Concrete Anchors for Basketball Goal

[GaryBDavis]

I need some concrete anchors to install my basketball goal for my kids inside the shop. The post has a base plate welded to the bottom that is made to mount on four 5/8” threaded rods. You are supposed to set the threaded rods into the cement slab when it’s poured, but I didn’t do that.

The concrete is an engineered slab with beams (trenches) and I’m installing it over one of those beams. So, the concrete at that spot is 18 inches deep and 12 inches wide.

I’ve installed Hilti anchors before, but only in the 3/8” size. As one option, I could get this type of anchor in the size needed for 5/8” and screw in some threaded rod. I’m not sure if that would be strong enough as the plate will be suspended above the floor by an inch or so and there would be some lateral movement.

Somewhere I’ve seen some epoxy that was made for this purpose. You drill a hole, squeeze in some epoxy and insert your threaded rod. But, I can’t remember where I saw it.

So, I’m up for suggestions. The post base plate requires 4ea 5/8” threaded rods set in a square shape 9 inches apart.

 

[woodlot]

Goal? Around these parts we call 'em a "hoop"

 

[dooleysm]

Is this a new goal or did you get it used? The reason I'm asking is, mine had a similar hole pattern to yours, but (and I think it's a pretty big but) there was a 3 foot chunk of steel buried in concrete that the goal post bolted to. Now, I have a pretty nice goal setup that is adjustable, large backboard, break away rim, etc. It's designed to lower the height and dunk on, so it's gotta support alot of weight.

Still though, even with a basic setup you're looking at alot of weight up there waving around when a ball hits it. Be careful, you don't want that thing falling down on you after a layup conks off the rim.

 

[GaryBDavis]

I bought it brand new from Hoops Dallas. There is no metal base to install, just a template to bolt the allthread to when you sink it into the wet concrete.

After I posted this, I had a brain storm and called them. Turns out they relocate them quite often and use both Hilti anchors and Rocktite to reset allthread or bolts depending on the application. They did ask alot of questions about my cement slab to make sure it would support it and was thick enough for me to drill down deep enough to make it secure.

This is also a goal that is "dunk" rated. I've had a 300+lb guy hang on it before! I paid almost $2,000 for it (ouch).

 

[crbr]

I need some concrete anchors to install my basketball goal for my kids inside the shop. The post has a base plate welded to the bottom that is made to mount on four 5/8” threaded rods. You are supposed to set the threaded rods into the cement slab when it’s poured, but I didn’t do that.

The concrete is an engineered slab with beams (trenches) and I’m installing it over one of those beams. So, the concrete at that spot is 18 inches deep and 12 inches wide.

I’ve installed Hilti anchors before, but only in the 3/8” size. As one option, I could get this type of anchor in the size needed for 5/8” and screw in some threaded rod. I’m not sure if that would be strong enough as the plate will be suspended above the floor by an inch or so and there would be some lateral movement.

Somewhere I’ve seen some epoxy that was made for this purpose. You drill a hole, squeeze in some epoxy and insert your threaded rod. But, I can’t remember where I saw it.

So, I’m up for suggestions. The post base plate requires 4ea 5/8” threaded rods set in a square shape 9 inches apart.

I'd much rather use a 5/8" Hilti than epoxy. We use Hiltis, and Phillips on base plates for seismically designed pipe hangers and support. They will carry the load for your needs. You can get a length to suit your application. Grout under the plate to transfer the loading. Power plant designers do it often. That may very well be where you heard about an epoxy. There is an epoxy based grout filler.

 

[cyberknight]

I have used a product made by Hilti for fastening to concrete but cannot remember the name of it. It is in there catalog. You first drill the proper size hole , then place an epoxy capsuol into the hole, then screw the threaded rod into it and let it harden. We use them for mounting machines and they hold up well to vibrations and such. Have not had one pull out yet after many years.
Glenn

 

[GaryBDavis]

Okay, here is the path I'm headed down. I purchased a 20lb tub of anchor cement and 5/8" threaded rod at the local home improvement store. The anchor cement cures to 7,000psi which is stronger than the concrete slab. They had some anchor expoy but a calk style tube of it was almost $20. The 20lb container of anchor cement was around $12.

