Cold weather starting procedure

[NewToy]

I was wondering if there are any procedures to follow for "cold start" other than hitting the glo-plugs for 10-20 seconds? I have a FarmTrac which has a Daedong engine and the FarmTrac manual is very limited in content. Is there a reccomended throttle setting for warm up? Also, how about length of warm up time? I have been starting at idle and then bump it up to 1400-1500 RPM and let her warm up for 10-15 minutes when it's real cold (10-15 degrees F). I appreciate any info.

Thanks
John

 

[George2615]

I had a cold starting problem with my Mahindra last winter (1st winter on new tractor). My glow plugs come on with the key switch for about 3 seconds then you're supposed to start it. In temps. below 20 deg. F the tractor would crank for a long time then sputter to life and run very rough. A few times it didn't even start. I had to turn on my salamander heater and blow heat under it for about 10 minutes then it started. My cure was to install a lower radiator hose heater. I drained the radiator, cut the lower hose and installed the heater with hose clamps and refilled. It cost me about $25 at the local auto parts store. I leave it plugged in during cold weather and for the few cents in electric it costs it was worth it. It keeps the coolant temp. about 130-140 deg.F and starts up immediately and runs smoothly. I start it at idle speed then bump it up to 1200-1500 for a few minutes to circulate the tranny lube.

Another problem I had was fuel would gel up with cold temps. causing the engine to run then stall, start again run then stall again. I started using Power Service fuel additive to prevent gelling and that problem was solved too.

Hope this helps.

George

 

[DK35vince]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have been starting at idle and then bump it up to 1400-1500 RPM and let her warm up for 10-15 minutes when it's real cold (10-15 degrees F). )</font>

John,
Sounds like the procedures you are using now are fine..

 

[NewToy]

I figured that was probably OK. I got those procedures from one of the JD online manuals. It has always started fine, runs a little rough for a few seconds then smooths right out. The FarmTrac manual just says hit the glo-plugs and thats it. They don't say anything about bumping the RPM's up or any warm up time. I gleaned that from the JD manual.

Thanks,

John

 

[TractorLegend]

My CK30HST has been parked for 3 months with a full tank of then fresh diesel and PowerService additive. It fired right up with nary a glitch---I always let the temp at least come up to the lower notch while running at 12-1500 rpm before working.
My storage methods may not be ideal but I recommend fuel additive to everyone.

 

[Youare]

My tractor has a block heater when it is below 20 degrees F I plug it in for 30 minutes or so which makes a huge difference.
Using the glow plugs for 5 - 10 seconds is very helpful at the 20 degree and below temperature.

Some tractor manufacturers recommend starting with the throtle in the wide open position, I can't bring myself to do that. I start in the lowest throtle position then after 5 or 10 seconds bump it up to 1100 RPM and let it warm up.

Randy

 

[aosbill]

Whenever I start my CK20HST in the cold temps, I start by turning the key to glow plug position. Wait for light to go out, crank, and starts right up but a little sputtery. As soon as the starter diengages, I then turn the key again to the glow plug position and hold for a count of about three seconds. The engine immediately responds to the glow plug warm up and starts to run smooth. I let it warm up at least 15 minutes with the clutch out parking brake on. I warm it up at about 1200 rpms. As soon as I get on the tractor, I immediately operate the hydraulics/FL up and down all the way to get the cold oil into the system to warm the oil up. Works for me.

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

My big thing is to get the engine warmed up quickly, and to me that means giving it as much fuel as I can, as soon as I can.

In cold weather (or warm weather too, come to think of it), I just wait til the glow plug light goes off then start her up, then slowly up the idle up to about 1500 over the course of 15-30 seconds. Of course, my Amsoil 10W-30 gives me good assurance that I have a nice film going. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Then as soon as I have 1 bar (out of 4), I take off at about 1,800-2,000 to warm her up quickly, start working the loader to help get the hydro fluid warming, and start working the machine at about 2,300 as soon as I have 4 bars.

The thread To idle or shut-off: Which is best? is a good read, up until Russell and I start to go at it anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif (We're now good buddies). /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I just don't like to let my engine idle for longer than it needs to, and figure that a warm engine is a happy engine. It really does take a lot longer to reach operating temp at lower engine speeds, plus the combustion is a lot less efficient during that time. YMMV of course.

