Compressor issue

[Dennis Mohn]

Before taking the compressor apart, to find a problem that may or may not be there, go to the larger extention cord , or, run the longer air hose. Remember that beyond 100 ft you will also have air pressure drop because of the length of the run. Continuing to run on an extension cord that cannot carry what the compressor needs will only damage the compressor motor

 

[repete]

I have used good quality 5/8" garden hoses with adaptors at the end to extend my distance from a compressor to a work site when using a nailer. Ran 200' to a job years ago.

Do you own a volt meter? If you do not, it should be your next purchase for situations as you describe.

 

[3Ts]

Most air compressor tanks that fail just start leaking nothing "explosive" or dramatic.

I was in a small shop (24' x 24') when a 20 gallon 125 PSI tank let go. No shrapnel, but the dust and debris filled the shop. Turns out the tank rusted thru on the bottom and a small hole quickly became bigger and released all the compressed air in just 2 or 3 seconds, so it was dramatic, and not sure about the "explosive" part but it sure seemed like it.

 

[5030]

There is one in your picture of the motor. The FLA is Full Load Amps. Sometimes you'll see a LRA (locked rotor amps) which is how much it will draw if the motor is not turning. Keep in mind that the starting of the motor will draw more than the running current.

View attachment 831780

Usually starting infeed amps are 3 times running amperage Starting amps always refer to locked rotor amps at least in my experience and running amps can be impacted by capacitance star-run as well. Lets just say it takes a gob to start my 7.5 horse on my Quincy, unloader or not.

 

[5030]

Most air compressor tanks that fail just start leaking nothing "explosive" or dramatic.

And usually at the bottom of the receiver where undrained condensate lingers from not draining it in a timely manner and why I use an electrically powered timed drain valve on both of my principal compressors. They ain't cheap but neither is a new receiver, especially the big ones I have. My smallest one is 175 gallon and the other one is 200.

 

[big bubba]

10 ga 100' cord is the standard for 15a power tools & the like.

 

[LouNY]

If the OP has to run power that far for his compressor it is much better to switch it over to 230volt using a 3 conductor plus ground cords set. Running electric motors of 3/4Hp and above on both legs helps keep your power feed balanced and the electric motors will start much easier on 220 as long as they are configurable 115/230 as most are, including the OP's per the motor data on the first post.
Otherwise use hoses as has been suggested.

 

[MTGreen]

And usually at the bottom of the receiver where undrained condensate lingers from not draining it in a timely manner and why I use an electrically powered timed drain valve on both of my principal compressors. They ain't cheap but neither is a new receiver, especially the big ones I have. My smallest one is 175 gallon and the other one is 200.

I really like the "Moisture Minders" that trigger from the unloader every time the pump shuts off. Purely mechanical/pneumatic with no wires or timers. I've got them on my larger compressors including an IR T30 from the 80s with the original 80gal receiver.

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