clutch stuck, Ford 1920

   / clutch stuck, Ford 1920 #31  
and if it's neither of those.. could be sheared rivits or bolts on ring gear, or broke pinion / coupling.. broke rear axle etc..

but I'd be looking at clutch 'area' first

soundguy

and hoping thats what is wrong
 
   / clutch stuck, Ford 1920 #32  
and hoping thats what is wrong

Thanks gentlemen for your replies. My father in law had problems with the clutch the last time he was operating it and it flipped on him according to his son who noted it was a clutch problem that made it buck and flip. I had it towed to my place and I presume will have quite the time figuring it out. Again, thanks. NPNH
 
   / clutch stuck, Ford 1920 #33  
start with the pto..
 
   / clutch stuck, Ford 1920 #34  
My sugestion is to go ahead and block the clutch and walk away for a few days.. then come back and check.. many times they pop loose on their own.. if not, go ahead and get it in gear and start it... not super easy.. but with a lil jumper wire you can do so from the op seat.. keep the clutch blocked and drive it around in figure 8's stomping on the brakes.

if that don't do it, you can also use your lil jumper wire to set there and bump the starter over with her in high gear and the clutch blocked and try to pop her loose.

lastly, put a pto load on her like a mower and start her with pto engaged a couple times.

one or more of those have always worked for me in the past... have yet had to split one from a stuck clutch.. though do realize that in some extreme cases.. you don't have much choice.

have enen pulled starters so I could get a poker in there to tap around on the clutch too..

post back.

soundguy


This is very sound advice to anyone with a "frozen" clutch.
 
   / clutch stuck, Ford 1920 #35  
I am having the same issue with my '97 1920. Happened once last year and It fixed itself. Now this year, tractor sat for 2-3 weeks in the humidity and now its doing it again. I have been keeping it in mid gears, slamming the breaks until she dies and it does not seem to give. I like the idea of dragging a box blade to help, may give that a try. Otherwise, Im to the point of splitting the tractor as I need it for the winter months.....
 
   / clutch stuck, Ford 1920 #36  
I am having the same issue with my '97 1920. Happened once last year and It fixed itself. Now this year, tractor sat for 2-3 weeks in the humidity and now its doing it again. I have been keeping it in mid gears, slamming the breaks until she dies and it does not seem to give. I like the idea of dragging a box blade to help, may give that a try. Otherwise, Im to the point of splitting the tractor as I need it for the winter months.....
I wouldn't give up just yet. For only a few weeks you should be able to be]reak this free. A pull start in first gear is one way to do it. If you haven't already, block the pedal down with a piece of wood and sometimes that will break it free.

I had a 2110 and 1900 and each came with a wooden block to use to force the pedal down over the winter or during storage. It's in the owner's manual and explains how to put the wood between the floor and arm of the clutch pedal. Just stuff something in there to push the pedal down while you figure out what to do. You should be able to get that free.
 
   / clutch stuck, Ford 1920 #37  
I am having the same issue with my '97 1920. Happened once last year and It fixed itself. Now this year, tractor sat for 2-3 weeks in the humidity and now its doing it again. I have been keeping it in mid gears, slamming the breaks until she dies and it does not seem to give. I like the idea of dragging a box blade to help, may give that a try. Otherwise, Im to the point of splitting the tractor as I need it for the winter months.....
This is an old post, I was surprised at it popping back up.
There is a method to this madness, lol. I hope when you say that you are keeping it in the mid gears and slamming the brakes, WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL DEPRESSED? The object is to put a load on the clutch while it is depressed, so when the load that is being created by pressing the brakes is transferred up the driveline, the weakest point is the clutch disc that is only "rusted" to the flywheel. A rusted joint is easier to break than a solid metal one). If you are trying to loosen the clutch disc from the flywheel with the pedal in the up position, then the pressure plate is carrying the load that it is designed to carry and you are fighting both the pressure plate and the rusted flywheel. You want the clutch disc to slip when you apply the load of the brakes and or a plow, boxblade, or other loading method.
Hope that helps,
David from jax

I thought it was funny when Sixdogs said that "this is very sound advice", since it was coming from Soundguy, lol!
 

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