Cold Weather Question

[3930dave]

This is all pretty interesting to me, but it appears that you are all more worried about him getting started than in keeping him running. They may be different issues - at least they are for me.

It was -22F last night. It's about -8F now. Yesterday was about the same, tomorrow will be only slightly better. I wanted to run my new (70 hrs) JD 3039R this afternoon, so I plugged in the transmission and engine block heaters for a few hours, and she started like a champ. I moved less than 20 yds and she died when I tried to feed a bit more fuel. I restarted and the same thing happened. I did this multiple times, but each time I got it going, I tried to creep it a little closer to its stall rather than back into the timber where I had wanted to go initially. I got there, but barely.

So, why is my new tractor dying on me? I suspect the fuel is gelling on me. I have winter fuel in there - about half a tank.

If I put an additive in there, will it somehow work its way into the fuel lines?

This isn't a big deal in so far as there is no snow to move, or truck to pull out of a ditch but that can change. What's the best way to keep a tractor running well below zero F? Isn't this going to be an issue for the OP too?

Hopefully OP doesn't get into the same territory, but with their indulgence....

Check the filter - if it is gelled up, you may need to replace it, or at least bring it inside to thaw.

Check the tank for water contamination - if there is a serious accumulation you may have to drain the tank. If the fuel is not contaminated, use something like Rescue 911 in the fuel - let it sit for a while then try and get it running while applying as much local heat as you safely can. The enclosure hiker has would be ideal....

Diesel 9•1•1 | Power Service

Use something ahead of time like PS white bottle or howes....... in the future to help prevent gelling.

Lastly...... fill the tank - good storage practice all year, but esp. this time of year, keep the tank full.

Edit - any chance you have bio-diesel ? If so, what concentration (B5, 20 ?). Check the filter for visiible guck, in case you need a biocide.

Rgds, D.

 

[Musdalen]

I think it is NOT biodiesel. Bought it at Casey's and don't recall seeing anything about that on the pump. I'll keep it in mind.

Sediment bowl looks solid. I think I found the problem. Considering trying to limp it up to the garage where I could get more heat on it.

Poor planning on my part. Didn't think about putting in an additive, though I made a point of running out the summer fuel.

 

[Phillip w]

This is all pretty interesting to me, but it appears that you are all more worried about him getting started than in keeping him running. They may be different issues - at least they are for me.

It was -22F last night. It's about -8F now. Yesterday was about the same, tomorrow will be only slightly better. I wanted to run my new (70 hrs) JD 3039R this afternoon, so I plugged in the transmission and engine block heaters for a few hours, and she started like a champ. I moved less than 20 yds and she died when I tried to feed a bit more fuel. I restarted and the same thing happened. I did this multiple times, but each time I got it going, I tried to creep it a little closer to its stall rather than back into the timber where I had wanted to go initially. I got there, but barely.

So, why is my new tractor dying on me? I suspect the fuel is gelling on me. I have winter fuel in there - about half a tank.

If I put an additive in there, will it somehow work its way into the fuel lines?

This isn't a big deal in so far as there is no snow to move, or truck to pull out of a ditch but that can change. What's the best way to keep a tractor running well below zero F? Isn't this going to be an issue for the OP too?

Here is my take. You very well may have gelled especially with temps below zero. If so, you'll probably need a new fuel filter. Their is a waxy substance that thicken and plug the fuel filter. And this is why when your gell most of the time you got to change the fuel filter. If it was me, I get a heat lamp like you use on baby, pigs, baby chicks and baby calves. I would set the heat lamp in the vicinity of the fuel lines and fuel filter. Put a tarp or something over the tractor to trap the heat where you need it. Head to town and get you some power service or howes diesel supplement. I've never been a big fan of that 911 stuff, can't get the stuff to work. Change fuel filter, put some supplement in the tank, and get her running. Once you get it running, set throttle to about 1000-1200 rpms. Cover tractor with the tarp but be sure you leave the front open so not to block radiator. Let here run. Do not try to increase throttle or move tractor. Just let it run and watch you heat gauge. If heat gauge reaches normal temp, do not increase throttle or move the tractor. Just let it run. After about 30 minutes or so you should have your supplement mixed fairly well. You should have enough engine heat that every thing under the hood including fuel delivery system should be warm. Gradually increase throttle and see how it responds. Speed it up and slow down a few times and as it response good you should be ready to move the tractor. This whole process from start up to being ready to move tractor may take 45 minutes to an hour. Hope this helps.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

If I put an additive in there, will it somehow work its way into the fuel lines?
only if its running

the only way it is going to get into the system is if it is running. and it will need to run for a while, as it needs to go through the return lines as well.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

