Continental Z134 starting problem

[Mike476]

Nice looking 2135 !

45 degree elbows, longer hyd hose or flip the cylinder, shouldn't be too expensive to fix I wouldn't expect.

Couple of questions for you if you don't mind;

1. How did you make out with your spin on kit, thinking of doing the same with mine. My only concern is I use it in the bush quite a bit and would have to be watchful not to puncture it, not a big deal though.

2. You said you're looking to get it ready for winter, have you looked at your hyd fluid for moisture ingress and possible filter contamination. It will slow you down in a hurry on a cold winter's morn', been there.

Good luck and have fun with getting it where you feel it needs to be for winter.

 

[Cromagnum]

Mike,

1) The spin on kit was easy, the only question that I wasn't sure of, whether to align the adapter plate holes towards the top, thus close to inline with the fluid hole, or at the bottom, for drainage. I chose to align it to the top, for best apparent flow. Haven't had any issues with the oil, but based on the age, I am keeping a close eye on the oil.

2) I swapped out the Hyd oil in the reservoir, as well as put in a new Hyd filter and cleaned a lil sludged in the bottom of that canister. The should reduce the water in the oil. It was brown on removal, but not as brown as the transmission fluid was.
(Side note, why was there never a rubber seal with the Transmission fluid fill cap? The parts manual does not call one out on the 6x6 transmission drawing)


As for the Hyd system, on this Sunday I blew the main line at the front mounted loader Hyd pump, the high pressure hose connected to the pump popped and spurted. I had just started the tractor up, and was getting ready to lift up and move forward. The burst was directly forward, with a direct hit to the back of the bucket. A quick shutdown cut the oil loss to less than a gallon.
So this opens the budget to get some new hoses. This will include the aforementioned hose near the exhaust manifold. I am now searching for a vendor for hoses near me. I have the one burst one, and I think 8 of the other hoses show signs of aging. Of those 8, 2 are immediate candidates, the worst has rusting metal wrap visible through rubber cracking. That's near the dump cylinder.

While I'm doing that, the FEL Dump cylinders are sagging. I keep having to re adjust when using the tractor, and when playing with some dirt moving, the bucket wouldn't hold itself still. So the dump cylinders need a rebuild

So this leads to the next issue. How do you figure which part number cylinders on the MF200 Loader they really are?
After cleaning and peering at the the cylinders in situ, I find they are Cessna cylinders (made in USA) with Cessna part numbers. The Massey numbers are not there. The Massey parts book online gives multiple flavors of Massey part numbers, with no direct correlation to the Cessna numbers. I think 41039-388 is the Cessna Dump cylinder number, or at least that's what the casting number looks like.

 

[Mike476]

(Side note, why was there never a rubber seal with the Transmission fluid fill cap? The parts manual does not call one out on the 6x6 transmission drawing)

I wondered the same thing when I first got mine. Once I realized the boots at the base of my shift levers and boot for the draft control spring were rotten I came to appreciate where the water was coming from in a hurry.

Was wondering how you made out with the rest of your hydraulic woes, hopefully you were able to find someone local to manufacture the hoses you need.

 

[Cromagnum]

I did get 3 hoses made by Baum Hydraulics in Nebraska. With shipping, just over $20 each.

I just had to figure out the precise end types. I messed up on one, but got a couple fittings at Tractor Supply to make the connection.

So, now the loader lift cylinder has a new hose, with about 5" separated from the exhaust.

 

[Cromagnum]

I also fixed the 3 point adjustment lever/gear. Needed some elbow grease and new grease. I suspect the old grease had dried out, and made it too stiff.

 

[Cromagnum]

Then, I added LED lights and new blinkers.

I added some regular switches to control the lights.
And I added a marine grade USB port for charging cell phone.

 

[Cromagnum]

Finally, I moved snow in the big storm of February.

It took awhile to clear the driveway, the slush under the 14" made traction difficult, even with the chains on the Ag tires.

 

[Cromagnum]

Today, cleared more snow from the driveway, we got 8" near DC.

During this, the loader started feeling spongey. I looked around, and saw the right hand loader frame arm had broke loose in its connection to the rear axle.

It's the weld (from previous user), and the wear and tear sheared the weld. So I presume it did not have enough penetration, plus add some rust. I could still use the loader, but just kept it easy on the stress and movement. The right side is now only held by the 2 front bolts on the grille frame.

I also see the need to add some small plates to reinforce the joints, to prevent bending moment stress at the joint.
That way the multiple welds will reinforce each other.

Maybe I should change the rear connection to bolted, to make it possible to remove without pulling the ROPS.
It currently welded to the ROPS connection plates.