Compressor for a shop
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3Ts
Elite Member
^ +1 for blowing debris out.
for a compressor: I have a 60 gallon vertical tank and a copper pipe header down the length of my shop. I have a "radiator" next to the compressor to cool the air and drop any water that's in it. There's about 40' of pipe in 2' of horizontal space before it heads to the other end of the shop. I also have a 2' section of 3/4" hydraulic return hose (working psi of 200) to act as a vibration isolator between the tank and the copper pipe attached to the wall of the shop. And a pressure gauge on the copper pipe.
I use 3/4" copper for my main runs and 1/2" drops. I have 25 or 30 feet of hose on my reels and it's to short. I'm going to be replacing it with 50' or maybe a little more. A hose reel next to the roll up door is needed and enough hose on the reel to reach the equipment outside.
An outside shed for the compressor is really nice if you can accommodate one, and an outside hose reel near your equipment as well. I've also seen a compressor in the garage plumbed underground to an outbuilding. Interesting idea but not sure I'd actually want that though.
As other's have stated, never use PVC. I've seen the aftermath of what happens when the PVC pipe fails. I've seen it used for air in industrial settings. It hold air just fine until it doesn't and the result is quite spectacular.
for a compressor: I have a 60 gallon vertical tank and a copper pipe header down the length of my shop. I have a "radiator" next to the compressor to cool the air and drop any water that's in it. There's about 40' of pipe in 2' of horizontal space before it heads to the other end of the shop. I also have a 2' section of 3/4" hydraulic return hose (working psi of 200) to act as a vibration isolator between the tank and the copper pipe attached to the wall of the shop. And a pressure gauge on the copper pipe.
I use 3/4" copper for my main runs and 1/2" drops. I have 25 or 30 feet of hose on my reels and it's to short. I'm going to be replacing it with 50' or maybe a little more. A hose reel next to the roll up door is needed and enough hose on the reel to reach the equipment outside.
An outside shed for the compressor is really nice if you can accommodate one, and an outside hose reel near your equipment as well. I've also seen a compressor in the garage plumbed underground to an outbuilding. Interesting idea but not sure I'd actually want that though.
As other's have stated, never use PVC. I've seen the aftermath of what happens when the PVC pipe fails. I've seen it used for air in industrial settings. It hold air just fine until it doesn't and the result is quite spectacular.
dstig1
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I'll disagree with this. Pumping to higher pressure adds to capacity. You won't use air at 175, but you get a lot more air regulated down to 100 psi from a 175 tank than you do from a 100 tank.
I have a nice 2-stage 80 gal vertical tank that pumps to 175 made by a local company called C-Aire. Coming right out of the tank I have a regulator set to 100 psi so all the lines are pressurized to that. I can run air tools like ROS sanders and the compressor can keep up OK, and those things take 15-25 cfm of air at 90 psi. The noise is an issue but where I keep it in one side of the shop (sort of split in half), I don't hear it too bad if I am in the other side. If I am using it heavy for the ROS or working on the side where it is then I have hearing protection on anyways. I leave my tank pressurized all the time and drain daily. I shut off the power and close the outlet valve when done for the day.
Another vote for never using PVC for lines. I'll add copper to the mix, which is what i did. Grade L is suitable for this. Can be spendy but works quite well and easier to install than iron pipe a lot of times.
ROUSTABOUT
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My brother bought some aluminum tubing made for compressor lines. It was shielded in blue plastic. Dad and I ran it and put connectors by all 4 doors. It came in a roll like copper. Had compression fittings with it.
The maintenance guy at my last job plumbed the whole shop air with grey schedule 80 pvc. After the 3rd or 4th blowout, the boss made him pull it all out and replace with iron. It was a big shop with multiple buildings so there was a lot of it.
Rather than throwing it in the dumpster, I told him to throw it in my pickup. It worked great as conduit for the wiring of my pole barn. I still have a big pile of it out back, mostly 1” and 1/2”
Rather than throwing it in the dumpster, I told him to throw it in my pickup. It worked great as conduit for the wiring of my pole barn. I still have a big pile of it out back, mostly 1” and 1/2”
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Squirrel Tooth Alice
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I'll agree with both of you. Compressing air is a ridiculously inefficient process, and the higher the pressure, the less efficient it becomes... and the harder the compressor has to work.