I'll make a drill template for my air powered 45lb rock drill and drill out 1.5" holes down about a foot or so. I'll bolt the threaded rod to the mounting template that came with the goal post, fill the holes with cement and set the rods.

From what I can tell, anchor cement is just a high strength cement with an additive to make it expand slightly when setting up.

 

[GaryBDavis]

Here was the final result. Drilled four 1.5" holes 12" deep and set 5/8' threaded rods in anchor cement purchased at the local home improvement center. The cement came in a 20lb tub and cost me $13. It sets up in 10 minutes (no messing around) and cures to 7,000psi. I was hanging on the rim 24 hours later.

 

[Bird]

That anchor cement must be some tough stuff. Looks like you did a neat job.

 

[RichNJKubota]

My 2 post car lift is anchored with bolts set in epoxy. I wrapped each bolt in teflon tape before setting into the epoxy. The idea beign that I may be able to unscrew the bolt out of the epoxy if needed.

 

[GaryBDavis]

Initially, I thought I would use anchor expy. It's more expensive, but cures faster. I think the faster curing time is why it's used by contractors. It's worth the extra cost not to make a second trip to install whatever is being mounted. If I had installed this where the concrete slab was only 4" to 5" thick, I would have used the epoxy. I like the idea about the teflon tape so they could be taken out later on.

 

[Defective]

If you need anything close full strength from the epoxy, do NOT do the tape thing. Epoxy is not very strong mechanically. What makes it hold anchor bolts so well is that it bonds to the steel and the concrete.

One way to demonstrate the weakness is to try cutting a bit of epoxy with your pocket knife...pretty easy.

OTOH...if you're just using the anchors to keep something from moving around, the tape trick sounds good.

 

[jejeosborne]

I would not trust the anchors myself. Basket ball goals (hoops) take a lot of beating and vibration and if it fails it will come down in a hurry. You may want to protect yourself (physically and financially) with a strap welded to the I-beam behind. Did you consider just using the I-beam as an attachment point?

 

[GaryBDavis]

I was thinking of welding a brace to the vertical I-beam behind it, but after talking with the company that sold me the goal, decided against it.

If the concrete slab is thick enough enough to handle the load then it can support the goal using their retrofit mounting method. The anchor cement is about twice as strong (7,000psi verses 3500psi) as the concrete the slab.

 

[7mmrum]

Maybe I'm not understanding what you are doing but why wouldn't you just use Concrete expansion bolts? Similar the the link below

Wedge Anchor ~ Thunderstud® ~ Concrete fasteners for concrete ~ Concrete Fastening Systems

I have bought these at Lowes 5/8" I think is the biggest the sell

Once you drill the hole, drop the expansion bolt in, tighten the nut up, to get a good tight hold. Remove the nuts, the threaded bolt probably will stick up an inch or so. Then place your hoop frame plate through the threaded heads of the bolts. Then put the nuts back on and tigheten 'er down?

This way the plate will be flush with the floor? I read through the previous posts pretty quick, maybe I missed something.

 

[crbr]

Nice doors.

 

[jsborn]

Never seen a hoop like that. All we ever had was a bicycle rim nailed to a tree.

Nice job I worked in the power plant industry and we used the epoxy on a lot of equip with no prob.

 

[GaryBDavis]

Maybe I'm not understanding what you are doing but why wouldn't you just use Concrete expansion bolts? Similar the the link below

Wedge Anchor ~ Thunderstud® ~ Concrete fasteners for concrete ~ Concrete Fastening Systems

I have bought these at Lowes 5/8" I think is the biggest the sell

Once you drill the hole, drop the expansion bolt in, tighten the nut up, to get a good tight hold. Remove the nuts, the threaded bolt probably will stick up an inch or so. Then place your hoop frame plate through the threaded heads of the bolts. Then put the nuts back on and tigheten 'er down?

This way the plate will be flush with the floor? I read through the previous posts pretty quick, maybe I missed something.

The plate is designed to be off the floor so you can level it out. There is nut on the bottom and top sides of the plate. Most concrete anchors are designed to hold a load directly against the floor. It's also hard to mount althread in most concrete anchors. In the end, I suppose either way would have worked.