clutch satety switch failure 2006 284le

[RonMar]

Joe - considering the clutch interlock switch as a pedal travel limiter puts you in the group who've simply got things installed/adjusted incorrectly. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the travel limiter is a hex head bolt that screws into the bellhousing. If installed properly and adjusted correctly, the clutch interlock should be defeated by pushing on the pedal as little as a quarter inch. Pushing in the clutch pedal is supposed to RELEASE the pin (or button), not push it in. Switch position is adjusted when the pedal is homed (in the UP position). Insert the switch through the hole till just the pin (or button) is depressed by the pedal, then lock the switch in place. That way, the pedal never touches the switch body at all.

Or else, perhaps you've got the wrong switch in the wrong bracket. Clutch switch and brake switch are not interchangeable

//greg//

Greq
I think you may have your switches backward. On my 284, the last thing the clutch lever on the side of the transmission, does before comming to rest against that stop bolt at full down pedal, is to press in on the clutch switch button to complete the starter circuit. This is to ensure that the engine will not crank till both the clutch disks are FULLY disengaged. See attached pic.

Your description above sounds like the brake switch which is depressed in the full up pedal position and it's button is released to close the circuit and light the brake lights. You are correct that the switches are not interchangeable as one is a "normally open" type and the other is "normally closed".

To adjust the clutch interlock switch, you must first insure the clutch and it's associated linkage/pedal travel is properly adjusted(best done with the switch out of it's bracket and out of the way). Once this is done, have an assistant hold the clutch pedal in the fully depressed position and resting against the stop bolt. The head of this bolt is just visible in the pic above the switch linkage behind the power steering pipes. With pedal fully depressed, insert the switch in the bracket and adjust it's nut to allow the button to close the circuit, but not allow the lever to touch the switch barrel/body as this could break the plastic switch.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Ron,
What Greg said ....the clutch interlock should be defeated by pushing on the pedal as little as a quarter inch. Pushing in the clutch pedal is supposed to RELEASE the pin (or button), not push it in..... must be for his 454 Kama.

It is true for my Kama554 also. The way ours is set up is exactly like the brake light switch. You depress the clutch slightly to release the safety switch and you can turn over the motor. In fact, a while back when I ordered a spare, Chip at Artrac told me they were American switches and the brake and clutch switches are interchangeable. We also have the adjustable clutch stop like you do, but no switch below it. So unless I'm wrong, (I'm not Gregg) I believe that is what he is referring to.

I see from your photo how yours works. IMHO it is indeed a better set up, insuring the clutch MUST be disengaged fully. Your explanation of how to set that one is perfect.

 

[greg_g]

Hmmm ... my recollection must be fading - because I don't recall that particular switch location on either of my JM254s. I do remember however, that if they weren't positioned properly, damage from the clutch pedal was guaranteed. Reason being, both Jinmas were delivered with at least one of the switches already partially crushed. Lousy assembly job.

But at least I got the part right about the two switches being different.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

That is interesting, but dosn't sound like much of a "safety". I guess it does at least put someone in the drivers seat to move that clutch pedal a little to close up the starter circuit.

Thanks

 

[3RRL]

That is interesting, but dosn't sound like much of a "safety". I guess it does at least put someone in the drivers seat to move that clutch pedal a little to close up the starter circuit.

Thanks

Yeah, interesting that the Jinma has a much better clutch safety system than my Kama.
And you definitely don't need to be in the seat either.
I hate to admit it, but you don't know how many times I've started my Kama from NOT in the seat because of this. In the past, I've always made double sure all transmissions and transfer case is in neutral, of course, but still a dangerous play. I can touch the clutch pedal and push it down slightly with one hand and start the engine by reaching over to the key switch with the other. It only takes less than 1/2 inch to move the clutch pedal. Know also that I am standing right in front of the left rear wheel at this point. If it was like yours, I could never do this.

I don't do this anymore because the last time I tried it I realized my sleeve cuff caught on one of the shift levers as I was reaching for the key switch. Had I not stopped to check, it could have pushed one of the levers into gear and I would be making this post posthumously. So now, I always get in the seat to start the tractor. I hope nobody else does what I did just because they can. I'm thinking of putting a switch in like yours after reading this thread. I hope it helps other Kama owners also.

 

[Red55]

Thanks Guys- just checked my switch and it is not adjusted properly. Will have to ck with my son in the drivers seated but I was abled to bottom out switch and could see a small gap at the stop. Kinda hard to push and look at the same time Merry Christmas to all! -Ed

 

[rrboomer]

Greg! Please reread my post. I said "IF" the adjustment were out it then becomes a pedal limit switch. I did not say I used it as such so you will have to take me out of the group who did it that way. Thanks joe