Consensus On A Good Welder

[wroughtn_harv]

We get lucky on occasion.

What happens when you're welding is it's a whole body experience sometimes. You'll react to something before it happens and it's only afterwards you'll be able to understand it was the sound that caused you to modify your technique for a minute.

I don't know how many times I've had a hot dingleberry land on skin and not flinch until after the pass is complete. Where normally I'd be climbing out of my skin to get away from the pain and stink.

One thing I've noticed that I do that might help some folks. I'll be watching a newbie weld and they're waving that arc around like the last bus out of town is closing it's door and they're fifty feet down the block. I've picked up on that I don't move it that fast. It's like Don pointed out that knowing what and or when it will pass the point of saving it gives me confidence.

Of course that knowledge really only comes from blowing it repeatedly and often until it finally sinks in when to move and how much.

It's always a challenge. Sometimes a puddle will hit a spot where one has to change from pushing and start pulling. Or where pulling it along doesn't work and one needs to get behind it and push a bit.

I just consider myself lucky in that I get to do it.

 

[Zoomie]

Setup of the parts to be welded is one aspect that hasn't really been mentioned but one that makes doing a good weld easier.

I've found that uneven gaps between the parts, or not using a tack weld to maintain a uniform gap, can make welding much more difficult and strenuous than it needs to be.

 

[horseman1]

Thanks Gary for the warm welcome. I'm an OK welder, but no expert. I can only get welds at 1/4" to pass destructive testing with my Hobart 175. I need some more practice to be able to safely weld anything thicker like Mad does. I am moving up in the tractor ranks from several years with a garden tractor (looking to buy a CUT with a FEL) and have made many attachments for the GT. I've been admiring all the fine work done by the members here and am looking forward to making my own stuff for the CUT.

Kurt

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm an OK welder, but no expert. I can only get welds at 1/4" to pass destructive testing with my Hobart 175. I need some more practice to be able to safely weld anything thicker like Mad does. )</font>

Very smart move horseman1.

I hate to tell you how much welding wire, C25 and scrap I have wasted trying to find the optimum settings and technique on my MM175 in order to weld 3/8" and 1/2" steel. Practice, practice, practice. And have fun at the same time!!

 

[Lazy]

Hi
Check with your local college they surplus out equipment all the time. We turned in sealed bids on 3 L-tek migmaster250 welding machine and got 2 of the 3 for $350.00 each. they will put you on their mailing list to be notified every time they have a sealed bid auction. L-tek was bought by ESAB here is a pic of the esab mig master welder the only difference is the color and name.
I might add it des a super job.

Charlie

 

[RichT]

I'll join the chorus for the MM175 or Hobart equivalent. I learned to weld on a smaller MM135, nice 120v rig but not too good above 1/4in steel. Getting my tractor and building toothbars, 3PH adaptors, et al., caused me to need a bigger rig. The MM175 does well up to the 3/8in range with flux core, but can also handle light gauge autobody work which I also do (with the gas attachment). Very versatile. Can't go wrong with either 175. Practice practice practice.

 

[jim_wilson]

You didn't say how much you were looking to spend but I bought an HTP 160 220V Mig welder years ago and did quite a bit of auto body work with it and the thing works great. They are well built ( see http://www.htpweld.com/ ) - much better than the junk you find at home centers. I would consider them a " real welder" right up there with Miller or Hobart. I also bought a Miller EconoTig and that is also a great piece of equipment. I was ( and still am) on a budget and these two pieces of equipment were the best values I could find at the time for welders that would do what I wanted to do and were qood quality but did not cost " professional" prices.

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Well, I guess I'd have to say a good one is one that you get from your kid for your birthday! My son gave me a Hobart Handler 125 with the mig kit! (And a bit on the lowered voice side...also for fathersday and Christmas!) It's a real kick! Still using the flux 030 but I'm not doing 1/4" stuff. It does 3/16 in a snap! Really pleased!! (Both with the welder and my son!!!)

 

[welder]

I have read manny post on how good the gmaw(MIG) welding process is it has been around for manny years and is a good process for sheat metal but is not a good process for the ameture welder puting chiritical equipment togethere (Short arc is a cold process and does not have the penetrating effect of Smaw or fcaw(stick&flux core) so if you are a ameture be careful a bad weld can get you hurt, I have been welding for a living for 30 years, now a welding inspector my suggestion stick with stick welding process using E 7018 electrode on chitirital jobs , flux core is much better penetrator than the short arc and just about as easy, so be careful in your choices

 

[MMM]

I've got an 250AC140/DC stick and 150amp mig. I rarely use the mig. Seems I need to drag or drive everything in the shop to use it with decent results and it's useless on thicker materials in my judgement Try welding in tight spots with wire feed- it's futile. Also stick allows welding more types of materials(cast, babbit,al, mild , ss or tensilr steel on & on)with the change of a rod.