like every 100 hours or once a year is more reasonable to me. I think you're throwing away your money... JMHO

 

[Diamondpilot]

You are right, that is a lot. I do it every 50 hours. I am not sure why I typed 20. Even 50 is a lot but most of the work I do is dusty and in the big picture it does not cost much. I bought a case of filters, 12 Fram PH3950, on ebay for 15 dollars and I get the oil, 6 qts, at TSC for about 10 bucks.

Chris

 

[Red55]

50 hours is not a lot! One of the dealers (think Tommy but not sure) posted about a few people coming in with engine damage that were on 100 hr oil changes. He recommended 50 hr changes for engine oil. Now if you're using it every day and racking up the hours it may not be as critical. But oil is cheap comparitively speaking. And of course it is your tractor and your money -Ed

 

[Diamondpilot]

Red 55, I meant I was changing it a lot. About 3 times a year. Not a lot of hours like I think you meant.


Chris