On an electronically controlled engine cranking speed and time cranking is key when it is cold. Then there is intake air temp. I am not a fan of ether injection. Let me see if I can explain. Going to make some huge generalities.
Every engine will have a cam sensor which tells the ecm what cylinder is where in the firing order.
You will have at the very least a coolant temp sensor and maybe ambient temp sensor.
Your ecm knows when it is firing on an individual cylinder, because when it puts in X amount of fuel in it should see X increase in RPS.
So, you turn the key on, the ECM goes out and looks at coolant temp and it really cold. So it is going to put a small amount of fuel into the cylinder right at top dead center when the air will be the hottest. It will give it just enough to help the starter. It will keep doing that on each cylinder slowly increasing the fuel amount until it will run with out the starter. It is using this burning to warm the cylinder.
So once you start cranking stay cranking.
In most cases you will not get hand throttle for a while until it smooths out.
It is going to smoke like crazy as it is advancing and retarding the firing of the individual cylinders, it will smooth out and give you throttle. SO, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE DOOR OPEN ON YOUR
BUILDING!
The magic number for engine RPMs is about 200. If you can't get that you are done dancing.
Should make sense now why a block heater can work against you. The ecm thinks the engine is warm won't inject the fuel at TDC and will not advance and ****** timing, so does not go into cold mode. But once it sees that first snort of that cold intake air, it can never get combustion temps hot enough
Also, should make sense now why engines have glow plugs, they warm the air so that first shot of fuel will fire. The ecm controls the glow plugs, they will not stay on as long if the ecm see warm coolant temp. Smart ecm programming could figure that out, one would think.
Why you want a warm battery, in fact bring the battery inside and put it in right before you go to start it. Or invest in a battery blanket before a block heater.
Point the heater towards the intake the warm air will help.
Hope this helps

 

[mike69440]

My RTV900XT gets used about once weekly. Haven't been above zero in over a week and as cold as -42. I have Howes in mine and no problem starting and running although I didn't try on the -42 morning. I wish it had a block heater but I survive without one.

Our RTV900 needs about 10 clicks of the GP to start on these -10F and colder mornings. I use Power service white and cut fuel with Kerosene

In general, I worry more about the hydraulics than the engine on cold days.

I had to start my L39 Saturday to pull out my stepson's pickup truck out of a hole I have no idea why he drove into. The L39's Hydraulic pump hated the cold. I even use Royal purple hydraulic fluid, and it flows better than most syn fluids. I have regular TCS Premium fluid in my Mahindra, so I'm scared to even run that, as it cavitates when cold and the hydraulic are very slow including the power steering. I need to flush that stuff out and put in synthetic fluid.

PS that wind chill is what gets you! Burr!

 

[bcjmmac]

Hi
My JD2520 died on Saturday when I restarted it after cutting down some trees that I was going to drag to my "wood" area (firewood for 2019) - temp was -20C/-29F (tractor is stored in a barn so protected a bit + block heater). Checked the fuel drain and it was frozen. Luckily I had made a decent trail/compacted the snow, so took the Subaru back and towed it home (bucket & blower both attached) - tractor was roughly 1/2 mile from house/barn; wife wasn't impressed ;-]. Have since removed & cleaned the fuel drain bowl and replaced the fuel filter. Originally thought it might have been "summer fuel" in the system, but discovered a donut of ice in the drain bowl! Fuel in the filter seemed fine/not gelled so likely just the drain bowl. Guess I'll add draining the fuel bowl to my list of fall chores. LOL
Anyhow, running fine now (still -20C) which is good - forecast is 8-12 inches/40-50cm of snow Thursday.

 

[tcreeley]

Hi
- forecast is 8-12 inches/40-50cm of snow Thursday.

I am seeing that too - just nw of Bangor.
I have some clean up on my 2nd drive to do tomorrow first- temps in 20F (-8C) daytime finally!

Tractor is always plugged in!

 

[bcjmmac]

Reading your post, realized my math was off. 45cm = 18 inches. Our forecast this morning indicates the Nor'Easter is tracking further north so we will be are currently forecast to be on the boundary line. 10-14 inches (25-25cm) snow + some rain (5-10mm). Could be nasty/might have to use the generator (will have a fire going regardless).
On the positive side, our lane (500 feet long) is oriented north/south so the NE wind won't plug it with snow. Once the wind shifts to the West, it will drift in though.

 

[tcreeley]

Reading your post, realized my math was off. 45cm = 18 inches. Our forecast this morning indicates the Nor'Easter is tracking further north so we will be are currently forecast to be on the boundary line. 10-14 inches (25-25cm) snow + some rain (5-10mm). Could be nasty/might have to use the generator (will have a fire going regardless).
On the positive side, our lane (500 feet long) is oriented north/south so the NE wind won't plug it with snow. Once the wind shifts to the West, it will drift in though.

I guess we are getting through this one more easily than you! Good luck!