Confirm I'm doing it right. Adding 3 spool for remotes

[Everhard]

Hi all, I just picked up a 3 spool to add 3 remotes to my tractor - Kioti Ck20s. Currently it's got the stock one remote (no factory option for more) which I use for the hydraulic top link or the backhoe when mounted.

My plan is to hook up the 3 spool just like the backhoe hooks up - I'll hook the 3 spool into the factory remotes, flip the remote lever into the detent position which will then allow me to use the 3 spool. (Obviously I'm skipping over the details of setting up the outlets from the spool where hydraulics will hook up, mounting the spool etc. )

Am I missing anything with regards to the hydraulics or will this work as I'm anticipating?

Thanks all,
E.

 

[ericm979]

If you connect the 3 spool's P port to the stock remote's T port (plumb the valves serially) you'll be able to use all four remotes to operate things rather than using the one remote to operate the new 3 spool.

 

[Everhard]

The stock valve is bolts directly to the body so there's no external ports on it aside from the 2 lines going to the quick disconnects at the rear? (Hope I'm making sense) for example it's not like the loader spool that has lines plumbed to and from it.

Not that I wouldn't be happy with 4 ports!

I have half debated plumbing it after the loader valve but I'd rather not cut into lines if I don't have to.

E.

 

[ericm979]

There has to be four ports on the stock valve. In and out are connected to the quick connects. And Pressure and Tank ports for the valve to get pressure from the tractor and to pass it on to the rest of the hydraulic system (the 3pt usually being the last in the chain as it's valve dumps in to the tank).

Even if the valve is bolted to the transmission and the T port goes to the 3pt without a line there has to be a line to the P port that is receiving pressure from the loader valve's PB port. You can insert your valve into the chain there.

You don't need to (and should not) cut any lines. You can disconnect them and connect your lines. For example you can disconnect the line from the loader's PB port to the stock valve and connect your line to the PB port. That line runs to the new valve's P port. The new valves's T port has a line that runs back to the area of the loader valve and connects to the original line that was in the loader's PB and runs to the stock valve's P. That's how the dealer added valve on my Branson was done. Keeps all the stock parts in place and unmodified.

 

[Everhard]

I'm going to head out and look at the lines vs go by memory. (I installed the rear remote valve option myself years ago. )
I think it's a hard line that goes from the loader valve rearward to the rear remote valve so it's not as simple as taking it off and plumbing the new valve in there. But I'll go confirm that as I could be "full of it".

E.

 

[Everhard]

So yes it's a hard line that goes from the loader valve back to the remote/auxiliary valve at the rear. As such I don't see how to put my valve between the 2. (As much as I like that idea. )
I suppose technically I could completely remove that hard line, go directly from the loader valve to my new valve, and then run another new line to the in port on the remote/auxiliary valve.
But that raises lots of challenges as there's not much space at both ends of that hard line. (At the loader valve it comes off at a 90 to go back. ) not to mention figuring out what that threading is where it connects to the valve. I'll see if I can dig up info on the loader valve later on today.

E.

 

[Everhard]

Here's a drawing - shows the loader valve and the hard line that goes back to the remote valve. #6 is the remote valve



So as I see it the only way I could really do this would be to cut that hard line, then connect a line to it go to the new valve, then out that valve and connect to the other half of the hard line. I'd be tempted to try that if I got a second hard line to mess with. Plus then I'd have a stock hard line to use if needed.

In then meantime I think I'll do what I was originally considering - hooking the new 3 spool up to the quick connects from the rear remote. Yes it means I have 3 remotes not 4 but it's a quick setup. (and I'm getting this ready so I can control my snowblower so that needs to be going sooner than later!)

And then I can in my leisure figure out how to set it up as suggested between the loader and the remote valve.

E.

 

[Leejohn]

Maybe this drawing well help. This is not your valve, but most open centers work like this and it takes away back pressure and you shouldn't blow the spool orings.

 

[LouNY]

What you are proposing to do will work fine.
Your existing valve has the pressure in line from the loader and the output to your remotes,
the power beyond for your 3 point and the return to tank are most likely two ports cast into the valve body where it bolts to the tractor housing.

 

[Everhard]

Leejohn - Great diagram. That makes me realise if/when I do set up the new 3 spool between the loader valve and the remote valve I need to use the power beyond option and will have one line then going from that to the existing remote valve and another line I'll have to T into a return line somewhere. (There's the one coming off the loader valve.)

LouNY - Thanks - yes I think it's as you describe given when I hook the backhoe up to the existing remotes I have no issues and hooking the new 3 spool to the rear remotes should function exactly like the valve in the backhoe and have no issues. That was my main concern that I was missing something and that this wouldn't work.

Ideally it would be nice to set up the new 3 spool between the loader valve and the remote valve. As I said in my earlier post I think I'll do it the quick and easy way for now and then take my time to figure out how to plumb it between the existing valves later.