Cold Weather tricks

Charlie_Iliff · Feb 5, 2004

David - You are clearly getting good starting performance. Have you done anything with fuel additives, spark plug types or recent replacement, or anything else that might make yours a bit different from Hans's? His has more hours, but should be the same engine.
It sounds as if the Robins on the 422 have quite different starting performance with new coils. Are you aware of any change in the coil or electronics of the Kohlers?
The various posts show the consistent problem of high drag in the hydraulic fluid keeping the starter revs too low to start. Obviously, thinner fluid, such as Amsoil THF or 0W-? synthetic would help. Heaters depend on location, and apparently are best on the pumps and engine oil pan. Presumably 0W - ? synthetic in the engine would help, as well. Additives to prevent ice in the fuel will help in some cases. A good battery is essential. Good battery wires haven't been discussed much, but I've often seen great improvement by installing bigger wires and making sure the connectors are all clean.
There are more suggestions in the thread, but none really explain why some engines, such as yours, simply start better even without heat. I suspect that the spark plugs are good, and the coil and ignition electronics are just working better. If they're any different from those with trouble, we should try to identify to better units. Any thoughts?

Old_Hickory · Feb 5, 2004

Slowly pour about 10 gallons of hot water across the engine then start it.

pajoube · Feb 5, 2004

I have tried to be proactive this winter instead of reactive. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Seems if I plug in the heater when the engine is warm does a great job. If I start up the tractor every 3 or 4 days and warm up the engine I have no problem. But forget, starting is sure a pain. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
PJ

bubenberg · Feb 5, 2004

Yes, to the annoyance of winter as you said: ( But forget, starting is sure a pain. 
PJ ) but what would we talk about if there were no problems /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

MossRoad · Feb 5, 2004

The only thing I can think of is I have Mobil1 for engine oil. That's the only thing I've done that can explain easier cranking of the engine. Everything else is stock as I bought it. I've never pulled the plugs. I changed the engine oil filter back when I switched to Mobil1. I've always performed the scheduled maintenance at the intervals that Power Trac and Kohler specifies, sometimes a little earlier than recommended. I use stock Power Trac hydraulic filters. The hydraulic fluid is whatever came with the unit... I suspect it is 10W40. I've wondered about switching that to Mobil1 as well, but that's big $$$. Could be worth it if it prolongs the life of the machine. I have never had to add any fliuds to anything in 2 years. All levels are right where they should be. It only has about 132 hours on it.

The battery terminals are still coated with that greasy stuff from the factory and when I charge the battery I put the + clamp on the + terminal and the - clamp on a nut on the side of the engine.

I've washed it a few times and keep the engine compartment as clean as I can without being weird about it.

Maybe it is the Mobil1 engine oil. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Trev · Feb 5, 2004

( I have tried to be proactive this winter instead of reactive. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Seems if I plug in the heater when the engine is warm does a great job. If I start up the tractor every 3 or 4 days and warm up the engine I have no problem. But forget, starting is sure a pain. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
PJ )

Can you guys explain to me why all these starting problems occur? I have never had to turn my key for more time than it takes to turn it and release it.. that is to say, a twitch of the wrist.. and the little Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel is idling smoothly at 800 RPM. I wait a few minutes, bump it up to about 1200, go in the house for a cup of coffee, and then go do my work.

When I first got the tractor (JD4300, circa 2000) the farmer neighbors told me to get the heaters that my dealer was telling me not to bother with. They said sure, it will start fine when it's new, but a few years down the road?

So, what is it that makes some tractors start fine in the sub-zero, and others utterly fail to crank? I find it hard to believe that we have such different experiences. I used the standard battery until just a month ago or so, and then replaced it. Keep a Battery Tender on it now, and keep the block and hydraulic heaters running if I think I might need it within the next 8 hours or so. But even without the heaters, it starts within one second.

What makes this difference? An old tractor should start as well as a new one, no?

Bob

MossRoad · Feb 5, 2004

I think you need to ask, "A new tractor should start as well as a new one, yes?" /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

PTRich · Feb 5, 2004

The only thing I do different is use Mobil 1 in the kohler also. Maybe this is the reason, I have never had a problem starting.

rdbrumfield · Feb 5, 2004

frosting the plugs is caused by the vacuum of the piston when sucking in the cold air into a cold engine. Same as icing up a carbuerator venturi. Either is a good starting aid, but I like to use a small propane bottle you get at the hardware store to give the engine a little heat into the intake. It usually doesn't take much and is much easier on the rings. Take the filters out first and just warm the air in the can and crank while doing so.

Charlie_Iliff · Feb 5, 2004

frosting the plugs is caused by the vacuum of the piston when sucking in the cold air into a cold engine. Same as icing up a carbuerator venturi. 
Randall: I can be convinced, I guess, but the plugs are a long way in, with a low-pressure intake manifold condensing both water and fuel. Is frost on the plugs really a demonstrated phenomenon, or is it really plug fouling with liquid? Although there is somewhat reduced pressure during the intake stroke, the compression stroke follows immediately, with adiabatic heating even if it doesn't light. I haven't tried to research any tests, so I certainly could be way off. I did a little research on carburetor ice years ago, because I experienced it. Mine was on a warm high-humidity summer day, where the difference in temperature at the venturi was a lot, causing both condensation and freezing. I've not seen a study showing actual ice farther in the intake or in the cylinder, but I was reading for that. Do you know of any?