Concrete footing question

   / Concrete footing question #31  
Pretty good video, I enjoyed it!
 
   / Concrete footing question #32  
Small forms like that just use a poor mans vibrator. {Sawzall no blade ] Just run shoe of Sawzall around form oh yea pull trigger.:drink:
 
   / Concrete footing question #33  
Nice video. I like the fast playback...
 
   / Concrete footing question #34  
Thanks for the video, that was fun. Was there any issues getting the forms off? I always use screws when building my forms so they are easy to take apart.

How many yards of concrete did you use?

Will you be able to drain the water? I'd be worried that over time, your soil under your concrete might become saturated and lead to movement if you have something heavy drive over it.

Loved the dogs under the truck!!!
 
   / Concrete footing question
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Thanks for the video, that was fun. Was there any issues getting the forms off? I always use screws when building my forms so they are easy to take apart.

How many yards of concrete did you use?

Will you be able to drain the water? I'd be worried that over time, your soil under your concrete might become saturated and lead to movement if you have something heavy drive over it.

Loved the dogs under the truck!!!

Forms came off ok, but did use the skid steer to pull of the ones in the back
It took 3 yards
If it ever dries out again, I plan on filling the hole in so that it is level with the drainage ditch on both sides of the road
 
   / Concrete footing question #36  
What was your minimum amount of concrete to buy? You concrete guy didn't seem to be in much of a hurry. Here, it's 4 yard minimum and 45 minutes to dump it. After that, you pay for another hour, which I think is $100
 
   / Concrete footing question
  • Thread Starter
#37  
3 yard minimum. I calculated i needed 3 but ordered 3.5 and only needed 3. He was there for 2 hours and didn't seem to care. Maybe because we talked about fishing the whole time.
 
   / Concrete footing question #38  
Nice project. Hard work, for sure, but you did a great job.
 
   / Concrete footing question #39  
It is hard to tell when people are pulling your leg on a forum. Did you catch the part that said this was a cattle guard? Cattle are prevented from using a major highway. If this is a private gravel road, typically there is a lifetime gate next to it that the concrete trucks have to use.

Engineered drawings? 5000 psi concrete? Vibrators? Funny stuff. The stiff mix is solid advice. I suggest being careful the footing isn't washed out from flash floods or taken out of service by filling up with mud from heavy rains. No one even looks at a cattle guard once it has been in for a few years.

The stiffer mixes are a good idea. Those crimped synthetic macrofibers are cheap if you want to add a few ounces. Also, try not to pour in 100ーF heat. Usually, a fence post is banged on the form and a rod is poked down in several places instead of vibrating. They do make cordless vibrators if you need to fill your tool box. My concrete supplier encourages a 3 yard minimum. Where are you putting the rest of the load?

I hate concrete work. epoxy flake floor Brisbane
Hi guys, I'm doing a few projects outside and need some advice about repairing a bent cattle grid. I have a tubular cattle grid, split in half with 7 tubes on each side. What happened is - the Calor Gas driver drove his lorry over the center of the grid. This caused the pipes to bend down by about an inch, as they have no support there. One side of the grid is now a good inch off the concrete. He only went halfway so only the first section is bent. This looks and sounds terrible each time you drive over it.

I want to straighten the tubes out again. My idea was to put the grid upside down, put some weight on it and hit each tube with a sledgehammer. I'm not convinced this will work tbh so does anyone have any other suggestions?
 
   / Concrete footing question #40  
How much did that lorry weigh? You're going to have to turn the grid over and apply that much pressure (if not more) to reverse the bend, so, no a sledge hammer isn't going to work. Unless you have some heavy duty gear that can apply several tons of force, you'll have to replace it if you want it straight.

(Yes, I know it's an old thread, but it has a new and current post.)
 
 
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