clutch satety switch failure 2006 284le

[3RRL]

One way to look at it is like driving a car at 60mph.
After 50 hours you've driven 3,000 miles, or the normal (old) oil change interval. I know it's not exactly the same but just another way to look at it to put it in perspective. Most cars rev around what? ... half or less than half their max rpm's at that speed? (Unless it's a Yugo flat out hahaha). I saw a Yugo and instead of a speedometer it had a calendar.

With that said, I change my oil and filter yearly or every 100 hours, whichever comes first. I do use pure synthetic Mobil1 though, which is supposed to give extended oil change periods.

 

[bluechip]

Red55, on the chance it might have been a post I made a while back. the engines we were hearing about (2 or 3 of them) that had major failures in the 120 to 150 hour range were all thought NOT to have had an oil change, quite possibly where still on chinese oil. The first oil change is HIGHLY recommended between 30 and 50 hours, then everu 100 hours (or less) after that (50 is good).

 

[Red55]

Sorry Chris- (&Chip) misspoke on my part I didn't think or feel that it was a lot of oil changes. i.e. 50hr mark is good and that's what I'm following Plus it gives me an excuse to go "work" on the tractor. -Ed

 

[SPIKER]

I changed my china oil at about 10 hrs, and again at 50 hrs and 100 hrs, then in the fall every year. one year it has been close to 80 or so hrs on it through the summer but I want NEW oil in it for the winter, and always use good oil and new filters. So far the engine has been great, I have a clutch issue on it now and haven't been running it a lot only as needed. I don't think I have 50 hrs on it this year with new oil put in back in October. I think I only have 3 or 4 hrs since then. Most of the hrs on mine are from mowing & dirt work so both of them are in dirty dusty times so I change mine less than the factory 300 hr spec in my old parts book. I am due a trans oil and front dif fluid change and the hyd oil was changed in sept/oct. when I had pump problems.

markm

 

[rrboomer]

Help my post has been hi-jacked by oil militants. midwestern christian republican best I can tell . Thanks rr boomer

 

[studor]

I agree with Greg -- I have just replaced the clutch safety switch on my 2006 284 -- the switch was too close to the bell housing and I guess changes in temperature etc recently caused the plastic inside to crack and then give me an intermitent starting problem -- then it got bad enough to pop the main fuse everytime I hit the start position with the key. It taught me to check when replacing it make sure there is clearance between the end of the switch and bell housing before tightening the nut to hold it in the bracket

 

[rrboomer]

Hello again ! I think the 2006 258 had junk switches! The pin goes into a steel housing that is threades and is bolted to a bracket that is on the tractor frame . If you adjust it tight It becomes a pedal limit switch. The back part that falls out of the switch with the wires is UNDER NO STRESS !!! . The button pushes in 1\4 inch and hides game over. If my switch housing was smashed or deformed I could buy into your quess . Merry Chrismas and more tractors !joe

 

[studor]

Yep -- maybe not the best switch in the world but if you put the threaded part in a vice and take a hammer to the front of the switch you will not do a lot of damage to the front pin. Exert any cross pressure on the casing and the little plastic bits will start to fall out the back end! The body of the switch is a bit too long I think and therefore is easily put in the wrong place with pressure exerted right where the plastic end plug that holds the whole switch together. The front end of the switch will hold up to a lot of smashing. Try it with your old switch!

 

[greg_g]

Joe - considering the clutch interlock switch as a pedal travel limiter puts you in the group who've simply got things installed/adjusted incorrectly. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the travel limiter is a hex head bolt that screws into the bellhousing. If installed properly and adjusted correctly, the clutch interlock should be defeated by pushing on the pedal as little as a quarter inch. Pushing in the clutch pedal is supposed to RELEASE the pin (or button), not push it in. Switch position is adjusted when the pedal is homed (in the UP position). Insert the switch through the hole till just the pin (or button) is depressed by the pedal, then lock the switch in place. That way, the pedal never touches the switch body at all.

Or else, perhaps you've got the wrong switch in the wrong bracket. Clutch switch and brake switch are not interchangeable

//greg//

 

[studor]

Sorry Joe
Forgot the Merry Christmas part. I am going to a parts store after Xmas to see if I can find a similar switch but shorter and with more robust back end construction. Will let you know if I find one.
Regards