Compressor for a shop

[repete]

I simply added a power switch with pilot light by the man door, that turns system on when needed. Then added a manual shut off valve at tank next to the air dryer. I personally have no need to keep system pressurized so i dont. If i know i will be needing air, i simply flip on switch as i enter building.

I tied it to the lights simply because I had teenage boys. If I look out of the house and see the lights on.... I also put a limit switch on the large bay door as well as a timer on the propane furnace. Door open, no heat. You only get one hour of heat max and the system shuts off or turn the dial again (I have a personal key override). The only addition I would have made in retrospect is a coin operated timer for the furnace....

 

[RancherGuy]

What happened to the OP? (spav1)

Here is an idea that may help someone. I have a barn without electricity, but need air. I purchased a 120 gallon used propane tank. My understanding is that they are designed for 250 psi everyday use. Added wheels to move around the floor and plumbing for cut-off valve and air hose quick connector. When I need air, I use my tractor to carry it to the house/garage to recharge periodically. The volume makes it good for most everything but pneumatic tools.

If someone wants a bigger tank, I might suggest adding a similar tank as a reservoir T'ed to the supply line as an auxiliary tank. My barn has 16' eves and I have even considered mounting it high off the ground between roof and wall to preserve floor space. All propane tanks I have encountered have NPT ports on the bottom and top.

 

[acarr1]

I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for setting up an air compressor in a new shop I am doing. I have always used "portable" type compressors with 150-200psi capacity. I do not know a lot about compressors but do have need to be able to fill up large tractor and front end loader type tires with air. I also use "a lot" of air to blow out swather heads and other debris from equipment after field work and my existing compressors run out of air faster than I need so I have to wait for the tank to re fill. Other than that, the smaller portable type compressors usually do fine. What is the difference between two stage compressors and any other advise or experience would be welcomed. I am thinking I would pipe some outlets throughout the shop to be able to hook into different areas with hoses depending on where I am working on the equipment. Not long runs, but maybe 50 feet or so. Thanks in advance for advise.

Don't worry about how much pressure a compressor puts out. Almost any compressor will make enough pressure for your needs. Your main concerns should be volume of air the compressor makes, which is measured in cfm. Also, unlike most equipment, it's not good to get an oversized air compressor. You don't want one that turns on, runs for a short time and then turns back off. The compressor needs to run long enough to get the block good and hot so that it burns off excess moisture. I know it's nice to have a lot of air when using the blow gun, but you can accomplish that with tank capacity, not just cfm. Regulators and water filters are nice, but not necessary if you just air tires and use a blow gun. Just know that if you ever run any pneumatic tools you will need both a regulator and water filter.

 

[grsthegreat]

Im not a friend of Harbor Freight….but i can arrest to the fact that their $500 air dryer is absolutely amazing. When i got mine years ago it was $349.00. .. loke 10 years ago. Still works great. I have a paper water trap downstream from dryer, and it has NEVER trapped any moisture. Nothing gets past the dryer. I have a cnc plasma table…cant have moisture in line.

 

[Fallon]

It is vitally important to drain the Receiver often. Not a pleasant thought of having this bomb explode as many have due to corrosion. Check on Google for live explosions.
Sadly one cannot purchase replacement tanks even from Campbell Hausfield.
An upright takes less room, CFM's are important and are rated at 100 PSI. Spray guns require 90. Some receivers (Pigs) are dated on a support leg and should be destroyed after expiry date.
A separate outdoor enclosure and auto drain are very desirable as they are noisy.

Not particularly cheap but https://www.compressorworld.com/air-tanks & a ton of other places sell them. Manchester tank is probably the OEM for halft the compressor tanks out there.

 

[Fallon]

What kind of PEX fittings and air dryer/cooler setups are you guys running?

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Personally I put a 3/4" RapidAir Max kit & some additional parts probably around 7 years ago.

I used 3/4" hydraulic line to go from the compressor to my filter, dryer & regulator manifold on the wall. Cheap at the farm store, flexible & rated to over 2,000psi. Flexible means you can shuffle the compressor around a hair if needed & it also dampens vibrations from the rest of the system. RapidAir parts from the manifold to the rest of my drops.

 

[grsthegreat]

My shop was piped for air in type L copper 3/4" line 10+ years ago. now days i would need a 30 year loan to pay for the copper.

 

[Mcdust]

Use copper, iron, or PEX pipe. Never use PVC pipe for air line. It fragments like a grenade when it breaks & is brittle.

Only set the compressor for the pressure you need. Don't get something compressing to 175psi if you only need 100psi. Lots of wasted energy & CFM doing unnecessary work.

Not all 5hp compressors are equal. Many are way over rated. When comparing, look at the CFM they deliver at a standard pressure. To some degree you can also compare amp ratings. Most motors are similar efficiency, so more amps means more power.

I got a good 5hp Quincy with an 80 gallon tank. Cost a fair bit more than a 5hp Quincy at the farm store, but has more power & what not. In all fairness most of the "5hp" 60 or 80 gallon units are good for a lot of home shops & a good deal.

 

[Mcdust]

I have the 60 Gallon 15.4 CFM Quincy and love it. I do a lot of needle scaling and grinding no problem. A little noisy but I'm wearing ear protection anyhow.

 

[lpakiz]

To those of you that might be considering a solenoid valve tied to the lights to shut off the compressed air lines when not being used: Consider a "motorized ball valve" instead. The MBV will open or close, then needs no further electricity to maintain either position. A NC solenoid valve needs to be energized constantly to remain open. In the case of turning on the air with the lights, you need a NC valve. Energizing the lights energizes the valve, of course.
MBVs are available reasonably from EBay for sure, probably Amazon.