Cold TC45D

jinman · Dec 6, 2001

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Duane, in a previous post you said that stopping the flow in the drain hose would cause an immediate rise in temperature. I'm not doubting your results, but mine didn't prove the same. Last Saturday, I installed a brass needle valve in the line and after letting the tractor idle for 10 minutes, I drove it around awhile and the temperature needle just approached half-way up to the green normal range (maybe 120º). After working the tractor pretty hard pushing some trees, the temperature just barely got into the green. Earlier this year, I had my radiator replaced under warranty due to battery acid damage. I'm beginning to wonder if they may have removed my thermostat or if some trash may have lodged in it. Tt was in the low 70s here in TX last weekend, and the tractor should have heated up a lot more. I'm wondering if anyone else has installed the valve and had little effect? ...and yes, I did make sure it was turned off./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif I checked the valve before I installed it also to make sure it was working. I think I need a new thermostat...or I guess my guage could be "out of whack" too./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

JimI

djradz · Dec 6, 2001

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Ah, FullThrottle, you've found another nagging problem with the engines used on the Ford 1000 and NH TC series tractors, especially the larger ones. The threaded fitting where the coolant drain line attaches to the block, leaks in many cases. I had the dealer repair my 1720 13 years ago, and it didn't take, and I fixed it twice over the 13 years I owned it. My TC 40D now leaks there as well. It has nothing to do with installing the valve - mine leaked within 2 weeks of getting the tractor, long before I installed the valve.

I think what happens is the block is cast and the fitting made of magnesium or aluminum or something similar and there must be different expansion/contraction characteristics of the metals. As I've said before, you'd think NH would have figured this out long ago, but ... I guess not. Anyway, I haven't taken my 40D in for the 50 hr check (even though I've got about 60 hrs) on it and I'm not sure I'll mention it when I do. Right now I'm considering what I'm going to use to better seal the fitting. Thinking about using something the plumbers up here call "the green stuff". It's a pipe thread sealant that stays a little flexible, which I think might be just what is needed. Not sure about your leak, but mine always leaked the most when the tractor was parked after running for a while. Let us know what you end up doing.

Anonymous Poster · Dec 6, 2001

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Let me know what the name of the "Green Stuff" is and I might try it also.

djradz · Dec 6, 2001

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Jim, not sure what's happening in your case. Hard to believe it won't now heat up. Mine immediately (well as fast as engines heat up - say 10 minutes) goes to mid-range on the guage. You sound pretty sure there's no flow so maybe this suggestion is pointless, but just in case, I have another test. What I did before installing the valve on mine, is to just pinch the hose. I had a little clamp, must be from a lab or hospital, used to pinch hoses, and installed it about halfway between the radiator and drain valve. I think a C-clamp could also work, just don't ruin the hose. If your sure there's no flow, there must be a thermostat or guage problem. To check the guage, I think you could drain a little fluid, open the radiator cap, put in a thermometer, and then run the engine up to whatever temperature, and then see what it reads. ... unless of course your service manual has another way of checking it. Make sure you take out some fluid so as it expands it won't overflow ... unless of course if you don't care it it does. Good luck!

jinman · Dec 26, 2001

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Duane, I finally solved my cold TC45D mystery and it was just as I suspected, a defective thermostat. My dealer said mine was the first TC model for which he ever needed a replacement thermostat. Go figure! In the photo below, you can clearly see why my thermostat failed. The little metal pin is a check-valve which allows coolant in the reverse direction so you can backfill a cold engine. Mine somehow was defective and was able to lodge itself under the lip of the thermostic vavle causing it to stay open. I don't expect anyone else to ever see this rare problem, but it is so unusual, I had to post a picture. Now I only have to wait three days for my thermostat to arrive and I'll be back in business. My dealer didn't even have the part in stock because he has never needed one. Nuthin' like being the first!/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

JimIEdited by jinman on 12/26/01 05:00 PM (server time).

Anonymous Poster · Dec 26, 2001

Re: My brand new TC35D...

I hate to burst your bubble but, I've seen this problem six or seven times on different NH equipment that uses the same make of engine as the TCs. Most commonly the mid-size skid steers and the Boomers, don't think I've seen it on the 20 series now that I think about it. I've fixed it three different ways. 1. replace the thermostat, 2. pry the valve open, get the ball free, and reinstall, or 3. pry the ball free and cut it off at the customers request. In either case, haven't had any problems except one that I replaced and it did it again. Can you guess which one I cut off? Point being, it isn't all that uncommon.

jinman · Dec 26, 2001

Re: My brand new TC35D...

I hate to burst your bubble but

It's the kind of problem I can stand having my"bubble burst" over. I guess I should have known that because it didn't happen at my dealer doesn't mean it hasn't happened anywhere else. I thought about removing the little valve needle and putting it back in, but then I think New Holland should buy me a new one and as many more as required untill this engineering snafu is corrected. Thanks for the info. Now at least I know I'm not the only one to have this problem.

Now, since you knew about this, why didn't you mention it before? Huh? /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

JimI

bekxsteins · Jan 2, 2002

Re: My brand new TC35D...

hi i also am a tech in wisconsin have seen this problem many times, we have found that in the skid steers if we cut off the ball and put the thermostat back in verses plugging the hole with a 1/8 rivet then drilling a .040 hole next to the rivet just enough to let the air out this will make the machine run about 15 -20 degress warmer which is nice with a cab heater. it is hard to believe that a small hole like that will let that much water run through Gary

jinman · Jan 3, 2002

Re: My brand new TC35D...

When I got my new thermostat, I put a tiny piece of stainless steel wire around the top of the valve flange (opposite the ball side). This reduced some of the slack in the check valve mechanism (so it couldn't become lodged in the valve) and yet didn't defeat its purpose. There was no interference with the gasket or the mounting flange of the thermostat and the wire is securely in place so it will not become dislogded and go floating about in my cooling system. My tractor now heats up and runs at normal (82º C) temperature. I probably could have done the same with the old one, but I think if New Holland gets this problem reported enough, they will be convinced to redesign or use another thermostat and end this problem. At least, that's what I hope./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

jb112454 · Jan 3, 2002

i've always understood that the clearances in engines were designed around operating temps. hope they took this in consideration when they designed the tc's or they may wear out prematurely. just a thought.