 

[NewToy]

I can see where that synthetic oil gets things slick a lot faster than conventional 15/40 in the cold. Last year I changed the oil in my Powerstroke in the dead of winter using Rotella as usual. The oil was stored in the unheated garage and I was shocked at how thick it was pouring it out. I use synthetic Rotella in the tractor and use the block heater on the p/u.

 

[TractorLegend]

Yes I forgot that chestnut of information I my post.
I also have RedLine synthetic 10-40 in my Kioti.
It's hard to expect good performance if you are trying to get a sump full of congealed Aunt Jemima (dinosaur oil) flowing through its arteries on a cold weather start up.

www.redlineoil.com

 

[KiotiJohn]

When I rewrote one of the Kioti manuals, I believe it stated to set the throttle at about half max RPM, turn the key to glow (which is about 8 seconds) and then start. Always allow the tractor to warm for at least 5 minutes, and in very cold weather, 10 is better.
If the tractor doesn't start right quick, hit the glow plugs again for another 8-10 seconds rather than continuing to just turn the key.
You may notice a little more smoke on startup in cold temps, but that's not a problem unless it's black smoke.
If your tractor ignition is like mine, there is a glow plug setting when you first turn the key to "on," and then between on and crank you can manually run the plugs. Some tractors have a glow plug setting opposite the crank position to use manually.
It's best to get the RPM up from the start just as in your auto to get the oil flowing quickly.
John

 

[psuedofarmer]

this winter i've been using the tractor alot (50+ hrs so far this winter). no trouble starting - i use the procedure outlined in the manual (and in this thread). i don't use a block heater.

this has me wondering now that i'm using it more often this winter.. i run synthetic in all my vehicles and it never occurred to me to run it in the tractor.

if i'm going to run the tractor more in the winter (plowing .5 mile driveway), does it make sense to run synthetic now that the tractor is broken in (400+ hrs)?

i read that switching to synthetic in vehicles with high mileage may cause some leaks due to the change in viscosity.

pf

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

<font color="blue"> If i'm going to run the tractor more in the winter (plowing .5 mile driveway), does it make sense to run synthetic now that the tractor is broken in (400+ hrs)?</font>

Short answer: Yes. Your engine is quite well broken in, and I believe that the superior characteristics of synthetics in cold weather operation, and resultant reduced engine and starter wear, will more than make up for the extra expense of the oil. Seems the jury is still out on whether or not you even need to break in an engine on dino oil before switching to synthetics, but I still prefer to do it. I changed to synthetics after 500 hours, but I waited that long mainly because that's how long it took me to come to my senses, with the able assistance of Skypup, GSXR100 and many others who made too much sense for me to ignore the obvious any longer. Maybe 50 or 100 hours on dino before switching would be "optimal", I really don't know. Just sounds about right.

<font color="blue"> I read that switching to synthetic in vehicles with high mileage may cause some leaks due to the change in viscosity. </font>

My take on the leakage thing is that if your seals and gaskets are in good shape, as yours should be, then they will probably not leak. The leakage "thing", in my opinion, has little or nothing to do with the viscosity of the oil, but rather, with one of the characteristics of synthetics. They are very good at dissolving carbon build-up and sludge of all descriptions, including organic deposits that might be providing a temporary seal to marginally-functioning seals and gaskets, much the same way that Bars-leaks or other cooling system leak-stoppers work. Dissolve the gunk that is temporarily plugging a leak, and the leak will start up again. Don't blame the oil, blame the faulty gasket or seal. Replace them if you start getting leaks after switching to a synthetic, and the leaks will stop. YMMV.

 

[psuedofarmer]

thanks for the reply CT_Tree_Guy <font color="green">incidently, i was looking for info on root grapples - thought i ran across your name as an owner of a grapple(?) </font>

i'll switch to synthetic shortly.. the benefits for cold starting are well documented, besides, i've run new vehicles (and switched older vehicles) with synthetics and like the results.

pf

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

pf -

Yep, I'm into grapples. Here are some threads that might be of interest:

5030 "skidder" pics - the "tree-bota" in action

To grapple or to not grapple...

Remotes and Top and Tilt?

The last thread contains a rousing discussion on the relative merits of conventional remotes vs. electric/hydraulic solenoids and electrical controls (joysticks, buttons, switches) to control attachments of all types, including grapples.

Again, YMMV.

 

[psuedofarmer]

excellent. my apologies for hijacking the thread - thanks for the grapple leads.

pf