Concrete anchors

[WinterDeere]

Oh, yeah... there is definitely a huge range of "stainless" out there, especially now with Asian vendors flooding the market through Amazon.com and the like.

Even among legitimately-graded stainless, there's 18-8 (ANSI 304) versus 306 and others. You might use 306 underwater in a marine environment, giving up some strength, but 18-8 (304) for mounting a patio umbrella. Probably 99% of the hardware I stock is 18-8, made to ANSI 304 standard.

18-8 stainless is pretty close to grade 2 common hardware, in terms of ultimate tensile strength. Yeah, not the strongest stuff available, but you can usually up-size the bolt as needed to achieve the required tensile strength. The point was only that thread failures should not happen, the bolt should fail way before the thread, in a matched-materials situation with nearly any UN fastener system.

This was actually one of the design criteria 100 years ago for the "Unified National" fastener system we use today, that minimum thread pull out stregnth be something like 4x the corresponding fastener tensile strength. Their reasoning was that it is usually much easier and cheaper to extract the remnant of a broken bolt or stud, than to re-thread a female thread. So when properly used, the system almost gaurantees the fastener will fail before the female thread.

Things like galling between stainless fasteners can frustrate this system, but antisieze on the threads will almost always fix that problem.

 

[2manyrocks]

The other way to do this without any drilling is to use a heavy counterweight on the base.

 

[WinterDeere]

The other way to do this without any drilling is to use a heavy counterweight on the base.

That's what I have now. But it takes up more space, affecting how you can place chairs under it. Also, the metal base trapped under the counterweights is powdercoated steel, and leaves rust stains on the concrete. The anodized aluminum mounting plate that I'd use with these anchors resolves both issues.

 

[otlski]

We used epoxy anchor kits at Cape Kennedy to secure equipment in the old Shuttle processing facility. The concrete floor was allegedly 10 inches thick. No wonder too, our hammer drill went into it way faster than it ever should have. It was like hardened sand.

I see McMaster has some but I don't think that is what we used. I will look through my work emails for it.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[rumwrks]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Red-Head-10-Pack-5-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-Wedge-Anchors/1000775748

Probably old fashioned but I prefer the hammer in lead insert anchors myself . I find they distribute the load more evenly over the concrete than the bottom wedge type.

Example: Bolt Depot - Woodscrew anchors, Lead, #6-#8 x 1"

 

[ponytug]

We used epoxy anchor kits at Cape Kennedy to secure equipment in the old Shuttle processing facility. The concrete floor was allegedly 10 inches thick. No wonder too, our hammer drill went into it way faster than it ever should have. It was like hardened sand.

I see McMaster has some but I don't think that is what we used. I will look through my work emails for it.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Sika Anchorflex?

All the best,

Peter

 

[sandman2234]

The other way to do this without any drilling is to use a heavy counterweight on the base.

That was my thoughts also!
David from jax

 

[EddieWalker]

Probably old fashioned but I prefer the hammer in lead insert anchors myself . I find they distribute the load more evenly over the concrete than the bottom wedge type.

Example: Bolt Depot - Woodscrew anchors, Lead, #6-#8 x 1"

I have a few of those in different sizes in my truck. I use them when attaching bigger things to brick, like gate hinges. I like them better than the plastic anchors, but I still use the plastic ones for smaller stuff.

 

[caver]

We used epoxy anchor kits at Cape Kennedy to secure equipment in the old Shuttle processing facility. The concrete floor was allegedly 10 inches thick. No wonder too, our hammer drill went into it way faster than it ever should have. It was like hardened sand.

I see McMaster has some but I don't think that is what we used. I will look through my work emails for it.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

For my timber frame the plans specified four galvanized 5/8" threaded rod at each corner. A backup tie down for storms. They supplied the Simpson tie down brackets but I had to buy the epoxy. They suggested Set XP. The downside is it was over $50 for the dual tube AND I had to buy a double barrel dispensing gun which wasn't cheap either.

 

[grsthegreat]

I only use the (simpson)Titan HD screw in anchors. Heck, they hold up the shelving of most pallet racking systems ive seen installed. But your right, there not ment to be continually removed and reinstalled in same hole. I use these to set generators to base concrete also.