concrete slab for barn

   / concrete slab for barn #11  
I just got a quote to do a 40x40 (6" thick) slab to finish my outbuilding, and they quoted me $4500. That will take roughly 30 yards of concrete, and I recall it was about $110 per yard with fiber mesh added. I think they have some wiggle room in that price, but I'm waiting to see if a neighbor is going to have them do work at the same time...figure if they literally just have to cross the street to go from one job site to the other, it will lower than expenses a bit.
 
   / concrete slab for barn #12  
Site prep is the most important step for your barn and it's floor. As Dave 1949 said, good drainage underneath and good quality stone and gravel, will keep your building from moving. As far as concrete, don't go to thin, if you putting any vehicles or tractors in it, 6" with steel is better.
 
   / concrete slab for barn #13  
Site prep is the most important step ... 6" with steel is better.




You'll be glad for 6" the day you decide you need a lift! Also, central NH can be cold. What about in floor heat? You could maybe run it off solar panels for almost free if the building is sited appropriately.



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   / concrete slab for barn #14  
A friend of mine built me a 24 x 24 garage on my property last summer. For me it's just big enough. I almost went 16 x 20 and then 20 x 20 and boy am I glad I went bigger. Block foundation, 2x4 walls, rafters, asphalt shingles, and siding to match the house. I do electrical work so that part I took care of myself, along with insulating the walls and hanging and painting 1/2" plywood last fall. He set up the mason so I don't know what the guy charged but the floor is 4" thick and the only cracks I've seen are within all the control cuts, which is right where they should be. The finish is nice but they didn't cut all the lines as straight as I would have liked. I put Cure and Seal on the concrete within 24 hours of the pour and it took months for all the green to turn light gray. I was really surprised at how long it took to fully cure. That stuff had a real strong odor but it went down like glue in the heat of the summer and I'm glad I did it. There's a bit of a sheen to it now which I wanted but it's not as glossy as pure sealer. Some of you guys have floors like mirrors which I think looks great and would like in my attached garage some day. I also went with the fiberglass in the mix so you can see it at the surface. I figure it gives a little traction when it's wet so that doesn't bother me, especially since this is just an overgrown shed for the tractor, chipper, splitter, mower, tiller, wheelbarrows, snowblower, etc.

I think you're smart to consider some measure of covering your firewood. In hindsight I would have put a modest overhang off the back wall to cover the woodpile I have back there now. Instead I put down about a foot of gravel and stone dust inside a frame of pressure treated lumber the same width as the garage and six feet deep. I stacked it six feet tall and left about two feet between the pile and the back wall, so there's a ton of wood there but I had to cover it all with tarps. It looks fine but you can't beat an actual roof over it. You gotta check out some of these guys' ideas for storing firewood before you go too far. You might see something you like.

I understand the excitement. I still can't believe how nice it is to have an enclosed storage/shop building near the house with power and shelter from the elements year round. Good luck and post some photos once you get started.

new garage.jpg
 
   / concrete slab for barn #15  
More photos.

Get your firewood under a structural cover if you can. I think it's a better way to go. Live and learn. Maybe I need to build a woodshed now….


New Garage 2.jpgFirewood 2.jpgFirewood 1.jpg
 
   / concrete slab for barn #16  
here in michigan its $98.00 a yard you pour, 4 in slab is fine here for anything the wt. of a car. I am thinking about building my new barn soon then get it weathered in and pour the concrete in early summer i am putting in a 5 to 6 inch slab with at least a 5 in. X16 in deep rat wall around the edges, fiberglass mesh add $ 6.00 per yard some insurance there but as far as the steel mesh its not easy to get in the middle of concrete at all. waste of money it gets pushed down walking on it and when pulling it up it just bends so you have no idea where its at.re-rod edges, cut relief cuts from post to post, that helps then put elasto meric sealer in cuts to make it easy to sweep etc. concrete takes 28 days to fully cure and i rather pour in above freezing temps until cured, we sometimes had to cover the concrete with hay/staw to help keep it from freezing if you must pour in those temps, hope this helps and everyone said alot of great advice
 

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