That said, it sure is nice to have as much air as you need, whenever you need it!
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3Ts
Elite Member
^ +1 - My compressor is capable of 155 psi, I use air at 100 psi, I have my compressor to cut in at 105 and cutout at 140 psi. I don't want to stress the compressor to much, but want plenty of air when I want it. I leave my system pressurized at all times.
Root Cause
Platinum Member
When you install the lines, put them all on a very slight slope with one low point. Put a drain plug at the low point to drain the water when finished.
After installation, jack up the pressure a bit higher than what you would use and turn everything off. Go around and listen for leaks. As stated, compressed air is very inefficient and therefore expensive. If saving money isn't important, the compressor will run a lot less if all the fittings are air-tight.
I worked in a factory that went through and fixed all the leaks. They found that they didn't need the 110 psi it was set for and reduced it to 90. That saved about 6k / month if I remember right. Not a perfect example but it's all relative.
After installation, jack up the pressure a bit higher than what you would use and turn everything off. Go around and listen for leaks. As stated, compressed air is very inefficient and therefore expensive. If saving money isn't important, the compressor will run a lot less if all the fittings are air-tight.
I worked in a factory that went through and fixed all the leaks. They found that they didn't need the 110 psi it was set for and reduced it to 90. That saved about 6k / month if I remember right. Not a perfect example but it's all relative.
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repete
Veteran Member
I shared this a while back and will post it here again. My shop has a 5HP 60 gallon single stage compressor. I went with a SS because I wanted the CFM over time for whatever I may wish such as painting or sandblasting. I think the key to making an informed purchase is to know what you need. Do not buy more than you need in CFM as well as pressure. Storing a lot of air in a tank due to the higher pressure of a two stage compressor also has the sometimes negative affect of not giving you what you want in CFM when you have exhausted that "reservoir". If you do select a two stage and then regulate it down to say 110 PSI, be sure to add a safety blow off should you have any cord reels or drop hoses not rated for the full capacity of the two stage compressor.
I too clean out hay equipment but I do it with a 1HP portable compressor. Yes it runs a lot but I do not want the mess anywhere near my shop so I do it remotely.
I added a solenoid valve to the discharge at the tank on my compressor that only opens when the shop lights are on. I do not fear blowing a cord reel hose or yellow drop line at the lathe or mill. Additionally, when I come into the shop and turn the lights on I can tell when I have a leak because I can hear the overhead steel piping and drop cords fill. In fact, I went into the shop yesterday and turned the lights on and I heard the system fill. I looked around for a leak and found a small break at the end of the cord reel and repaired it. I am appreciative of the fact that if it had blown in the middle of the night the solenoid valve would have protected the compressor from burning itself up.
Gregg
I too clean out hay equipment but I do it with a 1HP portable compressor. Yes it runs a lot but I do not want the mess anywhere near my shop so I do it remotely.
I added a solenoid valve to the discharge at the tank on my compressor that only opens when the shop lights are on. I do not fear blowing a cord reel hose or yellow drop line at the lathe or mill. Additionally, when I come into the shop and turn the lights on I can tell when I have a leak because I can hear the overhead steel piping and drop cords fill. In fact, I went into the shop yesterday and turned the lights on and I heard the system fill. I looked around for a leak and found a small break at the end of the cord reel and repaired it. I am appreciative of the fact that if it had blown in the middle of the night the solenoid valve would have protected the compressor from burning itself up.
3/4" Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 110V AC Normally Closed Water, air, Diesel.: Industrial Solenoid Valves: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
3/4" Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 110V AC Normally Closed Water, air, Diesel.: Industrial Solenoid Valves: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
Gregg
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KennyG
Elite Member
Unfortunately it seems Northern Tool may have discontinued the unit I bought recently but the super quiet feature is great. You can stand next to it and have a conversation. Mine is 120 volt, about 20 gallons and made in Taiwan. I compared it to the similar HF model and it is much better built.