Continental Z134 starting problem

[The kid]

Use your camera extensively. It will aid you on reassembling. The old saying about pictures is true. The problem with the carb could exist in several places. It will need to be stripped down to basics and gone over carefully. One passage could be causing the problem. Some of the cleaning you will do without the manual. The manual may tell how to set the jets, but to clean passages it does not. You need to make sure the float is not sticking or has a hole in it. Upon final assembly and reconnecting the fuel line. I would buy a new rigid line and bend it so it's as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible. I noticed yours very close to the manifold. The manifold gets very hot under load and a fuel filled line very close can spell periodic vapor lock. If you sediment bowl shows a lot of age, it might be a good time to swap that as well. If it where me, i'd drain the fuel and do a good inspection inside the tank too. Originally there where no fuel filter other than the micro screen inside the sediment bowl. That's why you should examine that bowl closely to see if it has any varnish buildup that hender it's filtering ability. The early sediment bowls actually had a reserve built in which required one to open the screw all the way.

Make sure the linkage is opening the butterfly in conjunction with the throttle linkage . Running kind of smooth with the choke somewhat closed would indicate running lean as already mentioned. Using both carb cleaner with the straw tube and a can of air with straw will make short work of clearing passages.

 

[Cromagnum]

I was planning on cleaning sediment bowl, and checking its condition. My overall intention is to make the tractor in decent running condition for the wintertime.

I have a friend who will assist in the Carb rebuild, he has more experience doing that than I have. I have found a few websites with good information relating to a rebuild: Johns Old Iron has color pictures, and L36 has an older 21 page pdf to download. Just waiting for the rebuild kit. Given how hard it was to yank it out with the loader et al in the way, I would rather give it a thorough cleaning and rebuilding.

Speaking of hot manifolds, is there anything I can wrap the metal fuel line with to insulate it, such that the insulation is rated for direct contact if it accidentally touched? This might reduce the vapor lock probability?
Related, I see a problem where the right loader hydraulic hose has some outer damage from being in proximity to the manifold. I think that hose is a replacement hose based on the connection types.

 

[The kid]

Most speed shops and many auto parts can get you some high temp wrap. They use it to wrap headers. They also make a flameproof sock that they use on spark .plug wires would would be perfect for fuel lines or hydraulic lines. Not all the box auto parts carry it, but it can be acquired. Chicken tie the end furthest away from the heat source to prevent movement. I don't know if either would actually lessen radiant heat though, but should help insulate from burning thru.

 

[Cromagnum]

So, I cleaned the fuel sediment bowl, it looks cleaner now. The screen had no holes. Mineral spirits is my cleaner of choice.

A friend rebuilt the carbourater, and to install it, I had to cannibalize a 1/2" wrench to tighten the left nut. It's just a little more than 4" long after sawzalling it. Tight clearance with the exhaust manifold/pipe.

I bought adhesive silver heat tape (up to 1500F degree) at PepBoys and used that on the hydraulic hose. Have to see if that lasts.

 

[Cromagnum]

Then I changed the oil yesterday. The old oil flowed out, only a few tiny lumps out with the oil.

I decided to change to spin on filter. So I removed the OEM metal housing and filter. There was a small spooge of soft black sludge at the base of the filter housing, and the filter indent on the block. It might have been congealed carbon?

The spin on kit had no instructions, and the metal plate had 5 holes on one side, in a half moon shape. It seemed reasonable to place the holes on the top side, as the hole in the block was on the top as well. Does anyone have experience on the hole placement?

(The main hole is through the hollow connection double male bolt into the filter.)

 

[The kid]

If it where me, I'd wrap that area of the exhaust pipe with insulating header wrap. I'd like to see a wide angle of that area as to what that hydraulic line is going to.

 

[Cromagnum]

Here are some wider angles.

It's the right side hydraulic line to the bottom of the loader lift cylinder. The line has a T connection that rests on the steering arm. The branch of the T crosses the front of the transmission under the power steering box to connect to the left side lift cylinder.

 

[The kid]

If that was my tractor, i'd replumb it. Get it the heck away from that exhaust pipe. Hydraulic fluid is flammable at a high enough temp. -kid

 

[Cromagnum]

I will replumb it, when the household budget becomes plumb. I understand the heat/fire/fluid problem, back during my volunteer fireman days.

In the meantime, I added some twisty bungee straps to keep the line away from the exhaust. It's now kept 3" away, secured to the cylinder. That plus the reflective tape might last a short while.

I still have to work on a few more areas, including the brakes. Getting ready for the winter is the goal.

 

[Ranchero50]

I'd look into flipping the cylinder and getting a longer hose.

Another option is to wrap some 1" insulation around the pipe and cover that with some thin sheet metal and hose clamp it in place.