Compressed air lines in garage

[DonS]

Does anyone have any tips on installing compressed air lines in a garage? I have a craftsman 150 psi vertical compressor and would like to put it outside. Make a little shed for it to keep the noise down. A buddy of mine used PVC and never had any problems with it breaking...usually he keeps it at 100 psi and a inside gauge to monitor pressure. It will mainly be used for cleaning things off and filling.

 

[Glenn9643]

I've read many questions similar to yours regarding PVC, and almost every response indicated the dangers of the PVC bursting eventually. I'm looking into plumbing my shop for air and plan to use 3/4" black steel pipe or copper. My unresolved questions relate to where to put the drops and drains in the shop rather than what material to use.

 

[BillyP]

The use of PVC for a compressed air line has been discussed here before. If memory serves me correctly, most wouldn't use PVC, due to the fact it could burst.

Myself, I wouldn't be afraid to use it for that purpose. You'd need to run some type of flex line or rubber hose from the compressor to the PVC, due to vibration and movement of the air compressor. In areas that the PVC could accidentally be hit, you could use black pipe.

You could also run the PVC up high and T off and come down with metal. This way you could have several air sources throughout the building.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> You'd need to run some type of flex line or rubber hose from the compressor to the PVC, due to vibration and movement of the air compressor. </font>

I found a piece of hydraulic line I picked up at TSC works well and is not too expensive. Comes with NPT ends on it that screw right into normal pipe threads...

Myself I decided to go with copper tubing. One advantage of copper is that it transfers heat best, and causes water to drop out of the air faster than plastic does. You can set up an initial vertical run, and use it as a course water separator, if you put a drain valve at the bottom...

 

[BillyP]

Henro, you could be right about the water thing. But couldn't you put a water separator right off the compressor?

By the way 1/2" schedule 80 PVC is rated at 850 PSI and 3/4" at 690.

 

[Junkman]

I would run 1" around the shop from the compressor and make the drops 3/4". Put a tee in the drop pipe for the air take off and a drain at the bottom of each drop pipe. That will be the best for eliminating moisture problems. The water filter at the compressor gets most of the moisture, but not all the moisture, unless it is big and expensive.

 

[OkeeDon]

I too have read many similar inquiries both here and on a sports car racing forum in which I participate. In every case, someone warns of the dangers of PVC bursting and shattering, but no one knows of any actual cases of that happening. On the other hand, I've been using PVC for that purpose for more than 30 years, the latest in a shop that I've had for almost 15 years, with no problems. The only thing I try to avoid is exposure to the South Florida sun. I have bumped my airlines with equipment a couple of times and broken it. In each case, it broke and the air leaked out quickly, but it never shattered or exploded, and I'm not sure I understand how it could -- even if the pressure discovered a weak spot, once that weak spot is breached, the air leaks out, and no further pressure exists.

In any case, all I'm doing is relating my personal experience, so if you do what I did and it explodes, don't blame me. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

In my experience, Junkman is exactly correct in his recommendations for size and configuration. I used PVC ball valves at the bottom of each vertical drop for drainage. Just remember to keep your overhead lines at a slight slope leading to the vertical drops. Periodically let all the pressure out of the tank so any moisture in your first rising pipe/hose drains back in the tank, and keep the tank drained. I also used a pressure regulator that was combined with a water filter. If you use the air for painting, don't use a line oiler for the air tools -- the oil will get in the paint. Instead, oil each tool manually or install an oiler on the lines that are not used for painting.

 

[em14]

Here is a site that has some very good help in laying out your air system:www.tptools.com. Here is a site that has a great but very expensive alum air line tubing and fittings for the tubing. This is very nice stuff but ... it is very expensive!
Leo

 

[Keoke]

Don, I agree with you on the use of PVC, schedule 40 grey (elec) is what I use.
On the top horizontal run, consider turning the drop tee's upward and make the drop down run using two elbows
(180 deg's.). Make both ell's street type, all slip (male & female).
This will keep whatever water in your top lateral run from simply gravity dropping down the tees on your vertical drop down runs.

 

[Junkman]

The moisture is carried in the warm compressed air and only condenses when the air cools. It will still accumulate in the down pipe if you don't have drains.