Confusee - 3rd function electric valve

[DraftHorse]

that is the exact stuff i just ordered. And i had just planned on putting the subplate in series with the PB line as well. i will probalby add a 2 station subplate and 2 more valves later on for rear functions. the the control area of the L3400 is already kinda cramped so i am choosing eletrical valves over mechanical so i can remote mount the actual valves and just have switches up in the operator area.

Let us know how it worked out and with pics. Where are you going to mount the switch ?

Peter

 

[Mahana79]

Let us know how it worked out and with pics. Where are you going to mount the switch ?

Peter

i am going to make a mount for it and attach it to the loader stick where i can actuate it with my thumb while operating the loader with out having to take my hand off the joystick. and with it plumbed in series with the powerbeyond i should be able to operater all three functions simultaniously but of course which ever function has the least resistance will get the most flow if i am understanding the definition of powerbeyond right.

 

[3RRL]

Ron,
To answer your question to Larry,
With your solenoid on the PB output of your loader valve, Can you grapple and raise-lower/curl at the same time? With them all three on the same valve, I can via the parallel galleries internal to the valve body, just like you can probably raise and curl at the same time. I think if you are raising/lowering or curling the bucket, you have no flow out the PB port(flow diverted to cylinders and return port) untill you stop these functions
Yes you can do all simultaneous movements. However, I have to "feather" my fel & bucket valve to do so.

 

[hill]

3RRL,

What'd you use for a switch in the grapple solenoid wiring.

I'm interested in making up a W.R. Long style switch in the joystick knob.

I use a knob from Eaton transmission shifters in large trucks that has two electrical switches built in to the knob in my truck to operate an exhaust brake and a 'two wheel low range' setup in my Dodge 2500 but that knob was on the order of $179. as best I recall - too expensive for tractor installs, IMO.

I figure if anyone has come up with something that works and isn't too pricey it'll be you.

 

[GuglioLS]

Are you looking for something like this?:
(Click on image for full size)


Or more complicated like this:


Larry

 

[DraftHorse]

Larry - Too Cool - I was trying to think of a joystick control that would allow me to fire my lasers and photon torpedos at my stuborn weeds !!!

 

[3RRL]

3RRL,

What'd you use for a switch in the grapple solenoid wiring.

I'm interested in making up a W.R. Long style switch in the joystick knob.

I use a knob from Eaton transmission shifters in large trucks that has two electrical switches built in to the knob in my truck to operate an exhaust brake and a 'two wheel low range' setup in my Dodge 2500 but that knob was on the order of $179. as best I recall - too expensive for tractor installs, IMO.

I figure if anyone has come up with something that works and isn't too pricey it'll be you.

I used this rocker switch that came with the WR Long valve and joystick handle. Not as fancy as Larry's but then whose is? He is always one step ahead of the game...I hate that guy.

 

[hill]

3RRL,
I saw in another thread that you'd bought the Long kit but didn't know that when I asked here.

I was looking for an alternative to the W.R. Long switch as to me that kit, and the switch kit alone are unneccessarily expensive.

What I'd like is a control that would allow for feathering the grapple much as my joystick allows such control of my bucket. The idea of a grapple that closes with a "crunch" and opens with a loud "clank" does not fit into my style of tractor operation. I like to finesse the movements of loader and hoe with such delicacy that little baby birds are not disturbed in their nests and crowds gather to marvel at my ability to remove raw eggs from the chicken coop with my backhoe, never even cracking a shell. ..

Wait.....how much of the joystick in your picture is provided by W.R. Long? I thought they only give the knob with switch for addition to existing joysticks but yours looks as if there's another switch in the ring.

 

[3RRL]

3RRL,
I saw in another thread that you'd bought the Long kit but didn't know that when I asked here.

I was looking for an alternative to the W.R. Long switch as to me that kit, and the switch kit alone are unneccessarily expensive.

What I'd like is a control that would allow for feathering the grapple much as my joystick allows such control of my bucket. The idea of a grapple that closes with a "crunch" and opens with a loud "clank" does not fit into my style of tractor operation. I like to finesse the movements of loader and hoe with such delicacy that little baby birds are not disturbed in their nests and crowds gather to marvel at my ability to remove raw eggs from the chicken coop with my backhoe, never even cracking a shell. ..

Wait.....how much of the joystick in your picture is provided by W.R. Long? I thought they only give the knob with switch for addition to existing joysticks but yours looks as if there's another switch in the ring.

Hill, a couple things...
First, the WR Long kit has the rocker switch in their joystick handle and tube, which slides over the existing joystick extension. It's all included. I took off the handle that came with the loader and put that on. Had I known better at the time, I could have bought a rocker switch or other switches to stick into my existing joystick handle. It had pockets for buttons and switches, but I did not know any better at the time.

Here it is and you can clearly see it had pockets to work with ...duh. I liked it a lot better than the WR Long handle.



The other issue about wanting to control the grapple like you describe is not available with an electric solenoid valve. They are either open full or closed. What some guys have done is use smaller diameter hose to slow the movement down. I you want the kind of control you say, you might consider a regular valve that can be "feathered". But that would be ungainly IMO. In reality, the switch is super easy to use.

On the other hand, I have no problems with the speed of the grapple closing or opening. I like the faster speed it moves using Ø3/8" hoses like I did. There is very little noise in reality. And in my world, after 200 hours of use, I have no need to use the soft clamp. Doubt that I ever will?

 

[kennyd]

The other issue about wanting to control the grapple like you describe is not available with an electric solenoid valve. They are either open full or closed. What some guys have done is use smaller diameter hose to slow the movement down. I you want the kind of control you say, you might consider a regular valve that can be "feathered". But that would be ungainly IMO. In reality, the switch is super easy to use.

Rob is correct, but I would like to add on other option to the mix...If you use an electric diverter, instead of the solenoid valve, than you can "feather" the grapple just as you would the curl on the bucket. Cost wise they are about the same $$$.

As for the switch on the joystick, well, your either gonna have to pay the piper or make your own...I paid $170 for mine from JD, it's for a 110TLB and I fell in love with the way it felt and whipped out the CC in a week moment-sometimes I have all the will power of a heroin addict