Cold cut saw

   / Cold cut saw #61  
I meant for the hold down to be mounted to the cold cut saw, not separately. Would be kinda hard to mount a vice on one.
 
   / Cold cut saw #62  
For handirifle, here are a couple hold down options to consider. I use both on my home made vertical bandsaw. The vertical clamp works best on repetitive cuts in long material. The milling machine style hold-downs work best on odd size and angled pieces. Both work fine.
 

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   / Cold cut saw #63  
I dug my saw out of the snow and pulled the motor yesterday, the flash makes a pic of the nameplate a big white flash so I copied the info. There is also a worm gear & housing that looks very integral to this motor. Like I said, I don't know much about motors but I'm guessing that I won't be able to replace it with another motor, and rewinding might be the only way out. (575v motor).
DSCN8641.JPG
DSCN8644.JPG



Sorry for the slight hijack, but I've got a few folks helping me on my true "cold saw" thru PM's and I can't get a pic to work there.
You can see the highly advanced material clamping on this saw, the guy's I've talked to tell me that there is no comparison to either an abrasive saw or the "other" high speed dry saw (3000 ish rpm) This saw operates at 30 & 60 rpm and the blade is tool steel. They tell me it is very accurate on angles, as you can see, the motor (saw) turns for angles rather than the material.
 
   / Cold cut saw #64  
I'd bet that the nose-piece with the worm gear comes off just ahead of the cooling fins, and the motor shaft is keyed into it like a direct drive pressure washer. You're correct on the accuracy of the table, when you get her running you will love it.
 
   / Cold cut saw #65  
I'll admit, I know "jack" xxxx about motors, I hope your right Dan. My next stop is at a specialty motor & rewinding shop to see what they say. Boy I'd love to find a 220v single P motor that fit's it.
 
   / Cold cut saw #66  
Even with a lower voltage it might well have enough power. It looks like a heavy duty industrial setup and is probably overpowered to start with. Since its a variable load application you won't hurt the motor by running it on a lower voltage.
 
   / Cold cut saw #67  
I've been "asking around" everywhere since I'm ignorant in this electrical/motor area and one thing I was told was that over powering would not hurt it, but under powering would burn it up:confused3:
One suggestion was to pull the fan cover and put on a pulley and drive it with another motor, that might be a lesser contraption than some of the other assortment of VFD's and thing a ma bob's that has been offered (on other site's) and may as well been talking Chinese to me:laughing:
 
   / Cold cut saw #68  
I'd bet that the nose-piece with the worm gear comes off just ahead of the cooling fins, and the motor shaft is keyed into it like a direct drive pressure washer. You're correct on the accuracy of the table, when you get her running you will love it.

Yep, remove the worm gear, unbolt the 4 bolts under it, remove the bolts into the fins and see if it will come off.
Too bad it doesn't have the frame size on the tag.

Aaron Z
 
   / Cold cut saw #69  
I was having a nose-about on ebay and ran across a damaged take-off motor from a Brobo cold saw, which is quite similar to yours. Here's the shaft end.
Brobo.jpg Listing
 
   / Cold cut saw #70  
Do you guy's think that the motor (in 220v) still may be something I could find?
Been busy plowing since yesterday, but I'' try to pull that "nose" off & see what I have.
 

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